Green Algae, HELP!

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R

ResQDiver

0
Jul 15, 2016
15
Clark, NJ
We have a 14' x 48" Intex round pool. We set it up this year for the very first time, we ended up getting an Algae bloom after our FC dropped to nil. To add insult to injury, someone added double the recommended CYA stabilizer. We have shocked 5 days in a row and performed a 25% water change. We are now executing a 50% water change and will be adding Leslie's Pool Clear enzymatic clearer.

Anyone have any advice for me? The water changes should drop out CYA levels back towards acceptable and will allow the chlorine to do its job. The Intex filters suck.... Any advice on a reasonable filter/pump upgrade on a $200 pool?


Mike
 
ResQDiver said:
We have a 14' x 48" Intex round pool. We set it up this year for the very first time, we ended up getting an Algae bloom after our FC dropped to nil. To add insult to injury, someone added double the recommended CYA stabilizer. We have shocked 5 days in a row and performed a 25% water change. We are now executing a 50% water change and will be adding Leslie's Pool Clear enzymatic clearer.

Anyone have any advice for me? The water changes should drop out CYA levels back towards acceptable and will allow the chlorine to do its job. The Intex filters suck.... Any advice on a reasonable filter/pump upgrade on a $200 pool?


Mike, RN
Click to expand...
First, don't bother with the Leslie's Pool Clear enzymatic clearer. You are right at the edge of a Seasonal/Temporary Pool, so you can follow one of the following guides:

Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

OR

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
 
By SLAM.......we mean it to be a process. Not one or just doses of a chemical.

Shock
Level
And
Maintain

You need to bring your chlorine level up to shock level for your CYA and keep it there until you pass all three tests. You want to re-dose chlorine as often as reasonably possible to keep it at shock level. See link for refresher.

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

And welcome to TFP :wave:
 
ResQDiver said:
I've slammed 5 days in a row. It's still green and a film is forming on top now when I skim.


Mike, RN
Click to expand...
Did you add that Leslie's potion?

How are you testing this pool? A SLAM is not 'guessing' where your levels are. Your pool is big enough to justify a proper test kit.

I actually like my Intex sand filter. It keeps the (clear) water clean & has enough power to vacuum & run a few solar panels.

With that said, the replacement will be much larger so I don't have to backwash as often.

Dom
 
We didn't add it yet... Our current test kit goes to 5 ppm of FC, it was measured as a 7.7 on a better kit. My kit is coming to allow me to measure up tom10 ppm. I'm SLAMming with enough shock to treat 4 times the size of our pool due to the high CYA levels. We are draining it 50% and gonna slam once again.


Mike
 
ResQDiver said:
W didn't add it yet... Our current test kit goes to 5 ppm of FC, it was measured as a 7.7 on a better kit. My kit is coming to allow me to measure up tom10 ppm. I'm SLAMming with enough shock to treat 4 times the size of our pool due to the high CYA levels. We are draining it 50% and gonna slam once again.


Mike, RN
Click to expand...
You really should have gotten a FAS/DPD chlorine test, that will very accurately measure FC up to 50ppm, and does not rely on color matching.

Pool School - Test Kits Compared

A test that only goes up to 10ppm will not measure high enough for SLAM levels (the min recommended CYA of 30ppm requires a shock FC of 12ppm), or the maintenance FC for CYA above 80ppm.

What test kit did you get? I'm guessing it is a DPD test if it goes to 10ppm FC. A DPD FC test will not be accurate enough for the OCLT either, which is required for completing a SLAM.

Does your new kit check all of the following?:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Dom
 
Last edited:
domct203 said:
You really should have gotten a FAS/DPD chlorine test, that will very accurately measure FC up to 50ppm, and does not rely on color matching.

Pool School - Test Kits Compared

A test that only goes up to 10ppm will not measure high enough for SLAM levels (the min recommended CYA of 30ppm requires a shock FC of 12ppm), or the maintenance FC for CYA above 80ppm.

What test kit did you get? I'm guessing it is a DPD test if it goes to 10ppm FC. A DPD FC test will not be accurate enough for the OCLT either, which is required for completing a SLAM.

Does your new kit check all of the following?:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Dom
Click to expand...

Yes, I didn't participate in the selection of the crappy kit. The new one was recommended here! It's a Taylor.


Mike, RN
 
ResQDiver said:
Yes, I didn't participate in the selection of the crappy kit. The new one was recommended here! It's a Taylor.


Mike, RN
Click to expand...
The only Taylor kit we recommend is the K2006, which is a FAS/DPD test that will measure up to 50ppm.

I don't understand your "crappy kit" comment.

Taylor makes a lot of test kits, which one do you have? Is it the K2005?

Dom
 

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domct203 said:
The only Taylor kit we recommend is the K2006, which is a FAS/DPD test that will measure up to 50ppm.

I don't understand your "crappy kit" comment.

Taylor makes a lot of test kits, which one do you have? Is it the K2005?

Dom
Click to expand...

I just found out the truth, my mother-in-law has been mismanaging the pool. She bought a cheap tester kit from Amazon that only measures pH, FC (to 5), and acid/base demand. I ordered a Taylor K-2006 Kit and am awaiting delivery.
The pool store last measured our CYA at 116. She let the chlorine drop off to nil, then added double the CYA and wonders why chlorine isn't getting rid of the algae. I just found out she is randomly adding other chemicals that she "thinks" will help as opposed to actual science.

we are proceeding to do a 100% water change being its a small pool at 4000 gallons, after which I will be the only one managing the pool. Does anyone have any reboot recommendations for getting his pool stable with fresh water? I'm reading household bleach is best for a chlorine source. Which is the best CYA product there. All suggestions welcome.

Mike
 
ResQDiver said:
I just found out the truth, my mother-in-law has been mismanaging the pool. She bought a cheap tester kit from Amazon that only measures pH, FC (to 5), and acid/base demand. I ordered a Taylor K-2006 Kit and am awaiting delivery.
The pool store last measured our CYA at 116. She let the chlorine drop off to nil, then added double the CYA and wonders why chlorine isn't getting rid of the algae. I just found out she is randomly adding other chemicals that she "thinks" will help as opposed to actual science.

we are proceeding to do a 100% water change being its a small pool at 4000 gallons, after which I will be the only one managing the pool. Does anyone have any reboot recommendations for getting his pool stable with fresh water? I'm reading household bleach is best for a chlorine source. Which is the best CYA product there. All suggestions welcome.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike,

Just like chlorine is chlorine, CYA is CYA. As long as the label give a % above 90% it's fine to buy. Most of us get it at any big box store (WalMart, Lowes or Home Depot) in he seasonal pool care section.

Even with a full drain/refill you will need to SLAM the pool once full again. You may have algae hiding in the pump, filter, pipes or other nooks & crannies of the pool.

So day one of refill -
Assuming you have already cleaned filter, turn pump on - run 24/7
Add chlorine to shock level figuring CYA "0"
Put CYA to get to 30 in a sock and suspend in the water in front of a return
Adjust pH to 7.2
Brush entire pool

Day 2 and forward -
Assume CYA is 30 and adjust chlorine to new shock level
Brush pool
Repeat testing and adjusting FC to shock level as often as possible during the day

After sunset day 2
Adjust chlorine to shock level
Wait 30 minutes and take FC reading

Before sunrise Day 3
Take FC reading - how much did you lose overnight?
 
At the bottom of PoolMath is a section called Effects of Adding Chems. Enter the puck wt, and type, usually trichlor. With gallons entered at the top. It will tell you how much FC and CYA it will add to your pool.
 
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