Sneaky Mustard Algae?

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Abaker6468

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Jun 8, 2016
66
Mechanicsburg, PA
Have posted before about this but wanted to try again and see if there is anymore insight with this. Will post test results after rant. Anyone know if it is possible to pass the OCLT while having mustard algae? Have passed this test numerous times now and am a bit confused. And yes, before anyone asks, it is mustard algae. All the characteristics are there and it won't go away. Have not done SLAM yet due to hot weather and wanting to enjoy the pool but the minute it cools down here, going to hit it hard. Test test results below.

Cl-12
FC-0
ALK-125
CYA-70
PH-7.5


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Also to add on here, it is mainly in the seams of the liner and when brushed away, comes back in the shade and disappears in the sunlight.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Your question should kick-up quite a discussion. :) But I'll start by saying this to answer you initial question ........ Since the treatment for MA is to perform a regular SLAM first and pass all 3 SLAM criteria BEFORE increasing FC to MA SLAM level (which is only for 24 hours), I would have to say "yes", it is possible to pass an OCLT and still have trace elements of MA in the pool. That's not to say what you are seeing now and brushing away from your seams is MA, only that if someone doesn't follow the precautions on the Pool School - Mustard Algae page "precisely", they could in-fact pass an OCLT only to see MA return again. Most often, MA, like most forms of algae, returns simply because an FC level was allowed to drop too low and/or a hiding place for algae was not identified/cleaned well enough in earlier treatments.

If your test results above are any indication of how you've typically maintained your FC level on a daily basis, I would find it odd for that to be MA. Are you sure it's not just pollen? Regardless, if what you are seeing actually is algae in those seams, a regular SLAM would be in order. Seams are notorious for providing safe refuge for algae because of restricted circulation.
 
And this is why I was postulating about adding PolyQuat 60 to the arsenal for those of us that have had mustard algae
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During some of my research on this one, I found several posts from previous Experts (i.e. Chem Geek) who did comment that "some" situations may benefit from auxiliary treatment of MA, but Poly 60 wasn't necessarily the most ideal choice for MA. I'd have to go back and dig-up those threads, but if you search long enough you'll see some of his comments in other MA threads.
 
I feel for you s1njin. Know exactly how much you despise this stuff especially if it's as much as I do. My story is as such. Found this site long time ago and decided to take matters in my own hands instead of pool store logic. My problem was that I did not know what I was doing nor understand any of the relationships with chlorine/cya and ph/alkalinity. So long story short, chlorine drifted down to unacceptable levels and hence, mustard bloom. Have had this stuff for at least 5 years, possibly longer. Tried everything under the sun to kill this stuff and after hours of brushing and throwing money at it, I finally decided to read and learn everything I could about it here and finally take control of my pool. I understand everything now and the correlation between everything. My only question now is since I have had this for so long, do I need to shock at a higher value then what is called for? Same with the mustard algae shock level? The algae has become very chlorine resistant since I have had it for so long and I would hate to go through the whole Slam process and then have to do it all over again.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Abaker6468 said:
I feel for you s1njin. Know exactly how much you despise this stuff especially if it's as much as I do. My story is as such. Found this site long time ago and decided to take matters in my own hands instead of pool store logic. My problem was that I did not know what I was doing nor understand any of the relationships with chlorine/cya and ph/alkalinity. So long story short, chlorine drifted down to unacceptable levels and hence, mustard bloom. Have had this stuff for at least 5 years, possibly longer. Tried everything under the sun to kill this stuff and after hours of brushing and throwing money at it, I finally decided to read and learn everything I could about it here and finally take control of my pool. I understand everything now and the correlation between everything. My only question now is since I have had this for so long, do I need to shock at a higher value then what is called for? Same with the mustard algae shock level? The algae has become very chlorine resistant since I have had it for so long and I would hate to go through the whole Slam process and then have to do it all over again.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
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Abaker, did you ever resolve your issue with the possible Mustard Algae? I think I may be experiencing the same issue, I can't decide if it is MA or pollen or dead algae, It just keeps coming back every day after brushing and poofs up when brushed or vac'd up. I put some on a paper towel and it just looks like dirt/dust, but it won't filter out.

Thanks,
cruiser310
 
Have not had an opportunity to SLAM yet due to nice swimming weather and time but it is still there. FC levels are now at 15 and it has no effect on the stuff. Been letting the FC drift a little higher so it will be easier to get to the target faster when I do SLAM. Seems to be getting worse with the higher chlorine if u can believe that. CYA is at 70 so I am above target. Never got an answer to my question thought about whether or not to raise my FC above normal Mustard shock level due to this stuff getting so resistant to the chlorine. Had this stuff now for over 5 years now BUT never used pool school to kill it. So once weather breaks and I can officially SLAM pool, I can give out some more info. Does it like the shade and seams? That's where mine seems to linger. And when the sun isn't out it starts to spread all over.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
I would not recommend going above your SLAM FC level at this time. Your CYA of 70 calls for an FC of "28". No need to exceed that limit if your CYA test is correct. When you exceed the SLAM level, it's easy to think that you'll: a) - Kill algae faster; or b) Kill all algae period regardless of how long it's been there. That simply isn't true. More than likely you'll just waste bleach as it gets burned by the sun quicker. We've seen literally thousands of pools from every corner of the country in what only be described as deplorable conditions. We're talking vacated properties that had stagnant water for 1-2 years if not more. The same principle of FC/CYA during the SLAM applied.

The key in all cases it accurate testing and maintaining the correct FC level. At the same time, aggressive manual cleaning of all pool and equipment items, to include toys, clothing, pool covers, etc. During the SLAM, there is no need to wait either. You can swim and enjoy your water as long as the SLAM FC level is not exceeded. In many cases it helps the owner to get better positioned for cleaning some areas that are hard to reach from the decking.

We're not saying you do/don't have MA, but in the end the treatment is invariably the same....pass the SLAM. For those who truly have MA, the MA FC level is only maintained for 24 hours after passing the SLAM criteria.
Pool School - Mustard Algae
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

In regards to the last comment about shaded areas ... yes, that is a favorite for MA. It is important to give those areas additional attention and do everything possible to ensure good water circulation or daily movement in those areas.
 

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thanks for the reply, in my case my pool actually passes the OCLT test, but yet the dirt/dust/algea keeps showing up within 12 hours no matter how much vacuuming, brushing or filtering is done. I've tried vacuuming to waste, using skimmer socks and brushing several times per day but nothing seems to be able to get rid of the constant dirt/dust that keeps accumulating on the seams and bottom of the pool. My FC levels are at or above the recommended levels for my CYA and all readings are right on and it even passes the OCLT and the water is clear, there is just a coating that accumulates on the bottom of the pool that easily poofs up into a cloud and dissipates into the water but will not filter out.

Thanks,
cruiser310
 
cruiser310 said:
thanks for the reply, in my case my pool actually passes the OCLT test, but yet the dirt/dust/algea keeps showing up within 12 hours no matter how much vacuuming, brushing or filtering is done. I've tried vacuuming to waste, using skimmer socks and brushing several times per day but nothing seems to be able to get rid of the constant dirt/dust that keeps accumulating on the seams and bottom of the pool. My FC levels are at or above the recommended levels for my CYA and all readings are right on and it even passes the OCLT and the water is clear, there is just a coating that accumulates on the bottom of the pool that easily poofs up into a cloud and dissipates into the water but will not filter out.

Thanks,
cruiser310
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17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Abaker6468 said:
17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
Click to expand...

Cruiser, I have the same situation you do. Brush brush brush and it all comes back. I, too passed the OCLT 3 times now but from another post I read awhile back whose name I can't rem, said that they had mustard algae and was also passing the OCLT. BUT, once he started SLAMing, and the chlorine got up to shock level, that was when they saw the chlorine getting used up. I have read that MA is resistant to chlorine and it seems to me that the longer you have it, the more resistant it becomes.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Abaker6468

I looked at your thread on mustard algae from earlier this summer. Just to confirm, when you do the overnight chlorine loss test, you are turning off the SWG right?

Also, mustard algae or green algae can not be gotten rid of by just maintaining proper chlorine. That's why we have the SLAM process to guide folks. It doesn't look like you've gone through that which is why you still have algae (green or mustard).

As for your concerns about swimming.....I totally understand as who want a pool in the summer they can't swim in right? It is safe to swim in water that is at shock FC for your CYA. So that shouldn't hold you back too much. The further higher FC for mustard algae is reccomended for 24 hours.

I thought many times that "my" algae was mustard only to realize with a full SLAM and diligently watching my FC that was not the case.
 
Well yesterday I vacuumed all dirt? to waste and raised FC to slam level and it still passed oclt with clear water no cc's and no fc loss this morning. I'm not sure water to do next. I'm not sure if I should go ahead and slam to MA level just to cover my bases or just consider it dirt and dust and continue brushing every day and vacuum to waste every week and just live with the dirty pool in between. Brushing multiple times a day is getting very old and not a very enjoyable pool experience. All numbers are well within range and I have no explanation as to why it keeps getting so dirty. Please keep me updated on your progress especially if you figure something out.

Thanks,
cruiser310
 
Cruiser, can you please add you pool and equipment info to your signature as outlined here: Pool School - Getting Started

I understand your problem is similar but it's much better if you start your own thread with your specific problems and attempts to correct as jumping in here kind of confuses who we are helping with what.

Once thing that comes to mind if you guys can pass an OCLT maybe you have a filter problem, just guessing.

Abaker6468, have you checked to see if you might have a ripped grind ??
 
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