My Union nut that connects to the diverter valve has finally cracked. I was able to remove the pipe from the pump. I think the pump just does not fit flush on the diverter valve receiving end. Is it ok to have an elbow or two plumbed to the intake port of pump or does it have to be a straight pipe running into the pump from the diverter valve? Maybe I should use flexible tubing by screwing a nipple into the intake port and a if they have a nipple that attaches to the diverter valve. I have to get it fixed tomorrow so the water can circulate.
Pool pump plumbing question
- Thread starter markuszoom5
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,798
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello Mark. I see you haven't gotten any bites on your thread yet. It's been a couple days so you might already have this completed. But in general .. yes, the ideal way would be to have about 6 " or so of straight pipe going to your intake. Flexible tubing can be a little tricky and unpredictable, so I'd be careful with that as well. If you still need help, let us know or perhaps post a pic of your set-up so we can see it better. Maybe some others will reply after bumping this thread up a bit. 
Yea, thanks..I was going to 1/2 - a.. it until the weekend and then redo it but I ended up going to buy all the parts from the pool store and they guy said he would do it for $80 if I buy all the stuff from them and give them the old pump. I honestly did not need the old pump anyway since it burned out. So I got a good deal on it all $668 all together and new valves and plumbing. I had no time to do it myself unfortunately.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,798
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus