Automatic Pool Leveler Plaster Repair

May 23, 2014
6
Mesa, AZ
My automatic pool leveler's walls (original from 1978) need replastering. It also has a crack around the top that small roots have forced their way into the unit. I put a cork in the pool orifice and have dried out the area, but I would like some advice on the best product to use to resurface the walls and fill the crack. I purchased a 3#container of Leslie's Patch-It, but am not sure this is the right product to use. Any suggestions would be very welcome.
 
Pool Water Leveler Wall Refinish

This is my second post regarding a product to use to refinish the wall of my automatic pool leveler. I received NO answers to my first post.

Does this mean that I have to call a professional to do this project? Has no one ever had to deal with this issue before? Is it possible to refinish the walls or does the whole unit have to be chipped out of the cool deck and a new one installed?

PLEASE! All suggestions will be welcomed.
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! :wave:

Sorry for the delayed response. I thought I responded here yesterday. :oops:

A picture of the pool leveler and the cracks may help you get an answer. If it's made of concrete, a water proof concrete product may work.

As for the separation around the top, I would think a good quality polyurethane caulk - forced into the separation would seal it nicely. Of course, dig out any roots and dirt first.

FFZ huh - one of the nicer GA airports in the valley!
 
Re: Pool Water Leveler Wall Refinish

Welcome to TFP :)

I, and I am sure most everyone has no idea what that is.. could you post a picture of what your are trying to do.. I have never heard of an auto pool leveler..

I promise you will not find a better bunch of people that will help in any way possible if we know what it is :)

hmmmm, is this an auto water fill?

Please let us know :)
 
Re: Pool Water Leveler Wall Refinish

Thank you for replying! Yes, I think it is called a automatic pool water leveler. I have attached 2 photos (I hope). The walls are very granulated...when I used a brush to try to clean it, it comes off like coarse sand cement mix. I worry that this might cause a problem with adhesion of the plastering material.

I am a DIY'er, but always try to have all the info before I start a job. (would rather do it right the first time). Your suggestions are much appreciated.
 

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That's basically just a concrete bowl. Head over to HD or Lowes and ask for their recommendation to fill the cracks and recoat the entire interior. At the top, where the concrete meets the plastic, use a polyurethane caulk. Show them the pictures you posted here so they have an idea of what you're trying to do. Also, tell them it will be filled with water 100% of the time.

Oh - if you're not aware... for the valve/float assembly - don't spend $$$ at the pool store - look at HD/Lowes where the swap cooler parts are. They have several options that will fit just fine.
You can use the $$ you save for some 100LL. :super:
 
Thanks for the advice, proavia. Maybe it's just the HD by my house or maybe pictures would have helped, but 3X there and different advice, but always with final 'better go to a pool store to get the right product'. I also don't think that the guys have a lot of faith in a female's ability to do the work.

Last time @ HD I purchased Sakrete Leak Stopper Hydraulic Cement. It sounds like it might do the trick, but wanted to ask the pro's at TFP for advice.

Will look at the swamp cooler floats at HD. All $$'s help even if my flying is low and slow in a J3 (have to wait for cooler weather...pool time now!)
 
Kind of difficult to feel you're getting reliable info from them when they act that way. SMH... There are lots of other HD or Lowes in the East Valley.

Another option for advice on what to use might be a local pool plastering company. Try Cal Plastering , they are one of the bigger ones here in the valley. Would only cost a phone call - even if you came up empty handed.

The hydraulic cement might just be the answer. IIRC, that's used for patching pool shells before plaster is applied.

Ha - I remember when 100LL was well under $2.00/gallon. Amazed it's over $5.00/gallon now. J3 Cubs are cool - and economical fuel wise. Save those $$, only 3 1/2 months until it cools off!
 
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