Trying TFPC for the first time - Some help please?

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L

l3asketcase

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Aug 19, 2011
6
Joplin MO
My daughter & son-n-law have a 16x3 above ground pool that they put away every winter. Their pool was getting greenish and they were about to use "shock" again and I told them about this site, I was immediately voted to be the one to "read/learn" all I could. So I've done that, I think I've read everything and understand some. They'd resorted to shock because they've had NO luck taking $amples to the local pool $tore and following their advice!$!$ Somewhere on this site I thought I read all they needed was a 6-way kit for seasonal pools? They got the HTH 6-way Test Kit.

They'd used shock and some other chemicals this summer so we weren't starting new, and they added couple cups of bleach in every day while we waited for the test to come.

From my understanding after testing, we should start the SLAMing process, so that's what we've done. We planned to keep following the SLAM directions but now I'm doubting myself mainly because there's no CYA reading, because they'd never added stabilizer. And I don't see the chart account for 0. Also, right out the gate we forgot to adjust the PH first as per directions.

Using the pool calc I set the chlorine goal to 10, we've tested and added chlorine 2 times so far. But I'd like to have advice about this please. I'm posting the test results and I know that it's not the exact terms you all use...but it's what the tests in this kit is.

TC - 1
PH - 8.2
TA - 150
TH - 150
CYA - Nuttin' Honey

They have all the 'chemicals' on hand, should they need them, that are suggested here with one exception - instead of Muratic Acid they got something called United Chemical No Mor Muratic Acid™

Please be patient with me, this was all clear as mud after reading through the first time. But I keep reading and I THINK I'm understanding more and more. I think we just need some hand holding getting started.

~Teresa
 
Yes I read that, that's where I saw that I needed only the 6-way test kit. I think I've read in many threads 'do this AFTER that, and do this BEFORE that' and FC, TC and CC...when my test can only test TC, like I said I'm just doubting that we're doing the right thing.

Also...When the instruction is to calculate how much bleach you need to raise your chlorine level to 12, that means as if I'm 'trying' to raise it to 12, no actually raising it to 12 right? Because the test kit I have doesn't go that high.

And another thing, did I read that after putting in the chlorine you can test again that same day, and add chlorine again the same day?

~Teresa
 
I think I can understand your confusion. You're wanting to slam which involves raising your Cya to 30 and your fc to 12. But you followed the seasonal guide and so have the six way test kit which doesn't measure FC above 10. The reason is with a small seasonal pool that's gone green it's usually easier to just drain it and start over.

However if you would prefer to slam you can keep your Cya low at 20 and slam at 10. Your kit will measure that. Just be careful adding your stabilizer because a pool that small any error and you'll overshoot.

So I would suggest get your pH to 7.2 then add stabilizer for cya at 20 and bleach for an FC of 10. Keep it at 10 testing often and supplementing with bleach.

And to answer your question you want to test and add as often as every couple hours until your FC kills the majority of the algae and your FC loss stabilizes. Your pool will turn from green to a cloudy blue as the algae dies. Make sure your filter is up to snuff to remove the dead algae. Then over the course of a few days the water will clear. Once cleared you can do an overnight chlorine loss test and if it passes let your fc drop down to 5 as you add more stabilizer to bring your Cya to 40 or so.
 
Yes Robert...You're getting me, almost! My kit tests CL only not FC, and it only goes to 5, which is what the pool is testing at now. (and yes I'm using bleach) I read that PH testing isn't reliable during SLAMing. So should I wait until the CL is stable/passes the overnight test, to test for PH?
Also stabilizer has never been added so is there an amount of stabilizer we should start with and then test? And it can take several days to get an accurate CYA right?
Oh, and the pool is 4600 Gal.
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! pH will read false high with FC over 10ppm, since the TA is also high you should go ahead and lower the pH. I don't know if you are at 10ppm of Fc or not. Since you have no CYA and a small pool, you can get two bags of dichlor shock, add 1 today and 1 tomorrow. Dichlor shock contains stabilizer and will be listed in the ingredients on the package. One bag will take your FC pretty high, probably around 20 with what you already have and will give approximately 13ppm of CYA. Once these two bags have been added go back to bleach for your chlorine source. You will need to vacuum to get the dead algae out.

Here is some info that will give a ballpark estimate of chlorine level with the OTO kit.
Richard320 said:
From my own research (which I hunted down here using search) Blinding yellow is about 10. School bus yellow is about 12-13. Hunter orange is around 18, up around 25 it starts to look pumpkin orange. I never went any higher than that, but it's been reliably reported that it eventually will turn brown if you get high enough.

It's not terribly accurate. The FAS-DPD test is. Once you tame the pool and learn its ways, you only need to use the FAS-DPD test a couple times a week, the OTO test is good enough to ensure you're in range. That's all it's good for - a range. 4>7 all look like 5 to me.
Click to expand...

If your family enjoys their pool they may want to invest in a FAS/DPD test kit such as a Taylor K2006 or [url=http://www.tftestkits.net] TF 100 [/url]. They will have accurate testing and it will last several seasons when stored in a cool, dry place.
 
Recommended CYA depends on your location and climate. Please add your location to your profile so it shows up over there <----

Adding CYA is covered in the seasonal guide, and also here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals. Cooler climate 30 ppm warmer climate 50 ppm.

You can buy individiual tests at TFTestkits.net. the FAS/DPD chlorine test measures FC up to 50ppm. And they sell the CYA test.
 
First of all we're in Joplin MO which is SW MO. Sorry I didn't mention that.

Zea3: Well since the kids just bought everything we think they'll need based on advice from this forum, they'd rather work with what they have if possible and not buy shock. We have stablizier I just don't know how much to start with.
Thanks for the chlorine level info, that'll help. We'd like to try and make the rest of this summer with this kit, and I can see already that the kit you're recommending would be better next summer :)

pooldv: I've read that about in a sock on the ladder in front of the return, but there's no recommendation for how much to use.

We vacuumed today, I'll work on the TA today and test again tomorrow. The green tint is gone, just a bit cloudy now.
 

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