Algae in otherwise chemically "balanced" pool (TA is off the chart)

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psurenee98

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Aug 4, 2016
9
Jim Thorpe, PA
Greetings!

I'm new to TFP, and I have to give major props to this site - it has saved me quite a few times! So thank you so very much!! I am having an algae issue and I can't seem to find answers for a few of the questions I have. I'm trying to piece all of this information together to fix my specific problem, but I want to be sure I'm doing the right thing before playing chemist in our new 16K gallon above ground vinyl pool with a SWG and sand filter. Here's the current situation:

Problem: Greenish hue to water, no blooms but pool sides/floor slippery. Stairs definitely green. SWG is currently OFF.

Just had water tested at the pool store (SWG manual target #s in parenthesis):

Total Chlorine: 2.4
FC: 2.4 (1.0-3.0)
pH: 7.5 (7.2-7.6)
TA: 210 (80-120)
CH: 225 (200-400)
CYA: 45 (50-100)
Satl: 3590 (3200-4000)

Pool has been thoroughly brushed and vacuumed. Backwashed water greenish hue. Redirected return jet to just break water hoping to aerate. Utilized PoolMath calculator based on pH target 7.4 (first mistake by me, I think). Added 16oz MA ( second mistake - just saw it was the 'eco' kind. Said on bottle to use 1/4 of a bottle per 10K gallons. Oops).

Questions
1. Should I put the target pH in as 7.1 to further lower TA, then follow TFP "lowering TA" protocol? How long to wait in between doses of MA?
2. Should I return the other bottle of MA and get the non-eco kind? Or ...
2a. Should I add closer to 1/3 of the bottle?
2b. How long should I wait before I test it?
3. Once I add enough MA, how long until we can swim? I'd rather have my kids aerate the pool.
4. If the pool is chlorinated properly (as far as the numbers tell me) is it safe to swim in even if it's green as the TA is being lowered?
5. While I am fixing the TA/algae issue, should I keep the SWG OFF?

There was something else but I forget what it was - this is more than enough to start! Any insight you may be able to provide would be VERY helpful! Thank you so much for your time!

Best, Renee
 
You are overlooking the PRIME issue in your pool and should be done first.....then answer those questions.

You need to SLAM your pool. Regardless of any FC level you might have, the fact remains you have living algae in your pool and must SLAM your pool to get rid of it.

Now, after saying that, you will not be able to SLAM your pool without doing your own testing that can be trusted. Pool store numbers are bogus.....your own good testing is what we need to rely on to walk you through the SLAM process. You can read more about it in Pool School.
 
Thank you so much for your quick response! Just ordered the test kit. It's not due for delivery until next week - what can I do in the meantime? I have 4 gallons of liquid Chlorine on hand.

I have been reading this site .... and reading ... and reading ... I'm am avid reader and a teacher and I am officially super-saturated with information I can't practically process because I've never done it! Looking forward to this adventure in Pool Store Independence!!!
 
psurenee98 said:
Thank you so much for your quick response! Just ordered the test kit. It's not due for delivery until next week - what can I do in the meantime? I have 4 gallons of liquid Chlorine on hand.

I have been reading this site .... and reading ... and reading ... I'm am avid reader and a teacher and I am officially super-saturated with information I can't practically process because I've never done it! Looking forward to this adventure in Pool Store Independence!!!
Click to expand...

2 gal of bleach right away with 1/2 gal daily afterwards. Tablets, pellets, Nature / Frog cartridges- out and never back again. Don't add anything to the water until your test kit arrives and you can provide reliable numbers. Just bleach, nothing else. Brushing and running filter 24/7 helps too.

Please update your signature with pool / equipment details and post picture of the pool in daylight over stairs if possible.
 
psurenee98 said:
Thank you - adding the second gallon of liquid chlorine and letting the filter run all night.

The SWG is still being by-passed until we finish the shock - is this ok?
Click to expand...

What shock? That wasn't a shock- just some chlorine to get you through until your test kit arrives. We need reliable data to give you meaningful recommendations and that's why the test kit is essential. I just didn't want you to turn full green in between as you're showing signs of -1 day max to that event.

You can keep your SWG off for now, will be slightly less confusing.
 
The TF-100 test kit arrived and all tests have been completed! Here is the updated situation (with a +/- for operator error):
FC - 3
CC - .5
TC - 3.5
CH - 250ppm
TA - 150
CYA - 40
NaCl - 3800ppm
pH - 7.5

SWG is still off. The water is a tad cloudy, but no green at all. I have continued adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine each day, as well as vacuumed and brushed daily.

I am working on trying to upload a picture.
 

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psurenee98 said:
The TF-100 test kit arrived and all tests have been completed! Here is the updated situation (with a +/- for operator error):
FC - 3
CC - .5
TC - 3.5
CH - 250ppm
TA - 150
CYA - 40
NaCl - 3800ppm
pH - 7.5

SWG is still off. The water is a tad cloudy, but no green at all. I have continued adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine each day, as well as vacuumed and brushed daily.

I am working on trying to upload a picture.
Click to expand...

Now you're talking :) Please bring your pH down to about 7.2 using MA (PoolMath), stock up on bleach (10 gal min) and SLAM away- bring your FC up to 16 using bleach and monitor it closely, every 2 hrs at the beginning. Pump/filter- 24/7 until you complete SLAM. You need to test mostly FC during SLAM other parameters can wait. Most of the rest of parameters are where they're supposed to be anyway.
 
I'm getting the hang of it! Will add the MA tonight and start the SLaM in the morning when I can monitor levels.

Should I have my return jet angled down to mix the MA? Should I then leave the filter run all night? And most importantly ...

Can you swim during the SLAM?
 
psurenee98 said:
I'm getting the hang of it! Will add the MA tonight and start the SLaM in the morning when I can monitor levels.

Should I have my return jet angled down to mix the MA? Should I then leave the filter run all night? And most importantly ...

Can you swim during the SLAM?
Click to expand...

MA mixes well even on its own so you can live returns whichever way you like. If they cause aeration then it would probably be better to turn them downwards.

I'd leave filter on- you're going to have it 24/7 during SLAM anyway, is it to reduce electrical bill?

Yes, you can if water is clear enough to see a swimmer at the bottom of the deep end. Besides you nobody will probably notice elevated FC level.
 
Fabulous, thank you so much for your help. Turned the return down - I think it was aerating (there were bubbles breaking the surface). I usually conserve electric when and where I can as a general rule - it's on a timer, but it's been running since Thursday anyway. No worries there!

I'll keep you posted during the SLAM. Thanks again! :D
 
Question already.

Checked the CYA shock chart to find out what my shock FC should be, and for my SWG it says to have a CYA of 60-80. My CYA is at 40 (45 at best). Do I have to adjust the CYA before I SLAM?

pH just registered 7.2 so otherwise I'm ready to go.
 

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