New pool and first time pool owner - understanding test results

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J

Johnsbd

0
Aug 1, 2016
35
Ponca City, Ok
We just put in a new pool. I've tested the water at a local supply store and ended up with $$chemicals to use. A friend told me about this site and so far it's been very helpful!

I purchased a recommended test kit and used it for the first time tonight.

Here are the results.

1.6ppm FC
8 ppm pH
150 TA
<30 CYA

I have a big bucket of trichlo to use up for the chlorine. If I understand correctly I need to add 7.5 oz to raise my FC.

I need to add muriatic acid to lower my TA and pH, but which number do I target first, so I don't lower it too much?

I'm not sure what to use to raise my CYA. My test only went down to 30 and I could still see the dot in the bottom.

I'm also using 3" chlorine tabs.

I didnt test test for anything else. Are there only things I need to watch for?

Thanks!
 
Johnsbd said:
We just put in a new pool. I've tested the water at a local supply store and ended up with $$chemicals to use. A friend told me about this site and so far it's been very helpful!

I purchased a recommended test kit and used it for the first time tonight.

Here are the results.

1.6ppm FC
8 ppm pH
150 TA
<30 CYA

I have a big bucket of trichlo to use up for the chlorine. If I understand correctly I need to add 7.5 oz to raise my FC.

I need to add muriatic acid to lower my TA and pH, but which number do I target first, so I don't lower it too much?

I'm not sure what to use to raise my CYA. My test only went down to 30 and I could still see the dot in the bottom.

I'm also using 3" chlorine tabs.

I didnt test test for anything else. Are there only things I need to watch for?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

FC/CC/CYA/pH/TA are the most important ones. Watch out with trichlor as it also increases CYA along with FC. You need to increase CYA atm but as soon as it reaches 40 you'll need to switch to liquid chlorine (bleach) exclusively.
I'd leave TA alone for now and monitor pH. These 2 parameters are somewhat related so it would be really confusing to adjust both.

I understand your pool birthday is 7/28. Did PB left you instructions what to do with it over first 30 days or it's beyond that startup period and it's fully yours?

Your pH is at the end of scale- bring it down to about 7.4 level with Muriatic Acid. Do it in 2-3 steps with pump running and about 30 min in between additions, you don't want to overshoot.
 
Thanks. Those articles are very helpful. I'll probably have to read them multiple times for it all to sink in.

So, it sounds like I need to stop using the tablets. I actually put my last few in the tube today, and was planning on picking some up tomorrow. so can I just use the trichlor each day until either it runs out or I hit the 40 CYA level? Then switch to bleach each day? Once I do this what happens if I miss a couple of days adding bleach? We travel to see family on weekends, so might miss a couple of days in a row.

The pool company left me instructions. Always keep tablets in tube. Adjust dial on tube if FC is low or high. Shock once a week. Use algacide once a week. Take samples to local store to test once a week (learned really quickly that I don't want to do that!). Brush and vacuum once a week. Use kreepy crawler as often as I like.

I was was able to figure out reading here that the reason my chlorine level keeps dropping every day is because the CYA is so low. Even with the tablets I've had to add trichlor every few days to get my FC to register on the test strips.

Thanks!
 
Johnsbd said:
Thanks. Those articles are very helpful. I'll probably have to read them multiple times for it all to sink in.

So, it sounds like I need to stop using the tablets. I actually put my last few in the tube today, and was planning on picking some up tomorrow. so can I just use the trichlor each day until either it runs out or I hit the 40 CYA level? Then switch to bleach each day? Once I do this what happens if I miss a couple of days adding bleach? We travel to see family on weekends, so might miss a couple of days in a row.

The pool company left me instructions. Always keep tablets in tube. Adjust dial on tube if FC is low or high. Shock once a week. Use algacide once a week. Take samples to local store to test once a week (learned really quickly that I don't want to do that!). Brush and vacuum once a week. Use kreepy crawler as often as I like.

I was was able to figure out reading here that the reason my chlorine level keeps dropping every day is because the CYA is so low. Even with the tablets I've had to add trichlor every few days to get my FC to register on the test strips.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

OK, science starts with reliable data- get yourself TF-100 test kit: TF100.

Please disregard what I said above, I based those recommendations assuming you got your numbers using either TF100 or K2006 test kits. Pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate by a factor of 2 or more. At that scale of error nobody can make any sensible recommendations.

Don't use algaecides, they usually contain copper which is hard to get rid of.
 
You can use trichlor to raise CYA, but it is pretty slow. Might be better to save them for later and raise CYA quicker for now.

Two options for vaca. Raise FC to shock level for your cya, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Or use some trichlor oucjks. Or both.

No pool store and no algaecides. :thumleft:
 
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here :)

You'll need to decide on the best short term approach to keeping your free chlorine (FC) on target.

Either way, add liguid chlorine right away to get to a correct target per this chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

One way to go:
- Play around with PoolMath (link at the top of every page).
- Figure out a schedule on paper or in Excel for using the tabs and how fast you need them to dissolve to maintain FC.
- You can base it on 2.5 ppm FC loss per day and fine-tune that later.
- Also determine how quickly your CYA will rise with that amount of pucks.
- Don't take your CYA past 40 so you have some room for puck use on vacations.
- After you reach 40 ppm CYA, you follow TFPC - switch to liquid chlorine exclusively, except for absences over 2 days.

Or, Start Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) right away:
- Put the pucks away and save them for vacations (they don't deteriorate noticeably)
- Immediately add the correct amount of stabilizer (CYA, cyanuric acid) by using PoolMath to figure it out, and then buying powdered stabilizer to put in the pool
- Robelle Stabilizer and Conditioner for Swimming Pools - Walmart.com
- Three $16 jars of 1.75 lbs each will add 40 ppm CYA to 16,000 gallons (use PoolMath to double-check my numbers cause it's your pool :)
- Test your water, use PoolMath to determine how much liquid chlorine to add, and pour it in.

The second option is the easier way to learn TFPC.
 
pooldv said:
You can use trichlor to raise CYA, but it is pretty slow. Might be better to save them for later and raise CYA quicker for now.

Two options for vaca. Raise FC to shock level for your cya, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Or use some trichlor oucjks. Or both.

No pool store and no algaecides. :thumleft:
Click to expand...

he doesn't have test kit, that CYA<30 could be anything ... OTOH since this is fresh fill may be this will work. I hate guesstimates.
 

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pooldv said:
Yes, he does. Ist post 2nd paragraph says
Click to expand...

I see, the reference to pool store and FC test strips threw me off. I need a break :)

- - - Updated - - -

Johnsbd said:
The numbers I posted are based on the test kit I used for the first time tonight. It's the K2006.

I think I'll go with the TFPC option if I can talk my hubby into it.

Liquid chlorine is regular household bleach, correct?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

It is, the most important it needs to be plain bleach - not splashless, scented or something else.

Could you please put details of your pool and test kit in your signature so I won't get confused again? :)

And to your previous question- I'm not adding bleach daily, every other day when it's hot and much less often when temperature drops so weekends are not a problem at all. When your water gets stable few days don't change much.
Ppl around here use tablets when going on vacations for weeks but that requires to be low on CYA to begin with.
 
A few options for chlorinating liquid and just a matter of shopping for best deal ($/gal divided by % strength)

8.25% household bleach (not scented or splashless)
10% liquid pool shock at Walmart
12.5% pool chlorinating liquid (some hardwares and pool stores)

There needs to be a "% sodium hypochlorite" listed. Best to buy fresh with a recent manufacture date code, e.g. "16180" which means 2016 and the 180th day of the year (late June)

This link can give you an idea or two: 2016 bleach prices - Page 15
 
John,

Can you please add your pool information in your signature? This will help people here help you. Go under the settings button and look for edit signature (this link should get you there). Pool size/type and equipment brands/model numbers etc are extremely helpful.

In many states you can buy liquid chlorine in refillable 2.5 or 5 gal containers. Leslie's has it here in FL and that's the only thing I buy there unless I need a part in an emergency. We have friends in Houston that get cl at Napco from recommendations I found on this site. Best prices run about $1.40/gal for 10%. Pool calculator will tell you how much CYA each trichlor tablet adds. For my pool its 2.6 ppm per 8 oz (3") tablet. You can ratio based on the size of your pool to get your number. I opted to raise mine to 40 ppm with trichlor during winter and then switch back to liquid. Worked pretty well and I only put tablets in when I travel. I lose a little CYA each month from rain that needs to be pumped out so it's pretty easy to manage here in Florida.

I hope this helps.

Chris

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
The main ones don't require much wait or a specific order because it's all done in an hour anyway. Pump running:

1. Add enough muriatic acid to correct your pH
2. You reported CYA as <30, so add that in steps of 10 ppm
3. Add chlorinating liquid to achieve 4 ppm FC (30 minutes after adding the acid)

Never mix concentrated MA and bleach. So for example triple-rinse pails, measuring cups, etc. or don't measure the bleach. Just use 1/2 jug as an increment and pour straight from the bottle, with the bottle floated on the water.

This article describes some things about adding chemicals: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

The other things can be fine-tuned one at a time after these are done.
 
Safety-wise, unless you wear nice big glasses or sunnies, pick up some safety glasses. Muriatic acid (MA) or bleach in the eye is a bad thing.

If you get some on your skin, don't panic. Just rinse your skin next chance you get.

MA has fumes depending on weather conditions. When/if you breathe MA fumes, it will startle you (you will know it). It is an acute risk and will not accumulate or damage you permanently cause you will feel it right away and move! The trick is to stay upwind or hold your breath. After a while, you'll be able to just float the bottle and estimate a cup or two.

If you're alarmed by either chemical, regular household rubber gloves will protect your hands, or you can take as much precaution as you're comfortable with. Both can leave bleached spots on your clothes and most paving, so due care is always a good idea.
 
Here is a set of links I share with new pool owners. It is a lot of info. as you have found. Take it a bite at a time. It will all make sense as you start using it:

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

:kim:
 

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