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Thread: Which valves do I need? New install

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Denham Springs, LA
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    10

    Which valves do I need? New install

    Sunken 24' round AGP - equipment above waterline about 30ft away-
    I plan to install a Jandy check valve before the pump.
    I'm toying with the idea of ball valves between the check valve and pump, between the pump and filter and on the discharge side of the filter -
    Do I need any or all of these ball valves? Will there be a circumstance down the road when servicing in which I'll miss them?
    Just want to make sure I do things the best way the first time-
    Thanks!
    24' round x 52" deep Doughboy Copper Canyon, sunken, 7' deep end
    Hayward SP2602VSP
    Hayward C3030 Cartridge Filter
    Denham Springs, LA

  2. Back To Top    #2
    needsajet's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Re: Which valves do I need? New install

    Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here

    A check valve as close to the pool as possible will aid priming after maintenance, but that pump should prime just fine with a basket full of water, unless it's quite a bit higher than the pool. During normal operation, the check valve is not needed as long as everything is tight at the equipment pad. If air can't get in, water can't get out.

    A check valve as the last thing before an inline chlorinator or acid injector (which should be last thing before the pool returns) is a good idea to prevent acidity from diffusing back into other equipment.

    Check valves can mask problems that should be fixed anyway. I put one on my intake line, near the pool, but I have a sand filter, and if my spider gasket goes while I'm away, I wanted extra insurance my pump will catch. Most people would call it overkill because the pump is only 3 feet above the pool water and about 20' from where there would be water in the pipe, so I'll probably end up removing the flapper from it.

    For a single intake, there's no need for a valve on the suction line with equipment above pool. In fact, better not to have one because ball valves have a narrow throat that constricts flow, adding to friction loss.

    For other spots you want to valve, use pool valves that have a rotary gate which opens wider than a ball valve, are easily fixed, and don't get difficult to turn.

    I'm not familiar with cartridge filters, so I'll leave that one for others.

    Just a few thoughts to kick your thread back up to the top. There's way better experts here than me, and I humbly defer to them all!!
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Denham Springs, LA
    Posts
    10

    Re: Which valves do I need? New install

    Needs quiet, Thank you for the response!
    Sounds like leaving the check valve out may be the way to go.

    Does anyone else have a suggestion for ball valves at all? Maybe between pump/filter or on discharge?
    24' round x 52" deep Doughboy Copper Canyon, sunken, 7' deep end
    Hayward SP2602VSP
    Hayward C3030 Cartridge Filter
    Denham Springs, LA

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Tucson, AZ
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    37,389

    Re: Which valves do I need? New install

    You do not need any ball valves after the pump. Use a good flapper check valve before the pump if the pump is well above the water level, like many feet.

    With a cartridge, would not hurt to put a 3 way valve between the pump and filter for a waste line.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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