Why won't this stuff Die?!
- Thread starter Mksmith
- Start date
So I have a few thoughts. Since you are measuring a FC of 40, your chlorine is fine. I hate to disagree with the folks here, but that really looks like pollen to me. It's the same color as I get when the dang Crepe Myrtles pop flowers. I would really suggest you pick up some pool DE and add it as instructed in the previous posts. They make skimmer socks that work good for small stuff or you could try putting an old tee shirt in the skimmer basket. Just be careful to check that it doesn't get too full of gunk.
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And let your FC drop a little back down to the proper SLaM level for your CYA. No use in keeping it that high for so long.
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And let your FC drop a little back down to the proper SLaM level for your CYA. No use in keeping it that high for so long.
drimran
0
I've been following this tread and I wanted to know why not use an algaecide, since this is such a stubborn problem?
I had a similar problem last year and a $30 bottle took care of it!
Crystal clear water and no algae since last September.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had a similar problem last year and a $30 bottle took care of it!
Crystal clear water and no algae since last September.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Being a bit harsh, your algae and your pool are no different than anyone else's algae and pool. I am sorry that what works for thousands of pools across the country does not work for yours. Everyone is free to manage their pools as they see fit and we actually encourage folks to learn what works and do just that.
Let us know if you find a combination that works for you.
he has a good kit so that doesn't apply as he sees the actual level in the pool
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I doubt that is an algae- they're at very elevated levels of FC for quite some time and seems to be consistently performing SLAM. The pool does not lose FC overnight, even at FC=40 - nothing lives in there. We just got something non standard, mostly from filtration side of the system. DE might help to cure that. It'll be interesting to see if that stuff will remain passive or start multiplying in the jar they put next to the pool.
IMO algaecides mask the actual problem which is unsanitary water. I'd prefer visible algae in the pool knowing it is more tolerant to chlorine than bacteria/viruses than 'clear' algae- free water that contains everything else. Besides algaecides bring copper in the water which is very hard to get rid of.
if you're not losing fc in oclt then it can't be algae. if you think it dies when you put it in a dish with bleach, that would mean oclt would be targeting it also and it would drop fc.
not a bad idea IMO, their overnight FC holds better than anything I saw here in a while, so that 'dust' must be something else.
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the FC level in that experiment was insanely high- they got 1600ppm in that teaspoon
A lot of things begin oxidizing at such concentrations.So is it or is it not possible to pass the OCLT with Mustard Algae? I thought I read on the forum that you could pass the OCLT and still have Mustard Algae, but based on some of the responses it seems like some are saying it couldn't be any type of algae and still pass the OCLT. In this particular case it doesn't sound like Mustard Algae because of his higher FC levels and it is still not going away.
Not all algaecides include copper. Also, if you use algaecide as a compliment and not a crutch (meaning you keep your chlorine where it needs to be regardless), it can be a nice 1-2 punch if you are so inclined. My pool is irregular shaped and no matter what I do I have dead spots in it. Algaecide helps me.
I have passed mine numerous times with the mustard algae in there. Only time I see the chlorine drop at all is when using an algaecide that is killing it. I have tried the SLAM method with no dent in the algae whatsoever. It is very resistant to chlorine. Only time I have seen any difference at all is when using copper algaecide which goes against the grain here and then my pressure jumps and the chlorine drops and it DIES.
17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
Have been at SLAM levels for a week straight and saw some difference in algae but it seemed to adjust to the levels somehow and then came back. Have been very diligent with it, bleaching toys, removing steps, brushing twice a day but have had it about 5 years now if that makes a difference. What honestly worked for me was once I was at mustard shock level, and passed the OCLT test and started letting the FC drop again, once I noticed it was still there, I hit it with a copper algaecide. Again, against the grain here, but it worked. I have not seen it back yet. Using a Taylor K-2006 kit and was religiously testing my water including getting the CYA number and SLAM values correct.
17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
that is quite a story but we never seen algae 'adjusting' to FC, I don't see how is that possible. The only assumption I'm trying to verify here is what OP is observing is indeed algae. If it is then classic TFP SLAM is applicable if not- it should filter out.
Your other thread where you were doing SLAM doesn't look similar. I haven't participated there much but only 4 days ago you were losing 4 ppm overnight (if we account for SWG running), hardly end of the SLAM IMO. I also don't see reference to the test kit you used there and it's not listed in your signature, making it hard to conclude anything. Copper (or other type) algaecide should never be required, we have quite a large number of pools in different climate zones which use plain TFPC without problems.
I don't think it is possible to pass OCLT with algae present. Having said that we should look closely how one does testing when someone claims it happens. For example- pump is not running and one part of the pool has algae while testing sample is taken from another part of the pool where there's no algae. I don't know how fast chlorine self-mixes throughout the pool based on concentration difference of 2 ppm and if that speed is slow you can miss FC loss in such case. What often happens ppl quit SLAM prematurely and use algaecide to finish the process. It might look like it's working but we also observed more than once the algae comes back later. I'd stick to SLAM exclusively as algae killing method.
OP: - any updates on if that stuff started to grow in your jar you put next to the pool and the pool state in general?
Sorry everyone, been traveling with very limited access to a computer. I'm catching up on everything everyone has posted. Someone has been staying at my house and continuing the treatment while I was away. My current situation is this...FC is currently 15. I continued with the SLAM process for 7-8 days with FC anywhere from 26-40. I went out tonight, brushed the pool and all sidewalls and floor is coated, water is crystal clear. MY SWG is running again and seems to be working. The sample of whatever it is, does react to bleach of varying quantities. But like I said, traveling so didn't have much time to test what level actually seems to kill it. There's plenty more in the pool now so I can continue testing.
Did it start growing in that jar next to the pool? I understand the point of that experiment was to see if it's alive or not, not to kill it outright.
I have used algaecides in the past per recommendation of the pool store I was going to. They have always been the Poly 60 type, never any with copper. I have a bottle with copper sitting on my counter and I'm half tempted to try it. I've tried most everything else.
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Yes, it seemed to get worse in the sample by the pool.
if it's alive then chlorine should kill it. If it doesn't kill then something must be preventing it from doing its job. At this point I'd drain/refill to 'reset' my situation to standard: you don't want to fight this moving forward.