Question about slamming

[Broberts]

Hi guys. Recently had two algae outbreaks over the last two weeks. Weird to me because I keep my FC around 5-7 and CC has never been over 0.5. I thought maybe it was due to the kids throwing some noodles in that had been down to the lake the previous weekend.

Regardless, the outbreak occurred while my FC was up near 7, CYA was 40,pH 7.2, TA 80.

I use a floater with trichlor as my primary sanitizer.
My Taylor test kit suggests bringing FC to 30ppm to combat algae outbreaks. So I broomed the entire pool floor and walls, removed ladder and cleaned it and all the pool stuff, and added a few gallons of 10% liquid chlorine and water tested at just over 30ppm that night.

The next morning, my FC was still at 30ppm and of course the water was milky with the dead algae. I filtered and filtered, vacuumed and vacuumed, but the water never really cleared up very well.

Then, yesterday, i came home to another beginning of an outbreak.

This time, my FC was 12.5, pH 7.2, CYA 45, and TA80. So, I broomed and slammed again with liquid chlorine to a level of 30ppm.

My question is, is that too much chlorine? The pool calculator tells me to bring FC to 16 to shock. My Taylor manual tells me 30 ppm to kill the algae. It takes well over a week for the FC to drop to recommended levels. Of course I've been in the pool at levels over 20 with no ill effects. But, i can smell the chlorine, or chloramine even though the CC has never risen above 0.5 with every test.

Thanks in advance and I'll listen on the air, lol.

 

[Broberts]

Updated test results for this morning

FC 29
CC 0.25
pH 7.4
CYA 45-50---target FC shock level is 20ppm
CH 280
TA 70

Pool still has slight green tint. Running mini rover to pick up dead algae from floor and to help with circulation.

 

[mgmoore7]

Please read the slam process. You need to keep the FC up to slam level until you can pass the oclt. I would use the recommended slam process and recommended slam levels from this website not the Taylor test kit

 

[Catanzaro]

Broberts:

Hope everything is well. Once you are done with the SLAM and your water has cleared up, IMO, the only causes of problems that are like yours is either circulation of pool water and/or brushing. If your pool is properly chlorinated, you brush regularly and have good circulation, you should not bee having any algae problems.

One item I do recommend (although can cause PH drift (that is up) if TA is not regulated) is the 360* rotating heads. These really do help circulate the water. In my pool, I do not brush, have not seen algae since the day I fired the pool store, and keep my CYA at around 30, with chlorine between 2-4 (recommended levels) and not seen an ounce of algae. My system moves water very rapidly and is probably oversized. There are 8 return jets, with 4 rotating heads, which really do help. With a TA of 80, I honestly believe you will not have any PH issues. I do not know if these will fit in an above ground pool, but I believe you should be fine.

Amazon.com : Circulator 10022a Automatic 360 Rotating Swimming Pool Cleaner Jet with Water Control Bottom Cap : Swimming Pool Maintenance Kits : Patio, Lawn Garden

The Circulator Rotating Water Jets for Swimming Pools - YouTube

 

[duraleigh]

I was not aware that Taylor suggests a 30 ppm chlorine level. Is that in the book you received with your test kit?

 

[Schnozz]

Duraleigh. Taylor does recommend a "super chlorination" of 30 ppm when needed, even weekly. See page 29 of the Instruction manual for the Taylor K-2006. They recommend a CYA of 50 on the same page. They also state that the FC level should be brought up to 30 at dusk so the "super chlorination" can be most effective with no FC wasted by the sun. Sounds like a shock, not a slam.

 

[duraleigh]

Thanks for that. I have always overlooked that.....got it now.

 

[Broberts]

I was not aware that Taylor suggests a 30 ppm chlorine level. Is that in the book you received with your test kit?

I know 30ppm is super high, but yes, in the manual that came with my Taylor kit, under "destruction of algae" it says that algae blooms "can be totally destroyed by adding 30ppm free chlorine all at once"

 

[Broberts]

Update

Went to Colorado with the family for quick Vaca before son leaves for college.

Gone for a week and left pump on(I leave the pump running 24/7 turning it off only to rinse filter a couple times a week). Came back to crystal clear water, but algae completely covering floor of pool. To me, this sounds like I have poor circulation.

After testing water,
FC 16
CC 0.5
pH 7.4
CYA 50
TA 70

I contemplated using some schedule 40 to make a second intake down low to help turn the water overa little better. I also have thought about buying a second pump to place opposite the original. However, it is a soft side pool and am a little unsure about reinforcing the spots for the jets... I'll have to do a little research unless anyone has a suggestion.

Does anyone have any thoughts on these two ideas? I appreciate any replies in advance!

- - - Updated - - -

Btw, as far as slamming, I was unsure about the recommended levels between the pool calculator and my Taylor manual. So, I went with the Taylor recommended level of 30ppm. It worked as far as killing algae. I just have trouble removing all the dead algae and I think that helps contribute to new outbreaks. Even though my FC remains high.

Poor circulation?

 

[Broberts]

Thanks Catanzaro. I looked at the link and will do a little more research on that product. It looks like I could just swap it out with the return I currently have. I think poor circulation is my biggest problem right now.

I'm also considering building a second intake down low to help pull water up from the bottom into the pump. Any thoughts on that? Was going to use some 2" PVC, as the threaded parts screw into my existing hardware well.

Thanks in advance,

 

[Catanzaro]

Broberts:

I see that you have a "mini pool rover vacuum". This will help along the floor and walls, so I do not see any reason to build any modifications with PVC. A properly chlorinated pool taken care of the TPF way is all you need. Before you order the rotating heads (which would be all you would need), please make sure that the threads are the same size (I believe it is your standard return head).

A 2400 gal/hour filter is plenty to turn over the water properly during the day. Is it possible, the floor is covered with debris and not algae? Crystal clear water does not sound like you have algae.

Can you describe the pool. How many return jets, skimmers, etc? I am assuming no main drain as it is an above ground pool. Is the skimmer and return on opposite sides? Thanks!

 

[Broberts]

@ Catanzaro

Good morning and thank you for your response.

It is 26' x 4' Coleman above ground pool. There is no traditional skimmer. The return jet and intake are located about 6-8' from each other with the pump side port about 6" below the water line and the return jet at the water line.

Sunday morning ran the pool rover to pick up debris and afterward the algae on the bottom mixed with the water making it completely green.

It's a little hard to describe, but the rover picked up about two bags of leaves and stirred up all the algae. My FC is a solid 16ppm with 0.5 CC.

That's why I thought circulation as you mentioned. Otherwise, I'm kind of stumped. My levels are all within balance, other than my chlorine being high (already near shock level for my CYA).

Needless to say, I'm going to attempt to SLAM today.

 

[Catanzaro]

I understand what type of pool you have at this time. It is possible that your filter is not sufficient enough to keep up with the demand (hard to tell). I know the manufacturer claims 2,400 per hour, but maybe the gallons per hour are off. My submersible pump (1,500 GPH, is more like 500 GPH), so this could be one problem. It appears that in hot climates, there is not enough water being pulled from the bottom to bring to the filter/pump.

If this were my pool, I would brush each and every day, especially the floor (if this is where your problem is). Any biofilm will be suspended in the water and chlorine will take care of the problem. My pool is your size, but I am running 2" plumbing, 350 lb. sand filter kit, with 2 skimmers, 2 main drains and 8 returns, which may be a little oversized, but probably is there for a reason.

Please try brushing daily to see if this clears up your issue. If so, then you may go to every other day and possibly every 3rd day. Outside of this, possibly a combination of chlorine and weekly maintenance of algaecide (Poly Quat 60 - non foaming, non metallic). Thanks!

 

[Broberts]

@ Catanzaro

Thanks for your input. Currently, I brush about once a week. Only because I never have had a problem with slimy walls and floor. But, I will start brushing once a day as you suggest.
I also clean my filter every other day unless it is unusually dirty. I try to run the rover once a day to aid circulation. I generally soak the filter for the rover and the pool filter in bleach water once a week as well just because i try to prevent this issue.

I do have a bottle of algaecide, but haven't used it since I stopped going to the pool store and switched to BBB method. It is the type you suggested because I didn't want to add metals to my water. When I get this outbreak cleared up i will add that to hopefully prevent another outbreak before the end of summer.

Btw, I know temperature has an effect on algae. It was hot here last week, but my pool doesn't get anywhere near full sun and the water stays pretty cool. The downfall of that is the leaves though. So I know no matter how clean I keep it, there are more than likely phosphates in the water. Last year I put the phosfree chemical in it, but this year I haven't and maybe that is the issue, even though I maintain a high level of chlorine.

Anyway, thx again for your help.

 

[Catanzaro]

PolyQuat 60 (non foaming - non metallic). I use the KemTek from Amazon. Try brushing first and then you can use the algaecide if necessary, but I believe the brushing will help. There is absolutely no need for "phosphate removers". If you were brushing once a week, I do not believe that you will have to brush daily. You can start daily and then scale back as necessary.

 

[max2k]

@ Catanzaro

Thanks for your input. Currently, I brush about once a week. Only because I never have had a problem with slimy walls and floor. But, I will start brushing once a day as you suggest.
I also clean my filter every other day unless it is unusually dirty. I try to run the rover once a day to aid circulation. I generally soak the filter for the rover and the pool filter in bleach water once a week as well just because i try to prevent this issue.

I do have a bottle of algaecide, but haven't used it since I stopped going to the pool store and switched to BBB method. It is the type you suggested because I didn't want to add metals to my water. When I get this outbreak cleared up i will add that to hopefully prevent another outbreak before the end of summer.

Btw, I know temperature has an effect on algae. It was hot here last week, but my pool doesn't get anywhere near full sun and the water stays pretty cool. The downfall of that is the leaves though. So I know no matter how clean I keep it, there are more than likely phosphates in the water. Last year I put the phosfree chemical in it, but this year I haven't and maybe that is the issue, even though I maintain a high level of chlorine.

Anyway, thx again for your help.

I'd recheck your CYA testing technique: I'm running my pool at FC 4-5 ppm / CYA 40 and haven't got any algae problems. Pump runs nightly for 12 hrs at 800 rpm and I'm brushing weekly if that. If you read your CYA too low you'd select target FC too low as well. It could also be that you never completed your previous SLAM and had some algae left in there. Another possibility is filter/circulation problem. I'd be very reluctant to add anything besides bleach to the water.