6-weeks into SWG conversion - balancing questions

[NYAVGUY]

Hi,

I am 6-weeks into a SWG conversion. I have spent the first couple weeks playing with filter run-time and SWG percentage. I had it at 7-hours run time at 35%, with FC staying between 4-6. We had a hot week two weeks ago and got some algea and FC dropped to 3 when I tested. I have since raised it to 8-hours per day and 40%. I now have FC at 8.0 after a week of that (but it was cooler).

PH-7.8
FC-8
CC-0
CH-250
TA-70
CYA-50-60

Question:
I believe I need to lower the PH. I know i should be using Muriatic acid, but I still have some dry acid, so I figure I will use that up and then switch. I also believe I need to raise the CYA (was at 70 when I converted, and has dropped with rain and water additions).

I see some people need to do weekly acid additions with SWG pools, and some people never do. I would prefer not to do this. Do I need to add Borates to accomplish the lower maintenance of the PH?

Also, I follow the pool school methods with two exceptions (full disclosure). I use non-chlorine shock when needed to remove the combined chloramines instead of super-chlorinating. It works and I don't mind spending the money since it is easy. I also control the phosphates in the pool (which Pentair does reccomend) with natural chemistry products.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Your numbers are okay!

Using non-chlorine shock will skew your test results for CCs.

As long as you have enough FC (which you certainly do) in the water phosphate removers are a waste of money. But you figure it is a little insurance.... <shrug> ok. Your cash

 

[Jimrahbe]

I suggest you let you pH sit at 7.8 for as long as it does. If it goes up then you can reduce it. Two things that can contribute to raising pH are your SWG and your bubblers (or any other aerating water features).

When my pH goes above 7.8, I normally follow the TFP protocol and add Muriatic Acid to reduce pH down to about 7.1 and then measure the TA level. I then turn on a water feature which provides aeration. I retest pH every few hours and when pH goes up to 7.4 or 7.5, I repeat the process, over and over, until the TA drops to 55 or 60. My pH will then drift back to about 7.8 and stay that way for a while. Depending on the time of the year, anywhere between several weeks to a couple of months or more.

I never shock or super-chlorinate. I can do this, and so can you, if you will just keep your FC level above your minimum required level. Chlorine CYA Chart

Jim R.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Jimrahbe

I agree with you (NYAVGUY) on adding some stabilizer to get that CYA up closer to 70-80.
IMHO I'd also do the muratic to lower the pH. 7.8 is OK, I just like mine down near the low limit.

 

[mgmoore7]

This chart should help you determine the right pump run time and SWG %.