Just want to introduce myself and ask what I need to do first

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I don't know what the "Pool School" is that you are planning to pay for but one of the local pool stores runs their "Pool School" every spring and I would say it more closely resembled a time share sales pitch than anything resembling school. They had vendors in to tell about all the new products and why you should use their junk in your pool. I found out later that people in the know only go for the giveaways and discounted prices on products. Now I have been "Pool School"ed!

If it is a home visit to go over your equipment and show you how to operate it and take care of the pool (take any chemistry advice with a grain shaker of salt), that might not be a bad thing. Ask them any questions about the equipment but please come back here and get advice before buying anything they may try to sell you. It might be sound advice but chances are pretty high that it's just a dig for your wallet.

Congratulations on the house and welcome!
 
Lol At throwing bottle over fence. Got keys to house. Going over this morning, but raining heavily. Supposed to rain for next 4 days. Can I get accurate readings with test kit while raining? If not, should I go ahead and add a gallon of liquid Chlorine? Correction to size of Pool. Found paper work from Pool Builder. Pool is 18,200 Gallons. Thanks for help
jeffchap said:
Remove the cap from one of those jugs and chuck it over the fence into the pool?
Click to expand...
 
BBB,

Yes, you can take reading when it is raining. Whether it is raining or not you need to take the sample from about as far down as your arm will reach. I have a small bottle that I use and put it in the pool upside-down, so water can't get in, and then turn it over to fill with water.

I thought 8K gallons was a little small for a Southlake pool. That is more likely the size of an average Spa in that neighborhood. :p

You can't really hurt anything by adding a gallon of bleach.

Jim R.
 
Okay, Test results are in:

FC-17.5-Took 35 drops of R0871-looks really high.
CC- 1
TC-18.5
CH-575
TA-40
CYA- 60-70

I was very careful with testing. took sample from deep end, over elbow deep. Turned vile over only when at depth to fill with water. Took pictures, but will have to post tomorrow. Have to go to work. Quick test of Chlorine/ PH with K1000 showed deep amber color on Chlorine-Off chart high. PH appeared by color to be 7.2. What is my next step? Did I miss anything. Will respond tonight when I get home. Thanks for help!!!
 
You'll want to get your FC levels a bit higher - 24 to 28ppm - with a CYA of 60/70 ppm. And keep them there until the pool clears.

I know it sounds high - but the CYA in your water sequesters most of the active chlorine. 28ppm FC with 70ppm CYA leaves you with about 0.3ppm HOCL (active chlorine) in the water. The municipal water supply has about 0.5ppm HOCL in the water (or more)

This concept is difficult for newcomers to get over.

EDIT - Oh shoot - I thought you were shocking. It doesn't look like you are - so you can let the FC levels drop to within the proper range. Sorry about that.
 
BBB,

Next thing we need are pictures of your equipment pad. I suspect you have a chlorine tablet feeder that is full of chlorine tablets. That would be one reason your FC & CYA are high. For now, you won't need to add any more chlorine.

As this was your first test, I would not worry about the CC level of 1. I suspect a testing error. You have to test for CC immediately after testing for FC or it will throw the number off.

I also would not worry about pH as it can't be reliably tested when FC is over 10.

Once we see the pics, we can provide more instructions.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
BBB,

OK, here is a quick rundown on what I believe you have.

1. A great looking backyard and a cute dog... :cool:
2. All Hayward Equipment
3. Cartridge Filter
4. The Yellowish / Clear tube is a tablet chorine feeder.
5. I have no idea what the Bluish/Pink tube is. I'm sure others will know..
6. The inputs to your main pump is on the bottom row of valves. Looking at your picture from left to right..
a. Water from the SPA - in closed/off position. This is an automated valve.
b. Water from the Skimmer (Labeled #2) - open or on.
c. Water from the another Skimmer (Labeled #3) - open or on
d. Water from the Main Drain (no valve) open or on.
7. The Pump pulls water from the pool/spa (currently just the pool) and pushes it through the filter (why the pressure gage shows 20 psi)
8. Out of the filter and into the heater
9. Out of the heater through unknown pink thing.. and into the top set of return valves. (going from left to right)
a. Water returning to the Spa (Currently closed or off) Another automated valve)
b. thru the Tab holder..
c. Water to the pool returns (currently set at about 50% open)
d. Water going to the Spa for spillover currently set to about 50% open)
10. The pump with the small hose attached powers your pressure side pool cleaner

So, now is the time to decide if you want to follow the TFP regiment of maintaining your pool with Bleach/Chlorine or if you want to continue using 3" tabs which will just keep increasing your CYA in an never ending circle.

If you decide to go with TFP, the first thing you need to do is remove any tablets that are still in the feeder.

As a side note.. your pool would be perfect for a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. (SWCG)

More later..

Jim R.
 
BBB,

After you remove the tablets, for the first couple of days you should test the chlorine level a couple of times a day, just to give you a feel of how it works.

The key to the FTP way is to make sure that your Chlorine never drops below the minimum level for your CYA. You say your CYA is 70 so the minimum you ever want you FC to be is 5. Since that is the minimum, you really need to keep your FC at 9 ppm, this is called your "target level". Here is the Chlorine CYA Chart

I suggest you retest your CYA as we have had a lot of rain lately, which may have reduced it a little and because the test requires bright sunlight which we have not had in the last 40 days and 40 nights... :cool:

Please provide another round of test results every day for the next few days so we can see where we are and where we need to go. To be able to compare apples to apples, it would be best (for now) to take your readings at about the same time each day.

some other thoughts, not necessary in any coherent order.....

1. Remember to check and empty the Skimmer baskets (White plastic covers in your deck)
2. Suggest you plan to clean your filter cartridges or have someone else do it, so that you can have a clean "baseline pressure" of your filter. (No major rush)
3. Next time you are at the pool store pick up a tube of "Pool Lube" which you will need to grease up any O-Rings that need it, such as the giant O-Ring on your filter or the smaller O-Ring on your pump basket lid.
4. Suggest you clean the pump basket strainer. Again, no rush unless it is really dirty/full.
5. The instructions on the Automation system seem pretty straight forward..
6. Long term, I'd look at dumping the pressure side cleaner and going with robot.
7. Long term, you might be thinking about replacing your single speed (Money eating) pump with a VS pump.
8. The "Bell" on top of the long pipe, is the air blower for your Spa.
9. Suggest you play with the valves and buttons and see what is what.. have fun, you can't hurt anything. And you can always reset it to what you pictures show.

Jim R.
 
Wow Jim! Thank you so much. Must of taken along time to type up this comprehensive list. I will turn off Chlorinator. I saw a on/off switch at base of tube. I will test tomorrow and post test results to see what needs to be done next. Things at work should settle down soon, so I can give pool and yard more attention. As you can see by pictures, previous owner stopped watering lawn and Stopped trimming bushes. Luckily, it rained. He was a difficult seller. I will whip the yard and pool into shape soon. After I turn off Chlorinator. Do I need to close any valves to open and remove tablets.?
 

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BBB,

In the long run, if you just leave the tab chlorinator alone, you will be fine. Just don't put anymore in.

Do you still plan to have someone come out and do a "Pool School" with you? If so, since I'm sure you have a ton of other stuff to do with just moving in, then I suggest we don't do anything mechanical until you've had the school.

Chemical wise, you still need to be testing every day (for awhile) so we both can understand what your pool needs. Testing at the about same time each day will allow us to compare apples to apples.

When you are ready, send us the results from your next round of tests.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Test results for today:

FC-15
CC-1
TC-16
CH-375
TA-40
CYA-70

Forgot to test PH. Will test tomorrow. Took first swim today after mowing lawn. It was chilly, 79 degree water, but glorious!
Ill post again tomorrow with new test results. Do I need to do full test again or just FC and PH?
 
BBBwannabe said:
Test results for today:

FC-15
CC-1
TC-16
CH-375
TA-40
CYA-70


Forgot to test PH. Will test tomorrow. Took first swim today after mowing lawn. It was chilly, 79 degree water, but glorious!
Ill post again tomorrow with new test results. Do I need to do full test again or just FC and PH?
Click to expand...

FC
CC
pH

The only thing that worries me at all is the CC. In theory that should be zero, maybe .5.. Could be just the way you are testing.

If you can, I'd like you to do an OCLT.. This is where you take an FC reading after it is dark and then again in the morning before the sun comes up. If the two readings the same or very close then nothing is in your pool eating your chlorine. The tab feeder must be off and, if you had a SWG, it should be off also. Basically sunlight consumes chlorine, so you run the test at night to take the sunlight out of the equation.

Good luck with Pool School tomorrow..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
BBB,

At this point you need to do nothing... Everything looks great!!! Just keep checking the FC and pH. Every day or so.

Keep in mind that with an CYA of 70 you will need to keep your FC at a minimum of 5 ppm. Since FC gets burned off during the day, you should use 8 ppm as your target.

Water here is not really too expensive, so it might make sense to replace some of your pool water to get your CYA down, unless you plan to install a SWG.

How was your mechanical pool school? Are your ready to clean your filter? :gone:

Jim R.
 
I have a set of links I put together for new pool owners. You have seen some of them but I do not want to take a chance of leaving any out so here they all are:

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

I LOVE your backyard (and doggy)! No wonder your bought it! NICE!

:kim:
 
Pool school was informative. Learned how to use Aqua link system. Glad I went through it. Showed me how to clean filter. which I am going to do next.
Jimrahbe said:
BBB,

At this point you need to do nothing... Everything looks great!!! Just keep checking the FC and pH. Every day or so.

Keep in mind that with an CYA of 70 you will need to keep your FC at a minimum of 5 ppm. Since FC gets burned off during the day, you should use 8 ppm as your target.

Water here is not really too expensive, so it might make sense to replace some of your pool water to get your CYA down, unless you plan to install a SWG.

How was your mechanical pool school? Are your ready to clean your filter? :gone:

Jim R.
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Kim. she is a Boston Terrier. Very sweet and extremely smart. loves to follow me around. Jim has been very helpful and has taken me under his wing. I feel like I am in good hands. Appreciate everyone's help!
kimkats said:
I have a set of links I put together for new pool owners. You have seen some of them but I do not want to take a chance of leaving any out so here they all are:

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

I LOVE your backyard (and doggy)! No wonder your bought it! NICE!

:kim:
Click to expand...
 
Tested water this morning.
FC-11.5
CC-0
TC-11.5
CH-475
TA-50
CYA-55 ( I think I am getting better with this test the more I do)
PH-7.2

Brushed pool for first time, after testing water. Made the pool water a little cloudy. Hope this is normal. Plan to clean cartridge filters in a few days. Seems easy after pool school. Let me know if there is anything I need to do? Thanks.
 
BBB,

Things look ok to me. Are there tabs still left in your chlorinator?

Have you been running your pool cleaner, if not you need to make sure it runs two or three times a week.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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