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Thread: Swamp Monkey No Happy

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    Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Hi All, been reading the forum the last couple weeks, love the community. I'm taking over care of a swamp for my aging Father. Pool details in signature. I found the pool, green with frogs and a turtle, with significant decaying debris at the bottom. He says it had been taken care of by a local service until last year, but I recall it being closed for the last 2-3 years. The pool service guy did come "open" the pool a few weeks ago and I found a copper algaecide bottle, but pool was still a swamp when I started.

    After half-doing the SLAM process without a proper test kit by using strips, I finally converted and am doing this right AND asking for help on the board.

    Current chem situation
    PH - 7.0
    Calcium - 400
    Alkalinity - 120
    CYA - 50
    FC - 15ppm (about to add some more)
    CC - 2 ppm

    Now I admit I started without checking CYA and probably went through 20 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine. For the last ~10 days, I have been brushing, scooping debris, (mostly free now as best I can tell), and adding CYA and chlorine (liquid bleach). FC has bumped around from 20 and lower, when I add more. While the green is gone, I have lots of brown detritus (dead algae?) and a cloudy pool.

    I have been frequently checking filter and backwashing/rinsing but I have seen no apparent change in pool clarity after several days. I am concerned the filter is not functioning properly and am considering a deep clean. PH is low and I will add more super washing soda this afternoon, but thinking about borates as well.

    Thoughts/Advice welcome!!!
    Pool newbie, 17k gallon in ground swamp, vinyl, Hayward S-210T sand filter, Hayward SP-0711 multipart, Taylor 2006 test kit. Originally built in 1999

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here

    Please add your pool surface (plaster, vinyl or fiberglass) to your signature when you get a chance.

    The pH test is not reliable at FC level above 10 ppm, so there is a slight concern that pH may need to be raised. Do you have any pH tests taken when FC was 10 ppm or less?

    Do not add any more more CYA because your test at 50 ppm CYA is just fine.

    Glad to hear you're removing the visible organic debris. The more of that you can get out the better. Take a picture looking down at your steps you will see the progress. And post one picture here so we have a better idea of what you're up against.
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Welcome to the forum.

    Please read the SLAM article in Pool School. That is the process you should be undertaking. It calls for SLAM value FC (20 ppm, brushing, vacuuming and cleaning your filter as needed. Your pump should be running 24/7

    All these things have to be done simultaneously for a pool that badly neglected.

    Do you have all the solids netted from the bottom?

    Do you have a pic(s) to share?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Morning,

    Pool surface is vinyl. After adding a mix of Borax and super washing soda, my PH late yesterday was at 7.4. This morning 7.4

    Added liquid chlorine yesterday afternoon, an hour later tested FC at 21ppm, by 8pm it was at 18ppm, added more, and tested at 10pm at 22ppm, this morning 7am, FC tested at 18ppm, so I have added some more to bring back above 20ppm.

    I have netted all solids, as best as I can tell. I have been netting/vacuuming the deepend and up until a few days ago, still was coming up with leaves/detritus as well as some green/brown clouds that would be stirred up. I have actively been stirring up that end over the last several days to ensure any organics come into contact with the free chlorine. No more mystery green/brown cloud. When I brush the steps, there is a light brown/beige cloud that I assume is dead organics.

    Here are photos from this morning, hope they come through.
    photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPG
    Pool newbie, 17k gallon in ground swamp, vinyl, Hayward S-210T sand filter, Hayward SP-0711 multipart, Taylor 2006 test kit. Originally built in 1999

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Good you're going well. Have you read the SLAM procedure?

    You can skip all tests except FC, and occasionally CC. You can enter them here like this:

    10:00 PM
    FC 22.0

    7:00 AM
    FC 18.0 (added to get to 20)
    CC 1.5 (just my example)

    Maintain and brush. It will start to look better soon.
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Thanks @needsajet, will do going forward and yes have read the SLAM process. I am set up on a schedule for testing/adding every 3 hours during day. Does this sound right?

    What about PH? I have read excess chlorine can reduce PH, should this be tested maybe once a day to stay on top of it?

    I may need to travel for 24-36 hours in next couple days. If I am at a relatively stable FC level, can I prescribe my elderly father to simply add X amount of liquid chlorine every Y hours to ensure the pool does not relapse. He cannot get a sample for testing.

    thanks
    Pool newbie, 17k gallon in ground swamp, vinyl, Hayward S-210T sand filter, Hayward SP-0711 multipart, Taylor 2006 test kit. Originally built in 1999

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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    There is no reason to test ANY OTHER parameter during the SLAM except FC. (and then add CC's if your water is clear or very close to clear)

    You can increase your testing interval as the pool clears but test at least 2-3 times in a 24 hour period.....more in the early stages of the SLAM
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Swamp Monkey No Happy

    Don't bother testing pH because the test is inaccurate above 10 ppm FC anyway.

    Yes, you can set up pre-determined amounts based on how it's been going. I would not swim in the pool unless it's been tested and you're sure the pool is not above shock level, but otherwise no harm done if FC is a bit off, and it's better to add some so it stays up near shock level.
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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