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Thread: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

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    Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    Where to start. This year I decided to try a saltwater pool. I have a 18'x48" above ground circular pool. I bought an intex 3,000 GPH sand filter pump and an Intex SWG EC7110. I added the salt, made sure the water levels were correct. Salt is at 3,000ppm. I ran the ionizer and pump for a few days. I set it to 8 hours per day. We left for vacation. The SWG threw the error 92 low salt, in about 3 days. By the time we got home the pool was green. I shocked the pool and got it back to normal. Ran the pump 8hrs/day. No chlorine but the titanium plates would have white scales on them very thick every 3 days so I soaked them in vinegar and repeated. No chlorine, scaled up in 3 days. I would have to shock the pool every 3-5 days to keep it from turning. I did this for about a month. I called Intex, they replaced the titanium plates (after sending me the wrong one) finally got the correct one. Installed it, same thing, no chlorine, scaled up, have to shock. They then said they would send me the control panel for me to put on it..I raised cain and said I'm not an Intex service man and I'm not parting a brand new pump..They eventually send a brand new SWG. I put it in a week ago. Same problem..

    I'm thinking maybe its me? The salt? What could it be? The pool has been clear (except for the stained liner from vacation) but the water itself is crystal clear from shocking. Surely I didn't get two bad generators...Is my pump to fast for my pool and SWG? The SWG says up to 3,000 GPH and that is what my pump is. I wanted to get a strong pump to keep it clean. How long should the pool take to get some detectable chlorine running the pump and SWG for 24 hours? I have no idea...Any suggestions are much appreciated.

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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    I see 3 possible issues. First, the EC7110 only produces 5 g/hr of chlorine. 8 hours/day may not be long enough for the size of your pool. I have an EC8110 (12 g/hr) and a smaller pool, and I run mine longer than that.



    Secondly, what is the CYA level in your water? For a SWG, we recommend 70-80 ppm. CYA is necessary to protect your chlorine from being burned off by the sun faster than your SWG can make it.



    Third, scale on the plates will definitely hinder chlorine production. What is your pH? Mine tends to do that when the pH gets too high. If I keep it around 7.5, no scale.

    You'll need to get a good test kit like the TF-100 or K-2006 and take your own readings. We don't trust pool store testing and test strips are generally worthless. Reliable testing is the key to the TFP method.
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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    Thank you very much. How long do you suggest running the SWG? My CYA level is zero as I was told not to put in CYA until you get your chlorine level where you need it. I have also not been able to find any locally. I will look at getting a better testing strip. My PH has been a little high, but I began to get it down to 7.5 since reading this forum.

    One interesting thing is this. I shocked my pool the other day. Testing chlorine and it was high (around 8). I tested it the next day and it was 0 (without running the SWG, just running the filter). Should it drop that quick? Why would it? Would the stain around the edge of my liner have something to do with this? Lastly, what is the best method to get rid of that stain? (from when the pool turned while we were on vacation: it is around the edges on the seam of the liner).

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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    You need to get CYA in your water ASAP. Otherwise you will never be able to keep your FC level stable. Start by bringing it up to 30 ppm for now. You should be able to find CYA at any pool store, Wal Mart, Home Depot, etc. Then add chlorine in the form of liquid bleach to bring up your FC immediately.

    Until we get you stabilized, it's impossible to say how long you need to run your SWG. Keep turning it up until your FC stays above the minimum for your CYA, which would be 3 ppm for CYA at 30.

    Without any CYA in your water, it's possible that you could lose all your FC in one day due to sun burnoff. You could also have some algae beginning to grow that is consuming it.

    But without a good test kit, this is all guesswork. Please don't waste any money on test strips. You need to get one of the kits I recommended above that can measure CYA and FC/CC up to 50 ppm accurately. This is the key to the TFP method.
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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffchap View Post
    You need to get CYA in your water ASAP. Otherwise you will never be able to keep your FC level stable. Start by bringing it up to 30 ppm for now. You should be able to find CYA at any pool store, Wal Mart, Home Depot, etc. Then add chlorine in the form of liquid bleach to bring up your FC immediately.

    Until we get you stabilized, it's impossible to say how long you need to run your SWG. Keep turning it up until your FC stays above the minimum for your CYA, which would be 3 ppm for CYA at 30.

    Without any CYA in your water, it's possible that you could lose all your FC in one day due to sun burnoff. You could also have some algae beginning to grow that is consuming it.

    But without a good test kit, this is all guesswork. Please don't waste any money on test strips. You need to get one of the kits I recommended above that can measure CYA and FC/CC up to 50 ppm accurately. This is the key to the TFP method.
    Thanks again.
    To clarify, the EC7110 manual said to run it 8 hours a day for a 5,200 gallon pool. This is not enough? Should I be able to run the SWG for 24 hours and see a FC reading higher than 0? I have ran the pump for 2 days and had a FC of 0. With clear water (after shocking)Is that normal? Again this is my second SWG. Thank you much for your help.

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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    IMO, the order of importance is:

    Order test kit.
    CYA and FC in water. Forget about the SWG for now.
    Once you have the test kit treat it like a non-SWG pool for a couple of weeks.
    Once you have a handle on how to manually maintain your pool, start running the SWG for various lengths of time until you see it hold/raise FC.

    Also, you keep saying "shock" the pool. That means different things to different people. Is that a product purchased from a pool store? Is that a one time dosing of bleach? If so how do you know how much to add? When we have pool problems, we SLAM them Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain then maintain the proper amount of FC for our CYA.
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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bruce View Post
    IMO, the order of importance is:

    Order test kit.
    CYA and FC in water. Forget about the SWG for now.
    Once you have the test kit treat it like a non-SWG pool for a couple of weeks.
    Once you have a handle on how to manually maintain your pool, start running the SWG for various lengths of time until you see it hold/raise FC.

    Also, you keep saying "shock" the pool. That means different things to different people. Is that a product purchased from a pool store? Is that a one time dosing of bleach? If so how do you know how much to add? When we have pool problems, we SLAM them Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain then maintain the proper amount of FC for our CYA.
    This is the shock I use
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/HTH-Super-...l13=68&veh=sem

    So to clarify, the SWG will or will not raise the level of FC from zero if I run it constantly?

    Also, is this shock ok to use to get FC up or is there something else I should use?

    Is there a way to clean the stain off the liner?

    Thanks again!

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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    That is Cal-Hypo. In addition to FC it adds CH, which does not go away without water replacement.

    The SWG will raise FC if it is working properly. How much and how long it stays around is based on your pool size, CYA, etc.

    Here are a couple of articles that would be good to read.

    Pool School - Getting Started
    Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

    Please fill out your signature as described in the 1st article. Add 1/2 gallon of bleach a day with the pump running until your test kit arrives and post numbers and we can go from there.
    32K gallon Plaster - 1hp Hayward 2 speed Super Pump - Hayward S200 Sand Filter - TF100XL
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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    The SWG might eventually raise your FC to the desired level, but they generate chlorine very slowly and steadily. They are intended more to maintain the chlorine level once it has been reached. While you are waiting for your FC to rise, you can easily experience an algae outbreak. So use bleach, not that shock product, to get your chlorine to the proper starting point. Shock adds other things, calcium in the case of the one you posted, that we don't want in our pools.





    Furthermore, without CYA in your water, the sun may be burning off your chlorine faster than your SWG can make it. In my smaller pool, when I had the same sized SWG as you do, I was running it 14 hours/day with my CYA at 80 just to hold my FC steady.





    Knowing your CYA is the key to all of this. And we'll never know that accurately until you get a test kit.

    As for the stains, I've never had to deal with that. But I believe I've read here that you can try rubbing vitamin C tablets on them to remove them. Maybe someone with more experience with that will chime in here.
    25000 gallon free-form gunite
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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    Thank you all very much for the information. Is it safe to swim after adding bleach? If anyone knows a good method to clean the liner that would be great.

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    Re: Intex EC7110 No chlorine production

    It is safe to swim with FC up to shock level, which is 40% of the CYA level in your pool.

    The problem is, we don't know what your CYA level is. So no one can tell you what FC level is safe for your pool.

    As for the stains, did you try the vitamin C?
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