Pool heater Fault

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evanwellens

evanwellens

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Jun 9, 2012
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Stony Point, NY
Yesterday got this code from our pool heater. Fuse Link Fault/Field. It's a Jandy Legacy LRZ 399,000 BTU,. Did some googling and didn't find much. I found this in the troubleshooting guide FAULTFUSELINK/FIELD 1. Fusible link fault. 1. Identify and correct loose connections or replace Fusible Link... I believe the attached image points to the part needing replacement. Is there some diagnostic I can do before hand with a multimeter ? Is it just a fuse ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!!
 

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The fusible link is there to protect you in the event the unit over heats. The link literally melts when it gets too hot shut off power to the gas valve/burner control system. If its a loose wire going to the link repair the loose wire. You can troubleshoot the link by testing it for continuity. If the fuse has melted carefully inspect the heater for signs of overheating / call a service tech. If you replace the link and it melts again stop using the heater and have the unit repaired.
 
Thanks for the reply... Interesting .. When I opened the pool up I and ran the heater it had an issue with a varment that made a home inside. I cleaned it out best I could , but since the pool heater's control panel occasionally would go opaque from what I guess is excess heat. Do you think perhaps the varment ate or dug away at some insulation that could be causing this ?
 
Varments certainly do love to chew insulation it seems. They also seem to like using control boards as bathrooms. At least that's been my experience with them. Do your best to look for damage if you cant find any and continue to have issues a service tech may be your best bet.
 
It's called a "rollout switch/fuseable link". It is used to sense if the flames kick out from under and into the front of the cabinet. If this item goes out, there is a reason and usually caused by the flames rolling out into the front of the heater. Make sure you don't have a blockage in the heat exchanger area and or anything on top of the burners. Most likely you have something blocking the heat exchanger from exhausting correctly.
 
Do you have signs of soot near the exhaust? I had this happen a couple months back and it was caused by debris and soot blocking the heat exchanger fins. This blockage caused the inside of the cabinet to get hot enough to melt that fusible link because the heat could not go past the exchanger fins fast enough.

You can take off the black metal covering the exhaust and make sure there's no debris or soot buildup. I used some wire brushes and compressed air to clean the fins on the top of the exchanger. You really can't get to the bottom of the exchanger but this is where the compressed air came in handy, I just blew compressed air from the top and then blew compressed air around the burner tubes to get all the soot out from around the burner tubes.

To double check the fuse is indeed the problem and not the wiring, you can TEMPORARILY connect a wire between the spade connectors in the back of the fuse, if the heater comes on and stays on, you know the fuse is the issue as the temporary wire is basically bypassing the fuse. DO NOT be tempted to leave that temporary wire in place after your test. This is a safety item that shuts the heater off to keep it from getting too hot and damaging the electronics or just catching fire.

Basically, figure out what caused it to get so hot in the first place.

I got my replacement fuse from Amazon.


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Thanks all !!! I guess I need to take a closer look. I think the insulation has been compromised as when I cleaned out the mouse nest there in spring was some crumbly debris. Jandy sent me the part replacement # but it's the entire combustion chamber, not just an insulation panel. Hope I don't have to scrap the unit , it's only 2 years old.. Wish me luck !!!
 
I doubt you need to replace all that. The crumbly debris may have been brought by the mouse from elsewhere.

The design of these heaters is pretty low tech when you think about it. Flame source under fire box and most of the heat escapes thru the exhaust as it passes past the heat exchanger.

I bet most of the insulation is probably to keep the outside of the heater panels from getting too hot that they could burn someone if they touch the heater's metal body.
 
Mice love the insulation inside many units. They will take and chew it up to make a nest. More so on the units that do not use the foam board type of insulator.

Not sure if Jandy has a package where you can just get the refractory material. I can get them for the Raypak but I do not see any of the Jandy units to know if they carry it. If they do, it might just be for service techs since it's a very involved process to replace.
 

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I think the panels also protect the electronics and keep the entering gas line from over heating .. Hopefully there's just an obstruction, otherwise it sounds like an expensive fix. Will know this weekend .. Again thanks all !! This is the best pool site bar none!!!
 
So today replaced the fusible link... No go.. Same error. Found this guide https://www.fwwebb.com/docs/gas/JandyPoolHeaterTroubleshootingGuides.pdf ... Tested up to step 8 , no voltage. Step 7 had voltage but the diagram is oppositely wired with blue on bottom. Perhaps thats a LRZ vs LRZE issue. Guide says replace the PIB. Does that make sense ? Ps got contiuity accross the fusible link as well.
 
Don't you just love the error codes that really don't tell you the real problem. Yes I would suggest trying the PIB replacement. You could call and confirm with Jandy before you purchase and replace it.
 
Soo.. thought I'd write this so perhaps some other poor soul wont go threw the pain I did. As suggested here I opened up the vent again. Didn't expect to find anything since we run the heater almost daily since opening in spring when I cleaned out the vent then. To my surprise a new nest and 3 very well done mice where there. At that point I checked the vent limit switch for continuity and bingo that was the culprit. Not sure why Jandy didn't dedicate a different code/electrical path for that part so the fault would be more clear. Anyway no need to replace the PIB and now I know more about that heater than I should ... ;-)
 
evanwellens said:
Yesterday got this code from our pool heater. Fuse Link Fault/Field. It's a Jandy Legacy LRZ 399,000 BTU,. Did some googling and didn't find much. I found this in the troubleshooting guide FAULTFUSELINK/FIELD 1. Fusible link fault. 1. Identify and correct loose connections or replace Fusible Link... I believe the attached image points to the part needing replacement. Is there some diagnostic I can do before hand with a multimeter ? Is it just a fuse ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!!
Click to expand...
I had same error on my Jandy LRZ pool heater. I replaced both fusealble links (rollout and vent fuse links) with original , part number parts and also replaced control board but still get "fuse link field" error on LCD display. How did you resolve your issue? James Paterson -appreciated any feedback
 
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