Floating Chlorinater Question? CYA Problem.

[Dejavu21]

So, recently my Chlorinater Lid became stuck and I cannot remove, therefore I bought one of the floating chlorinaters until i can get it repaired. I've had it in a little over a week and now my CYA is 150. Could this be the cause of the CYA rise? Anyone have any concerns about these floaters?

 

[atttech-2]

When you say Chlorinate lid is that an inline tablet feeder? Most on here don't use tablets either with floaters or inline dispensers with the possible exception of vacations. Tablets in general cause CYA increase over time, for a pool your size each tablet will increase CYA about 1.3 to 1.5ppm depending on the type, powered shock does the same. If you live in an area where you have to dump water on a regular basis because of rain tablets can work but if you are keeping the same water for long periods of time eventually the CYA gets too high and you are forced to replace some water.

The floater would have raised the CYA but not as high as 150 in a short period of time.

 

[AimeeH]

So, recently my Chlorinater Lid became stuck and I cannot remove, therefore I bought one of the floating chlorinaters until i can get it repaired. I've had it in a little over a week and now my CYA is 150. Could this be the cause of the CYA rise? Anyone have any concerns about these floaters?

When you say chlorinator.......are you referring to a liquid chlorine pump? If it was the kind that also gets fed tablets, then it is the tablets causing your CYA rise. It doesn't matter whether they are in a floater or not.

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

I use a tablet floater when I am away for a week or more. Two weeks ago my CYA was 40ppm and after leaving the floater in with 5 tabs it rose to 70ppm in 7 days. I normally pull the floater when I return and go back to liquid bleach.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk

 

[domct203]

So, recently my Chlorinater Lid became stuck and I cannot remove, therefore I bought one of the floating chlorinaters until i can get it repaired. I've had it in a little over a week and now my CYA is 150. Could this be the cause of the CYA rise? Anyone have any concerns about these floaters?

In your 20K gallon pool, one 8oz trichlor puck will raise FC 2.7ppm & CYA 1.7ppm.

Its not the floater that will raise your CYA, but what you put inside it will.

Does your chlorinator use pucks as well?

How did you get that CYA level result? What test kit are you using?

Dom

 

[Dejavu21]

Domct203, yes I use the 3" tabs in the Chlorine feeder (which is stuck). I used my new TF-100 and also went to Leslies Pools to have them verify. Did i read earlier that most people dont use the tabs?

- - - Updated - - -

Liquid Bleach? Hmmm, i've never heard of that. Do you use that with Chlorinating shock?

- - - Updated - - -

Liquid Bleach? Hmmm, i've never heard of that. Do you use that with Chlorinating shock?

 

[atttech-2]

The 2 main types of chlorination that are widely accepted on this site are salt water generators and liquid chlorine aka bleach. The reason these 2 methods are prefered is they both sanitize with chlorine without adding anything else to the water except a minor amount of salt in the case of the liquid. This keeps the pool from getting over stabilized which can happen with pucks. As has been stated above pucks can work in certain circumstances.

If any of this sounds interesting take a look at these 2 links and ask questions as you have them.
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

No matter what you choose to use knowing what's in it and how it will affect the balance of the pool is important, you are here reading and have a TF-100 so you are on the path to making educated decisions on what to add to the water and when.

 

[Dejavu21]

Thanks ATT. I may move to the liquid and get rid of the pucks. When i went through "Pool School" 4 years ago after the builder finished he pool, he said 3" pucks and a granular chlorine each week.

 

[domct203]

All those puck & granular (if trichlor/dichlor) is what has raised your CYA to an un-manageable level. This is usually where the pool gets away from the owner & turns green, and the pool $tore has you dump in more....

This is why we advocate liquid chlorine, aka bleach.

BTW- the only way to lower CYA is to partial-drain and fill (dilution). With your CYA at 150 (did you use the dilution method?) your maintenance (daily) FC level is 20ppm, with a shock FC level of 60ppm. Let's hope your pool doesn't go green....

If your CYA really is 150ppm I recommend you do a series of smaller drain/refills to lower that CYA. Be mindful of your water table in the area, if you drain the pool lower than the underground water level it could float up out of the ground. This is why we recommend multiple smaller drains. To get your CYA down to 50ppm you will need to exchange about 2/3 of the volume, more if you are doing small exchanges.

Here is the extended CYA test directions for CYA levels over 90ppm:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/24188-Extended-Test-Kit-Directions

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

• Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
• Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
• Shake briefly to mix.
• Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
• Continue the test normally from step 3, but multiply the final result by two.

Following that procedure will give you a more accurate CYA result as the CYA test really tops out at about 90-100ppm.

Dom