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Thread: Startup Chemical Sequence

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    Join Date
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    Startup Chemical Sequence

    I'm relatively new to TFP, did it a couple of years ago and made the mistake of moving away to the local pool stores advice. Long story short, went on vacation and ended up with a fluorescent green pool that I couldn't get to change no matter their recommendations. The wife and I made the decision to stop throwing good money after bad so we drained, washed and refilled, aside from evaporation losses this pool has never had the water replaced.

    Did a test this morning and here are the results. (Tap Water)

    FC .5
    TC .5
    pH 8
    TA 70
    CH 70
    out of CYA reagent but assuming it's 0. Will test this again this evening.

    Using the calculator I see that I need to add 30 oz of baking soda, 16 oz of MA, 28 lbs of CaCl, and 5 lbs of CYA to get into the normal range. Not to mention adding chlorine in the form of 8.25% bleach. What is the recommended order for adding them? Do I need to get the TA in range before adjusting pH? Should I add the CaCl prior to or after?

    Edited for this question: I'm going to replace the sand in the filter this weekend, should I recirculate or go ahead and filter?
    16K gal inground plaster pool w/ spa, built 2005; Pentair Tagleus TA 100-D Sand Filter, Pentair 3HP intelli-flo pump, Polaris 360 cleaner, Easy Touch 8 control center.

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    Hello and welcome to TFP! Quick start-up? Here you go:
    - Increase CYA to at least 30.
    To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
    You don't list your location (which you should update), but if you're in a hot area, then you may want to increase CYA to 40 or 50. But no less than 30.

    - Day 1 increase FC to about 3 ppm. Once the stabilizer is all dissolved and in the pool, then increase FC to about 4-5 or maintain as noted on the Chlorine/CYA Chart for your new CYA.
    - Keep pH in the mid 7s. Lower with muriatic acid. Do that about 30 min to 1 hour after adding the bleach above.
    - Watch your CH level as it's quite low compared to your recommended minimum of 250. If you have very hard water locally, it may increase fairly soon. If not, then increase as required to protect your plaster.
    - Leave TA along (no baking soda).

    Hope that helps. Nice to have you with us.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

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    Mr Bruce's Avatar
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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    It would be better to test the pool water. It may be different than the fill.

    pH first. Then enough chlorine to get to FC 3. Then CYA.

    After you settle on a CYA number, CH. Then watch pH for a while before making TA adjustment.

    edit: I notice Pat and I have a slightly different order. I think we can agree pH and FC 30 minutes apart the first day, along with CYA. The other stuff can be after you get settled there.
    32K gallon Plaster - 1hp Hayward 2 speed Super Pump - Hayward S200 Sand Filter - TF100XL
    Test Kits - Pool Math - Chlorine/CYA/Target/Slam Chart

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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    Thanks, I've updated my info to reflect I'm in Austin, TX.
    16K gal inground plaster pool w/ spa, built 2005; Pentair Tagleus TA 100-D Sand Filter, Pentair 3HP intelli-flo pump, Polaris 360 cleaner, Easy Touch 8 control center.

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    Oh yeah .... 50 for sure. A CYA of 50 works well if your water receives a good amount of our TX sun. Since new water has no CYA, you can add the required amount per the calculator and consider it "in" once all dissolved. No need to re-test right away. Watch the FC closely for the next couple days though until you get in a routine. Today (day 1), keep FC at about 3. But after that, never let it drop below 4 and try to stay more around the 6 range (+/- 1ppm).
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  6. Back To Top    #6

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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    Additional questions:

    1) Is it normal for CYA to disappear in a pool with new water? I added liquid conditioner yesterday evening and the CYA was 45ish at bedtime. I just checked and it was down to below 30 at lunch.

    2) How often do y'all replace your reagents? I was getting some strange readings FC = 3, TC = 1.5, and pH took a couple of tests to get a believable reading.

    I'm awaiting delivery of my K-1515, so I'm using Leslies version of the K-2005 test kit.
    16K gal inground plaster pool w/ spa, built 2005; Pentair Tagleus TA 100-D Sand Filter, Pentair 3HP intelli-flo pump, Polaris 360 cleaner, Easy Touch 8 control center.

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Startup Chemical Sequence

    #1 - No. CYA doesn't disappear that fast and normally is reduced by water exchange. There is a +/- 15 variable in testing for thart specific item, so it's possible it was just a testing variable.
    #2 - If your reagents were stored indoors in A/C, they should last a good 1-2 seasons at least. And remember, your K-2005 becomes a K-2006 if you add THIS ITEM.

    Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

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