Just ordered my Stenner

glo76

0
Bronze Supporter
Jun 3, 2015
95
Missouri City, TX
After battling with an unreliable chlorinator and a couple of algae outbreaks this past year, I've decided to invest in a Stenner. Ordered from Locke Well & Pump who seemed to have a better price than US Water Systems for the setup after shipping. Ordered the 45MPHP10, 220V, 1/4 UV Black, Rain Roof, and 15 Gallon UV Gray tank.

I've read a ton of Stenner install threads and I think I understand how I'll need to install, but just want some confirmation. I'm going to wire a 220V outlet to be controlled by my Easytouch - I have 2 unused relays (Aux 6 and 7). In the rats nest of my load center (picture), top row on the left side are the two spare relays. Bottom row, left relay is the one linked to my pump button, but since I have an Intelliflo I guess that doesn't actually control the pump. Instead it looks like the electrical supply for my gas heater is wired to that relay, on a 220V circuit. Also on that circuit, but wired to different relays, are my vacuum booster pump and air blower.

So for wiring a 220V outlet off Aux 6, linked to the VS pump run time, I'll be wiring the load sides of the Pump relay to the line sides of the Aux 6 relay? Then the load sides of the Aux 6 to the outlet....correct?

Next question about the injection point: My plumbing is very tight and I don't have space to insert a tee fitting without removing the chlorinator entirely, even then it'd be a tight fit. I noted that some people have plumbed into one of the ports in their 320 inline chlorinator. Do you still run water through the chlorinator when doing that? Any issues with the check valve not allowing the chamber to empty?

I've read the warnings about not mixing chlorine sources. I'm wondering if anyone has removed the chlorinator tower, then capped the top of the chlorinator tee and used that for an injection point? I'm thinking of using a 1.5" FPT-Slip adapter, and a 1.5" Slip x 0.5" FPT reducer bushing, to make a 'cap' on top of the tee where the chlorinator tower was. That way the tower itself can be stored and reused if required. Only downside I can see with that is the injection point would be quite high up, out of the flow, but it'll be pointing downwards, so doesn't seem like it would be an issue?

Anyway excited to get my hands on the Stenner and start the installation.....sure I'll probably have more questions as I go!

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On my chlorinator, the adjustment is in the bottom hole. I ran my injection point in the top hole. The injector tip is long and prevents someone from using tabs in it. I don't have what ever that clear elbow section is in your photo.
 
Reddogdan - the clear section coming from the bottom of diverter tee is a flow indicator for my chlorinator, I put it in to get a visual indicator that I was getting flow through the unit (turns out, I wasn't about half of the time). Or do you mean up near the top port? In which case it's the check valve after my heater, photo perspective makes it look like it's connected to the chlorinator control valve, but it's not. So do you still circulate water through your chlorinator to mix with the liquid chlorine from the Stenner inside the chamber?

Steve #1 - I've considered tapping but would prefer a non-destructive solution if possible. If I get the tapping wrong it'll take a lot of work to rectify and my pool builder didn't leave me a lot of room to work....
 
Yes I still run my Stenner thru my chlorinator. I know there has been some concern with some that it could be dangerous. Injecting thru the top hole blocks the entrance for3" tabs. I have seen some on here install in the bottom hole and I understand the concern.
 
As far as the injection point, IMHO, the easiest and most effective way to do it is to drill and tap one of the unions (where you have a layer of union and pipe) on the return line and be done with it.

Totaly agree easiest way to do it. It also leaves the puck chlorinator to use later, like to add CYA via pucks.

- - - Updated - - -

Reddogdan - the clear section coming from the bottom of diverter tee is a flow indicator for my chlorinator, I put it in to get a visual indicator that I was getting flow through the unit (turns out, I wasn't about half of the time). Or do you mean up near the top port? In which case it's the check valve after my heater, photo perspective makes it look like it's connected to the chlorinator control valve, but it's not. So do you still circulate water through your chlorinator to mix with the liquid chlorine from the Stenner inside the chamber?

Steve #1 - I've considered tapping but would prefer a non-destructive solution if possible. If I get the tapping wrong it'll take a lot of work to rectify and my pool builder didn't leave me a lot of room to work....

I practiced a few times on a spare piece of PVC pipe. It really is easy to do once you try it on practice piece. In fact you have the perfect place to do it just to the left of puck feeder on the elbow!
 
Practicing is definitely a good idea if I have to go as far as tapping. So you'd tap into the one of the elbows after the feeder and after the tee? From what I can gather, that tee splits the flow between my pool returns (on the check valve return line) and a couple of spa returns (on the ball valve return line). If I tap the elbow downstream of that, all the fresh chlorine would go to the pool returns, and none to the spa. Anyway I was thinking if I tapped, it should be before that tee (or on the neck of the tee) so both my pool and spa get the same feed of chlorine. Then again maybe it's only a tiny increase in chlorine and doesn't matter?
 
Cool - thanks. I have a similar setup (raised spa with spillway). I ended up making up an injection fitting made up of a 1.5" threaded coupling and 1.5"x0.5" reducer bushing so all I have to do is unscrew the tablet feeder for the chlorinator and screw my fitting on. If I want to put the tablet feeder back it's easy and I don't have to worry about screwing up tapping a hole into my pipe. Will see how that works out. Wiring a dedicated 220V outlet off my auxiliary relay was pretty easy to do in the end, once I'd figured out the wiring inside my load center. Just waiting for the equipment to arrive....took almost a week to ship as apparently the tank wasn't in stock despite the website claiming it was, but should be here Tuesday. Everything else is ready to go. Will post some pictures once it's all done.
 

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Re: Just ordered my Stenner: UPDATED: Done!

Received my pump and tank this evening. Pump and suction line already mounted to the tank just had to connect the discharge line. Had done all the ground work (electrical, plumbing, pad) so this was a very simple install. Most time spent dealing with 10 individual gallons of bleach....

For the injection point I ended up removing my chlorinator tower and installing a combination adapter/reducer bushing in it's place. If I or someone else chooses to go back to trichlor at any time I can simply reinstall the tower.

Tested and all seems to work fine. Have the 220V outlet running off my Easy Touch and I have schedules set up to run morning and evening, plus a 30 minutes egg timer when it needs a small boost. Currently set up for 75 minutes which should be around 3.3 ppm per day using 10%.

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Strange....was using Google Photos and it seemed like it was working fine before. Not sure what's going on. Switched to Flickr and hopefully these work.

Came back tonight and FC levels same as they were yesterday evening, so pretty close with my timing it seems.

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Thanks rphpool! I saw some of your posts and they helped me a lot in understanding how to wire the 220V outlet into my EasyTouch - being able to do that work myself was a key factor in convincing me to go with the Stenner. I love the convenience of being able to use my wireless handheld to run an egg timer on the Stenner if my FC is a little low.
 
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