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Thread: Basic pool plumbing question

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    Basic pool plumbing question



    I am trying to learn about what valves control everything, above is the return side. Right after the SWG, there is a manual valve then a loop on the left side which also has a check valve then a automated valve. On the right of the automated valve there is two return pipes with another manual valve.

    So I am guessing that since I have full automation to control the pool spa that the left side of the automated valve is the SPA return and the right side is the pool return. I also have a deep heat return which I am guessing is the reason I have a manual valve on the pool return side to adjust the flow volume of pool return water between the deep return and the pool wall returns. Sound right?

    what's the purpose of the manual valve before the automated valve, the one near the SWG?

    Picture of the suction side:



    I figure the automated valve off the pump controls Pool and Spa suction, looks to me like the left side is Spa, and the right side is the pool main drains/skimmer (they are tied together) and the manual valve on the right side is for the robot cleaning port?

    just want to get in-front of all of this.

    thanks!
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    The valve by the SWG is a bypass valve to allow a little water flow to the spa to keep the chemistry mixed and spill back into the pool when the automated valve is in "pool mode". The check valve is to prevent the spa water draining back into the pool when the pump is off (I am assuming the spa is elevated above the pool).

    There should be a handle on the automated valve so that you can see the orientation of it.

    The manual valve to the right of the automated valve should NEVER be in the orientation that it is currently in for the photo. That is closing off the flow from the automated valve and if you are in pool mode, that would block all the flow.
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Thanks!! Yes the Spa is elevated.

    There is a handle on the automated valve, just hard to see in the photo. I will change the manual valve direction on the pool return side. No water yet, I was just wanted to learn what everything does and label it. Anybody know of a place to purchase premade pool plumbing labels?
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Most just use a label maker.

    Since you have an automation system you will really never need to use the spa make up valve. The spillway feature will handle that operation for you. The spa make up line is for those with pools/spas without automation so that the pool and spa get circulated/chlorinated continuously as the pump runs.
    -Brian-
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Oh, you are right totally missed the handle on the actuator. That is not a normal position for that valve either. It should either be shutting off the left (spa) pipe of the right (pool) pipe.

    I might disagree with Brian on the make-up valve. Just depends on how the automation is setup. You could just leave it as only pool or spa mode and use the make-up when in pool mode. OR set it up to run a Spill over mode briefly each day to mix the spa water.
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Thanks, so the "make-up" valve is the manual valve next to the SWG. So I am guessing that it should be opened 50% so water returns to both the spa and pool or wide open to the pool side or spa side? Really dumb question but if is open only to the pool side how does return water get to the spa? During the run cycle do the valves open automatically to ensure flow to both?
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Not exactly, you would likely only crack the makeup valve a little to allow a small amount of water into the spa when running in pool mode.
    OR
    If your automation is going to run in spill over mode some each day. The suction valve would stay on the pool and the return valve would switch to the spa so that all the flow would go into the spa and spill over into the pool.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    You would set up a schedule for the spillway to run for 30 mins a day to circulate and chlorinate the spa.

    The reason I recommend doing it this way is to greatly reduce aeration(pH rise) and limit the deposits from forming around the spillway.

    Most spas are around 1000 gallons so providing a continuous return of water to the spa for the entire pump runtime takes away from the water returned to the pool that would otherwise help with directing debris to the skimmer(s).

    Most importantly, the actual spillway appearance would leave much to be desired since the flow rate is so much less than what it was originally intended to have.
    -Brian-
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Thanks, I am sure I will be checking in with you guys next tues/weds when the pool is filled.
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    If you have not ordered a Recommended Test Kit I suggest you do so ASAP so you start off on the right foot
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle View Post
    If you have not ordered a Recommended Test Kit I suggest you do so ASAP so you start off on the right foot
    A TL-100 kit with a auto mixer is on the way to me now, I got the XL kit.
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
    TF-100, Doheny Discovery robot.

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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Nice
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Question on the suction side. I have a manual value on the pool side of the automated valve before the pump, lolks like its for the robot cleaner. How is this valve set? In other words, do i need to make choice on the robot vs the skimmer/main drain suction? Or do i open it 50% so both are working?
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
    TF-100, Doheny Discovery robot.

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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    You would set it for both if you plan on leaving the cleaner in 24/7 the cleaner probably won't need a full 50% but you will have to experiment to know for sure. If you take the cleaner out then it is a good idea to divert the rest to the skimmer/MD for maximum skimming.
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Thanks
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    So equipment just started up. Start up guy gets the pump going on schedule, i am hearing a sound like little pebbles in the line on the return side actually can feel something at the valve next to the heater on the return side, sound like and feels like pebbles bouncing around in the line???? (See first photo above) Odd because wouldnt all the water go through the pump and filter first. Perhaps this is normal, but it sounds odd.

    Second, at night with the light on i could see some air bubbles on a couple returns in the pool. During the day i could not see this? Are some bubbles normal.
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    The pebble sound could be cavitation which is bad for the pump and needs to be fixed. It is normal to have a few bubbles out of one or two returns when the SWG is on. But, salt shouldn't be added to a new pool for 30 days.
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    Is it the internal bypass for the heater you are hearing?

    There is going to be some debris in the pipes from when all the plumbing was installed.

    It's also going to be amazing how many pebbles get filtered out over the next few months.
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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    I think it may be the bypass, It was not happening on the higher pump speed. This morning I could not hear it.

    Now here is the big question, I noticed an air bubble in the pump basket when the pump is on low speed 2000RPM. I also saw a few tiny, tiny bubbles coming out of my deep heat return at night with the lights on, saw nothing during the day. So I shut down the pump, purged the air out on filter took the pump lid off checked the o-ring, no dirt or anything. I reinstalled, started up it primed, and I left the air valve open until only water came out. no air bubbles for a while then I saw some. I tightened the couplings on the suction side and tightened the drains on the pump. I still see a few tiny bubbles, I mean I thought it was dust, on the one return. on high speed no bubbles in the pump. I picked up some Teflon grease and will put some on the pump lid o-ring. Any other suggestions, I am hoping it's not underground.

    Thank you!
    33x19, 3'4"-5'6", 7ft spa, baja reef, 14'x9', 18" deep, 10,668 Gal. Quartzite coping, Stonescape Tropics Blue mini-pebble, abalone & glass beads. Jandy Equip.(JXi heater, 2.7HPVS pump, PLC1400 SWG, CV580 filter, Aqualink, LEDs)
    TF-100, Doheny Discovery robot.

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    Re: Basic pool plumbing question

    It's normal to have some air especially on low pump speeds.
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