Sanitizing Spa - Guidance

[outdoor]

First off, I know I'm going to get a lot of feedback telling me or suggesting i use the Bleach/Dichlor method. I've decided to try an alternative process and would like advice or guidance as to how i might carry this out.

First, I plan to use Spa Marvel and Bleach as sanitizer and overall water treatment.

I want to keep Chlorine at a minimum since in other spas, I've found the smell and skin impacts adverse. so 1.5ppm/2ppm is what i would like to aim for.

Shocking, I plan to use MPS again to keep chlorine minimized.

So my plan is to once i first fill my tub to add the spa marvel and then enough chlorine to bring to 2 ppm.

I was going to add the MPS once per week. something like one packette of Seaklear SPA MPS Shock.

My questions are:

Is this going to be enough MPS shock?
What is opinion on how often i will have to add chlorine and how much? After each soak?


Rgds

 

[floridarandy]

Ha, so as not to disappoint, if you do bleach right you can keep adequate levels to sanitize without noticing chlorine smell or itchy skin. At least try it with the help of us here who swear by it. I use only 2 oz of bleach every day or two, maybe .5 oz acid once or twice a week and only a couple teaspoons of baking soda every week or two. SO EASY! Water chemistry is perfect and crystal clear. Really inexpensive too. Had the 325 gallon Hot Spring tub for 2 1/2 months and haven't used a gallon of bleach yet.

Add bromines too!


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[outdoor]

Dealer says if i use muriatic acid it will void any warranty.

 

[floridarandy]

I'll let others reply as well but in diluted form and in small quantities needed I've never had an issue. I assume dealers are concerns about spills damaging shells.


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[floridarandy]

Here's my acid measuring protocol. Use this one cup measure with handle. It allows measures down to less than 1 oz:

http://www.kohls.com/product/prd-23...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLDyuOy_qM4CFY8WgQodFAoA6A

Fill plastic 5 gallon bucket from spa. With filled bucket on ground measure acid into measuring up with handle over bucket. Set acid jug on ground and slowly pour acid into bucket. Pick up bucket and slowly add to spa at overflow.

Typically use less than 2 oz of acid diluted in 5 gallons of water and slowly add to spa.

Never measure acid over spa. Always measure into handled measure over 5 gallon bucket so any overfill goes into bucket. Only pick up bucket to add to spa after measure and acid have been put away.

Use this same method for the swimming pool using a handled 4 cup measure.

 

[ant 83]

First of all, you can use dry powdered acid if you like, there's nothing wrong with it other than a little extra cost over MA.

Secondly, CYA/Chlorine stabilizer moderates the effects of chlorine and makes it a good deal less harsh. It is recommended that you establish 40-60 ppm CYA in your spa using Dichloro granules before using any liquid chlorine products after each fresh water fill. For every 10ppm chlorine added with Dichloro, 9ppm CYA is added along with. Also be aware that the "A" in CYA stands for acid, so it will put downward pressure on PH.

Thirdly, the Spa Marvel. I don't know what exactly this product dose. On their website they claim:

Spa Marvel helps to remove food that bacteria needs to survive by using enzymes. Spa Marvel is not a sanitizer.

Can enzymes make nitrate into a gas? That would be useful if true. Of course who knows how effective it would be. It doesn't take much N to fuel bacteria growth.

I suspect that the ahh-some product that is frequently recommended here makes use of enzymes when it does its thing.

Fourthly, you are welcome to make use of MPS non-chlorine shock, to oxidize bather waste if you wish. However, be aware that MPS is not a substitute for chlorine as a sanitizer. It is an in-addition too chlorine product, not a substitute. MPS will also cause interference with the CC portion of your Chlorine testing, however that issue can be worked around if you wish to do so. You can do a search here on TFP to learn more about that if you're interested.

Bottom line, if you do not wish to deal with hot tub itch/Legionnaires' disease/hot tub lung, and other associated health complications that come along with unsanitized 100 degree water, you'll need to maintain a testable amount chlorine at all times. The lower amount of chlorine, the more often it needs to be added. CYA helps you do this. Do this, maintain PH between 7.2 and 8, and use a pipe cleaning product at each water change is all that is needed. I find that this is plenty to keep up with. Other products just adds more work/cost from my prospective.

Some strategies you can utilize to reduce Chlorine smell:

1. Shower before and after spa use.

2. Open spa cover and run air jet cycle before you enter spa.

3. Add Chlorine when you get out, instead of before you get in.

4. Allow spa water to get exposure to direct sunlight with Chlorine present in the water.

5. Don't use the air jets when you are in the spa.

6. Realize that what you smell are Chlorine byproducts, and that this is the end result of water that has been cleaned. Its not harmful, and is easily rinsed away with a shower when you are done with the spa. In other words, stop worrying about the smell.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

One clarification - Ahh-some is not an enzyme based cleaner. It is a concentrated quaternary ammonium compound (linear quat) that acts as a powerful surfactant. It's those surfactant properties that breakup bacterial biofilms and allows chlorine to penetrate and further destroy the biofilms.

As for enzyme cleaners, they typically need low chlorine levels to avoid oxidizing and destroying the enzymes. The enzymes also typically need lots of dissolved oxygen gas in the water in order to help oxidize organic waste. So you will need to carefully follow the product guidelines or else you risk inactivating the enzymes and having no way to remove organic bather waste.

As others mention, if you wish to use MPS in conjunction with chlorine, you'll need to purchase the total oxidizer test kit from Taylor for removing the interferences caused by MPS.

 

[outdoor]

First of all, you can use dry powdered acid if you like, there's nothing wrong with it other than a little extra cost over MA.

Secondly, CYA/Chlorine stabilizer moderates the effects of chlorine and makes it a good deal less harsh. It is recommended that you establish 40-60 ppm CYA in your spa using Dichloro granules before using any liquid chlorine products after each fresh water fill. For every 10ppm chlorine added with Dichloro, 9ppm CYA is added along with. Also be aware that the "A" in CYA stands for acid, so it will put downward pressure on PH.

Thirdly, the Spa Marvel. I don't know what exactly this product dose. On their website they claim:



Can enzymes make nitrate into a gas? That would be useful if true. Of course who knows how effective it would be. It doesn't take much N to fuel bacteria growth.

I suspect that the ahh-some product that is frequently recommended here makes use of enzymes when it does its thing.

Fourthly, you are welcome to make use of MPS non-chlorine shock, to oxidize bather waste if you wish. However, be aware that MPS is not a substitute for chlorine as a sanitizer. It is an in-addition too chlorine product, not a substitute. MPS will also cause interference with the CC portion of your Chlorine testing, however that issue can be worked around if you wish to do so. You can do a search here on TFP to learn more about that if you're interested.

Bottom line, if you do not wish to deal with hot tub itch/Legionnaires' disease/hot tub lung, and other associated health complications that come along with unsanitized 100 degree water, you'll need to maintain a testable amount chlorine at all times. The lower amount of chlorine, the more often it needs to be added. CYA helps you do this. Do this, maintain PH between 7.2 and 8, and use a pipe cleaning product at each water change is all that is needed. I find that this is plenty to keep up with. Other products just adds more work/cost from my prospective.

Some strategies you can utilize to reduce Chlorine smell:

1. Shower before and after spa use.

2. Open spa cover and run air jet cycle before you enter spa.

3. Add Chlorine when you get out, instead of before you get in.

4. Allow spa water to get exposure to direct sunlight with Chlorine present in the water.

5. Don't use the air jets when you are in the spa.

6. Realize that what you smell are Chlorine byproducts, and that this is the end result of water that has been cleaned. Its not harmful, and is easily rinsed away with a shower when you are done with the spa. In other words, stop worrying about the smell.

Oh, i understand the importance of CYA for sure. I'm planning on adding that as well to start. Already have some from pool chemicals.

Don't use air jets though....?? That is what is a great feature or adds great deal of power to jets, which is what i like.