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Thread: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
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    Hiram, GA
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    chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    Following are my test results for last week:

    FC = 10 ppm
    PH = 7.9 (added 46 oz muriatic acid)
    CYA = 80 ppm
    TA = 120 ppm
    Salt 3200 ppm

    Today (1 week later)
    FC = 8 ppm
    PH = >8 ppm
    CYA = 70 ppm
    TA = 110 ppm
    Salt 3300 ppm

    My SWG is running at 50% for 12 hours a day. I'm confused about chlorine/CYA. I've seen different charts on the sight. I don't know what to change. eg. the length of time running, the percentage. And, the CYA and TA have dropped on their own.

    Also, maybe I should mention my pool is in direct sunlight and is usually around 92%. According to my test kit, I need to add acid again. Should I try to lower my TA first?
    18,"x 36",IG, vinyl, SWG, Hayward Aqua plus with remote, Jandy cartridge filter, polaris 280, Hiram, GA

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    TFP Guide

    AimeeH's Avatar
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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    Hi there

    How's the water look?

    Adding MA to lower your PH will also lower your TA. I'm going to suspect the CYA change might be testing error unless you exchanged a lot of water. Can you add what test kit you are using to your signature?
    18*36*23 true "L" vinyl IG 29,000 gallons. SWG. TF-100 test kit.
    http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    I'm using the taylor k-2005.

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    Right now, focus on pH and FC. Lower pH right away using muriatic acid. The Poolmath calculator can help you with the correct amount and try to use 7.6 as your pH target. Keep the FC at the 5-6 mark and don't let it drop below 4 at this time. Aimee's question about your water clarity is key because if you suspect any algae (cloudiness, green, etc) then a TFP "SLAM" is in order (link below). SO that will change a couple things.

    Also, if you only have the K-2005, your FC testing will be limited. By adding THIS ITEM you'll essentially convert your K-2005 to a K-2006 test kit. I'd make that a priority for accurate FC testing.

    Stay close to the links below in my sig and they'll help you along the way. Hope that helps.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    The water looks beautiful. I may not be reading the cyanuric acid test correctly. I'm not sure how obscure the back dot should be. Is it normal to have to add that much MA?

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    Pennypat- do you go a week between tests? When you add MA to drop your pH and TA, do you re-test later that day or the next to determine if it met your goal?

    Your FC is just a smidgeon high.. While it is your ideal of 6ppm, I always run mine 1 or 2ppm over my ideal to cover the normal-day-in-the-sun-expected drop in FC. So if you want you could drop your % down or run time down some, but keep an eye on your FC more than once a week, 'k?

    Yip
    My Amazon Smile for November12K Fiberglass IG, Infinity 4000 automatic cover, SWCG, Hayward Sand Filter, Hayward 1.5 Pump, Doheny Discovery Robot, Savi Melody LED pool lights, outdoor speakers and other assorted doo-dads. Sundance Altamar Hot Tub.
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  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: chlorine/CYA & PH/alkalinity

    Actually, I've been waiting a week. I'll try testing sooner after the adjustment. And, I'm going to update my test kit. Thanks

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