can I use a compression coupling on the discharge?

[dannieboiz]

Need to install my SWG but the current plumbing isn't suitable. I need to dig a little down and cut the discharge side a little bit under ground. Since there isn't much meat on the pvc, I don't want to risk gluing it then having to do some work again later and have to dig deeper. Can I use a compression coupling there?

Homewerks Worldwide 1-1/2 in. PVC Compression Coupling-511-43-112-112H - The Home Depot

 

[zea3]

I don't know how well it will hold up. It is not rated for underground installation. If you post a picture of your equipment pad someone may have a suggestion on how to plumb it in without digging up pipes.

 

[pooldv]

From a working pressure perspective it is fine.

 

[dannieboiz]

Here's a photo of what I'm working with.... 3/4" loop you see there was for the booster pump for the polaris which I no longer need. I'm just going to cap off the return.

Red Box on wall is where I plan on putting the controller. As you can see the pump has been cut there once before, I don't want to have to do it once more. Also what's the best way to cut the pvc below ground like what I have?

YELLOW BOX = Cell
GREEN BOX = Flow switch
Red Line is where the new plumbing will go. Also is there any reason why my discharge from the filter to the heater has to run zigzag like that? Couldn't I go one straight line across?

 

[zea3]

You have quite a bit of above ground pipe to work with, I'm not understanding why you want to dig down to cut into the pvc.

 

[rphpool]

I do not think zig zag will hurt anything. You can put it on pipe marked with blue arrow / line ( easy way ).

 

[BestJoeyEver]

Are you wanting to realign the pipe because that what looks to be a gas line is in the way? It's hard to tell how close it is to the pvc

Sent from a tiny keyboard.

 

[pool&spatech]

There is something called a cable saw, it is approx 2' length of thin wire with two plastic handles on each end of the wire, that you hold when sawing through the pipe, it can be positioned under the pvc coupling closest to the ground by placing the cable around the back of the pipe right below the coupling, when you are ready to cut the pipe you will sit in front of the pipe, with enough dirt removed so that you have enough room to rapidly cut the pvc with a back n forth motion with plenty of clearance so your hands wont get cut on dirt,rocks,etc that may be in the way, more dirt has to be removed in order to produce a straight cut across the pipe , otherwise the cut will angle up possibly cutting part of the coupling, the key to using a cable saw is simple "do not stop the sawing motion until the pipe is cut" if you stop at half way through the heat created by the cable to melt the pipe as it cuts through will cause the wire to jam and lock up, and its difficult or impossible to continue without breaking the cable, these saws are cheap and buying two or three is advised. just expose enough dirt from the hole you have to work the saw, it wont be to much dirt that needs to still come out just a foot or so wider type thing.

 

[pool&spatech]

Don't get caught up in all the talk about friction loss, fluid dynamics,etc. when you plumb, i can tell you from experience that to much emphasis gets put on minimizing using 90' elbows, this, that, and the other thing,and the advice about it usually doesn't come from someone who has plumbed pvc for 30 years, when you have to plumb something into an existing configuration such as yours, don't worry if there is 2,3,more of whatever to do the job, those compression couplings, and adding union's every 2' to everything, are crutches, and quick ways out of doing a proper plumbing job, but taking the time to hard plumb, like it is from the grey union on the heater return, all the way to the pipe your cutting below the ground, even if there are a few more 90's etc. is still a lot better than seeing unions and cheap gimmicks glued everywhere, now i am not talking about the unions on your salt cell, or the heater, pump,etc, i am talking about the ones you see between pvc pipe that say nothing more than...i am not willing to think this out, and this will work...take your time, approach it like legos or something, dry fit things as you go, take your time!

 

[Isaac-1]

Don't expect that compression coupling to be a long term solution, the black rubber compression seals in them tend to break down after a couple of years and they will start to leak.