Stabalizer (CYA) high

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jayb1rd

0
May 26, 2009
8
Lombard, IL
Hello all! I've had a pool for about 3 summers going on 4. The 1st 2 summers were pretty good. Followed the store recommended maintenance and was pretty happy (although pretty broke too). Last summer was when I started having major issues with my pool (mainly turning cloudy and green) even while sticking to the recommended maintenance. I will admit though that I was not familiar at all with the pool chemistry, was just testing with strips and adding whatever was recommended by the pool store. Basically the last half of the summer the pool was useless because nobody wants to go into a green/cloudy pool. I finally gave up and closed it under frustration.

After doing some research the last few weeks and running across this wonderful site I think I found out why I've been having issues (which I will explain) and was looking for some more advice.

For weekly maintenance I've been using the 3" Chlorine tabs and shocking with Chlor Brite all bought from Leslies. Apparently, after reading through this site (and others), using these products will slowly raise the stabilizer (CYA). I never really paid attention to this reading/test as the pool store said to just pay attention to the PH, ALK, FC. So even when I would go and shock my pool last summer, and use 2 or 3 times the amount of chlorine to shock, I was seeing no results. This year when I opened my pool and after cleaning out all the leaves/junk and running the filter for a few hours, i tested the Stabilizer(with strips) and was at about 150(which is why I am assuming my efforts last summer didn't do anything). Per the recommendations of this site and others I drained about 60 - 70% of the pool, refilled, ran the pump for about 2 hours, retested with a better test kit and still reading around 100.

I really don't want to drain the pool that much again. I saw the chart under pool school for how much Bleach I need to add with the CYA at 100 (about 7 96oz jugs) and was wondering if that will truly work to clear up the cloudiness/green tint with the CYA at 100? I was thinking of trying to get it cleared up 1st and then slowly remove more water over time during filter cleaning/maintenance. Any thoughts? Any healp is much appreciated.

Todays readings:

TH: 250
TC: 10
FC: 5
PH: 7.2
TA: 120
CYA: 100



I
 
I strongly recommend that you replace enough water to get your CYA level under 100. The standard CYA test can read CYA levels over 100 as if they were 100, so you don't really know how high your CYA level actually is.

While it is possible to fight algae at extremely high CYA levels, it takes astronomical amounts of chlorine and takes a fair bit of time, and you need to have a better ideal of what your CYA level really is before you start.
 
A 50-60% drain and refill should take care of it, but it is difficult to be completely sure. If you have a test kit where you measure CYA by adding the water reagent mix to a tube until the black dot disappears, you can do the test again with dilution to get a better idea of what your CYA level really is.

Mix one part of pool water with one equal part of tap water, then use that to do the CYA test. Multiply the result of the test by two to get your approximate CYA level between 100 and 200. If the reading is close to 100, then a 30-40% replacement will be fine. If the reading is right up around 200 then you might need to replace even more water.
 
I've been where you are my friend. My CYA was over 100, and 2 partial drains, about 1 foot down at a time, brought me to 70. This was much easier to manage. With Cart filters you don't replace water at the same rate as backwashing sand filters. So you are better off draining now.

Good luck, you're on the road to pool store recovery. :goodjob:
 
Ok. So I did your recommended test for CYA. Took one part pool water and 1 part tap water. Tests at about 60, times 2 = 120. So it sounds like what this test is telling me that if I take out 50% of the water I will still be at 120%. Is that right or am I missing something. Excuse the chemistry ignorance. :cry:
 
jayb1rd said:
Ok. So I did your recommended test for CYA. Took one part pool water and 1 part tap water. Tests at about 60, times 2 = 120. So it sounds like what this test is telling me that if I take out 50% of the water I will still be at 120%. Is that right or am I missing something. Excuse the chemistry ignorance. :cry:
Click to expand...

No, if you replace your water by about 50% you should be around 60. That's certainly more workable.
 

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Well...I have to say, I'm impressed. I used the pool calculator to shock my pool with bleach from walmart after getting my stabilizer down to about 70 - 80ppm and presto!!! I could see the bottom of my pool the next morning. Vacuumed and brushed and the next day my pool was sparkling. I have not seen my pool like this in awhile. This site is a blessing for any pool owner. Thanks much. No more spending so much money at the local pool store either! :-D :-D :-D
 
jayb1rd said:
Well...I have to say, I'm impressed. I used the pool calculator to shock my pool with bleach from walmart after getting my stabilizer down to about 70 - 80ppm and presto!!! I could see the bottom of my pool the next morning. Vacuumed and brushed and the next day my pool was sparkling. I have not seen my pool like this in awhile. This site is a blessing for any pool owner. Thanks much. No more spending so much money at the local pool store either! :-D :-D :-D
Click to expand...

Jayb1rd...do you have a Great Escape pool store near you in Lombard...I live in NW Indiana and I just picked up at the Merrillville store 2 cases of 4 bottles of 12 percent chlorine for 9.79 a case. I would go ahead and start stocking up their...you won't find 12% much cheaper then that if you have a GE store close to you. It is worth it. I only have to add 32 ounces to increase FC 2.4 ppm That is a good deal.
 
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