MY 3/4 HP WHISPERFLO FILTER PUMP STOPPED PUMPING

[wuzzup]

I've got a WFE-3 Whisperflo Filter and Pool Pump (3/4 HP, 3450RPM, R56Y Frame Type)...

I went to empty the strainer basket, yesterday, and sadly the basket was melted at the bottom and there was very little flow coming out of the exit port. Somehow, it lost it's prime and eventually damaged the bearings, impeller and seals, I suspect.

Question: Can I get away with replacing just the motor or do you think I need to replace the whole pump motor and filter assembly. The filter strainer got hot enough to actual melt the bottom half of the strainer basket...I'm concerned if the excessive heat could have done some damage on the filter side of the pump.

Quesion 2: If I can simply replace the motor, can you tell me what other components need to be replaced (seals, etc)? Is there a specific rebuild kit to buy when just replacing the motor on these Whisperflos?

Thank you for providing this fantastic blog and I hope you get a few hundred hits a day of traffic for your trouble. You help homeowners save money!

 

[mas985]

I don't think you will know until you disassemble the pump. I would remove the motor from the pump housing to inspect the impeller and see what damage occured inside the housing. Also given that you still have some flow the only problem may be a damaged impeller or just something stuck in it. The motor may still be good.

 

[wuzzup]

Thanks, Mark, for your reply.

I will take the motor apart and have a look-see at the impeller. It's possible that something's jammed the impeller but, at the same time, I can't see how anything large enough could get past the strainer basket to reach it.

Won't hurt to look since I got to replace something anyway.


I've got a second question but it's unrelated to this thread so I'll post it in a new thread.


I wanted to mention to other pool owners who decide to replace filter pumps, themselves...

The power running to my pool filter is 208, single phase, I believe.

Most home circuits are 120, single phase and many industrial circuits run 208 (or higher), 3 phase.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe the factory default setting for the Pentair Whisperflow pumps are 120, single phase (or, maybe, it's 208/ 3 ph, I can't remember)

Therefore, if you have a circuit similar to mine, if you don't wire it properly you could very easily fry your brand new $400 filter pump that you just purchased!

If you are unsure on how to wire your motor it would be wise to have a licensed electrician check everything out before you flick that switch on for the first time!

Terry

 

[JasonLion]

None of the residential pool pumps use three phase power, they all are designed to use single phase.

 

[wuzzup]

I found the air leak, finally!

The 2" threaded male adapter fitting going into the suction side of the pump was the culprit. Somehow, this connection became loose enough to allow air into the pump and preventing it from fully priming.

I ran a running hose over the incoming pipes as instructed in the section "LEAK DETECTION". Sure enough, when water was run over the loose connection, the basket pot on the pump filled immediately!

Thank you for helping me fix this problem!

 

[wuzzup]

I spent a $100 on parts for the pump motor, and new PVC fittings without solving the problem.

A pool service man quoted me $1800; said I had an underground air leak in my 40 year old copper pipe and the concrete had to be saw cut.

If your pump isn't fully priming, read the section on "Leak Detection", first, before you begin troubleshooting.

If I had followed this advice: $30 in new PVC pipe and fittings to fix.

Also, for those of you with older pools that have copper pipe...

I used a product called "Just-For_Copper". It's liquid bonding agent for copper pipe if you don't have a solder kit handy.

Many plumbers are using this stuff and it bonds great. Rated for 350 psi, no field failures reported over 5 years plus.