I have been running my own home-built chlorinator that works on a similar principle to the Liquidator (The Liquidator is not available in Australia)
My Chlorinator is based on a 'Wheelie' (Garbage) HDPE 120 litre bin. I have modified float valves to use with the chlorinator, but like some users of the Liquidator I find the systems cakes up with a salt like layer. This means the valves sometimes do not seal, & the filter drains down due to air entering when the pump stops.
I have ordered a motorised ball valve that I will try to use as a stop when the pump stops. The valve is 304 stainless, that operates off 12v. The valve opens with 12v application, then automatically shuts off when the power is removed. I will start by fitting one to the tank fill line so it operates once the pump starts. If that is successful, I will remove the float valve on the tank outlet & fit a delay start to that motorised valve, as well as a switch on the tank to close the valve (by removing power to the valve) if the tank level falls below a set level.
If these motorised valves are successful, I might be able to get around the build-up causing issues.
My chlorinator is hooked up with 1/2" silicon lined tube. I adjust the flow with a clamp on the tubing that goes to the suction side of the pump. This system has been working for about 5 years! One issue that has caused problems is the use of irrigation fittings to connect the system up. The chlorine eats the plastic so the fittings only last about 3 years.
I also run a Copper/Silver Ioniser. I also do not use any Chlorine stabiliser (cyanuric acid). My pool is covered with shadecloth which keeps the leaves out of the pool, & also reduces chlorine loss due to the sunlight. I run the pump off the mains utilising power that would be exported from my Solar PV system.