Changing Filter Valve...thingy on top of the filter tank

[MJuric]

So we moved a couple of weeks ago into a house with a pool. I'm still working to get my head around all the chemical stuff but am not going to start asking question about that until I have a better handle on it.

Before we bought the house we had the pool inspected. Also after we had "Pool school" from the same place that did the inspection. First AFTER closing and AFTER the inspection the same company starts finding all these things wrong, one of which was that the valve on top of the sand tank had the pressure gage essentially JB welded and another area of the valve also puttied up. He suggested we replace...would have been nice to know before closing.

My question is that a quick glance tells me this is not a big issue, especially compared to the quote we were given. Looks to me that the entire valve is held to the tank with two screws holding a clamp that clamps to the head of the tank and then the two unions on the pipes for inlet and outlet. Is this a bigger job then that? Am I missing something?

Also I have backwashed the filter a couple times allowing the site filter to run clear. However when I turn the valve back and start running the pump again I can see a bunch of gunk coming out of the jets going into the pool...seems like a bad thing but I have no idea what would cause it.

Final question. Again still wrapping my head around the chemicals and essentially found that what the "Pool guy" told is is nearly exactly the opposite of what I'm reading here and other places but am I causing any "Non correctable" damage by "Fudging" my way thru what's left of our short season, closing the pool and starting off fresh next year? I need to get several things done including new valve, new test kit, possible a automatic sweeper and then do some more studying on chemicals, testing etc etc. With the move, school starting and since I'm up north...fall coming...trees are dropping leaves already...I just didn't want to spend the time, effort and money to get the pool squared away only to have to close it. It's usable, a bit cloudy with the occasional green tint at this point and with everything going on that's fine with me...a little bit of goo doesn't bother me and the kid certainly doesn't care

Thanks for any help

~Matt

 

[JVTrain]

First question: Replacing a top mount multiport valve, which is what you're talking about is VERY easy if there are already threaded unions installed on the inlet and outlet lines on the MPV. Can be done in 30 minutes and all you'll need is a wrench and/or screw driver to remove the lower clamp.

Second question: After backwashing, you always want to turn the valve to Rinse for 30 seconds to a minute before putting back on Filter. Backwash reverses flow through the filter. Rinse is normal flow, but sends the water out the waste line, removing any loosened debris out the waste line while water is flowing in the normal filtration direction. Doing the Backwash -> Rinse -> Filter cycle will prevent debris from going into pool after backwashing. Remember to always shut the pump off before moving the multiport valve position.

If you're throwing in the towel for the season, at least get a 3-way test kit and maintain FC through the fall, preferably using just bleach/liquid chlorine. Your best bet is to actually get a good test kit (TF-100 is the best on the market) and tackle the pool. You'll know the best course of action and if you can close the pool clean this fall, the spring will be a breeze. The cleaner and colder the water is when you close, the better it will be in the spring.

 

[MJuric]

Excellent.

Valve looked easy enough but didn't want to pop it off to find some complex working mechanism to deal with.

Rinsing, makes sense, I'll do that next time.

I guess I can go ahead and order the new kit and get the water to best possible place I can this fall. I've been testing regularly and keeping levels where I *think* they should be but since my current kit does not do CYA I'm guessing. That being said during "Pool School" the guy tested my CYA at 40-50 and I've been going with that. For whatever reason it just doesn't seem to be very clear and I'm continually getting a lot of build up on the bottom so clearly I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks for the help,

~Matt

 

[JesseSchmidt]

If you think the CYA is 40-50, dose using 50. It may be a tiny bit high on FC but not horribly so. You should probably SLAM the pool but that's not possible without a good test kit. You just can't accurately test your FC level up high enough with the cheap OTO chlorine tests you can get at any big box store.

The way I explained it to my wife(talking about the green diving pool at the Olympics) is that the algae in the pool isn't the problem, a little gross but nothing to detrimental, it's the reason the algae started growing. There isn't enough chlorine in the pool to keep it sanitized if there is green in the pool. Which means (here comes the gross part) that when you kid that didn't wipe their rear too well gets into the water, nothing is killing off those fecal coliforms fast enough to keep them from getting into everyones eyes, ears, nose and mouth. Hand, foot and mouth or pink eye or ear infection or urinary tract infection will not be fine with you when it happens.

I'm not trying to scare you, just pointing out what happens in an un-sanitized pool! Suggestion is to get a good kit and take care of your pool. It won't cost that much (test kit is the biggest part) and you'll get to enjoy the pool for the last few weeks of the season without getting anyone sick in the process.

Also, check out the READ THIS before you Post article to see how to add your pool information to your signature. It helps us to know what you have when diagnosing issues.

 

[MJuric]

Also, check out the READ THIS before you Post article to see how to add your pool information to your signature.

Phosphate - Doesn't matter, despite pool store claims otherwise.

Too funny, can't tell you how many times the pool guy mentioned this during their "Pool school". "Do you live near any farmers fields?" "Make sure you only fertilize your lawn ONLY with pellets so there's no over spray". Didn't make any sense to me because I figured if the chemical levels where right nothing should be growing in there but I just assumed some sort of magical chemical reaction I was unaware of...after all I'm not a pool guy or a chemist

~Matt

 

[Swampwoman]

Maurice, welcome to TFP!
I just want to add a +1 on JV Train's comment that closing clean and with the learning curve behind you will make for a much nicer season next year, so its worth doing if you're able Check out TFTestkits.net for one of the kits.

In our neck of the woods (I'm in West Mi) the best way to open clean is to close only when the water is below 60 - usually more like October if you've heated the pool - and open early before the water gets to 60 again -- I open the 3rd week in April. By closing and opening cold, you entirely avoid fighting algae.

Re: your water not sparkly -- cloudy or dull water can be nascent algae trying to get a foothold, but it might also be that you're not running the filter enough.

Raise your FC a bit whie awaiting a kit and run your filter 24/7 for a few days and tell us if that makes a difference

Cheers to clear!