Feels like sinking more than swimming!

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H

hoorayforicecream

0
Jul 4, 2016
8
Austin, Texas
Hey everybody, I'm new to the forum. I've been trying to fight a rather persistent algae growth recently using over the counter supplies and such, but it feels like a losing battle. I think the core reason is that my pool isn't getting enough chlorine circulation. I've got a chlorine circulator (a Rainbow Lifegard 300), for which I replaced the elbow check valve earlier, but the tests show me that my chlorine and pH levels are dangerously low. I feel like I've been shoveling in shock powder and chlorine tablets to no avail. The water is clear but I've got what looks like little clumps of yellowish algae still coming back even after pouring in around ten ounces of algaecide 60 and shocking it with ~4 pounds of 73% calcium hypochlorite.

I tested the pH and the chlorine levels with my Bioguard multitest today, along with a couple of the Leslie's strips. According to the tests, my pH is low and my chlorine levels are practically nonexistent.

Help?
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: We would be glad to help you. But from our perspective, you have a couple things going wrong for you right off the bat - you are not testing water accurately and you're using pool store methods/products doomed to failure. We see it all the time. So here's you get-well prescription:
1 - Order a TF-100 (XL Option) and speed stir OR a Taylor K-2006C (link below). The TF-100 will give you more testing options.
2 - Stop using any more pool store products, bags of shock, algaecides, etc.
3 - Remove any chlorine tabs from further use.

I suspect the vast amount of shock, tabs, and store products have raised your CYA to an unmanageable level. In addition, algaecides add metal to your water. Your best option at the moment is to simply order the proper test kit as noted above and add about 1 gallon of bleach to your water each evening. Regular HEB "Bravo" or Wal-Mart "Great Value" bleach - NOT splashless or scented. Just plain. Do that and check back with us and we'll gladly help you get this resolved.

 
I'm also a newbie, and I really really recommend listening to the advice of the experts and mods here. I brought my pool from swamp to crystal clear following the advice here, using a good test kit, and products from grocery/hardware stores. I haven't sent foot into a pool store for advice on my water to date. Having a good test gives accurate test results with numbers that can be used to calculate what you really need. I've found the amount of time daily/weekly for regular testing and adjusting is really minimal, and totally worth it.

Good luck!
 
Walmart has two options - either their regular "Great Value" in the laundry section, or they may have bottles near the pool section called "Pool Essentials". The GV is about 8.25%, and the Essentials is about 10% strength. Either will work. Just buy the one that's better price. :)
 
I've obtained my kit and I took the first readings this morning. In the meantime, I've been pouring a bottle of bleach (almost a gallon) into my pool each evening at around sunset (4 bottles so far in total). Here's what I've got:

pH: 7.0
FC: 15ppm
CC: 1ppm
CYA: Off the charts. Seriously, the test only went up to 100, and my readings are even higher than that.

So... what's next?
 
Use the test bottle for your CYA... fill it to the mark with pool water, then take it inside, and fill to the second mark with tap water, and mix WELL.
Next empty half of the bottle (should bring you back to the 1st mark)... add the re-agent to the second mark, and test again.
If it says that you have a CYA level of 50, it is really 100... if it says 60, you are closer to 120... 70 = 140 etc.
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:

When the FC gets above 10 you shouldn't trust the pH reading or try to adjust it. Once the FC is under 10ppm you should try to get a reading. You're likely close.

You should do a CYA dilution test to find out how bad it is. Please explain how to dilute CYA test if over 100

You're going to need to drain and refill to lower the CYA. Once that's under control, do a SLAM and forget about using the pool store advice and chemicals.
 

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That rainbow lifegard 300 chlorine feeder is the likely cause. Each time you add a tablet of sanatizer you're adding chlorine and CYA. The chlorine is always getting used up but the CYA just keeps building up. The higher it gets the more chlorine you need to do the same job. Good time to stop using it and switch to liquid bleach.

If your CYA is 100-120 you'll need to drain 50-60% of your water and refill to bring it down to around 50. I'm guessing in Texas if the pools out in the sun with no shade that would be a good level.
 
If you read the reference chart showing FC requirements as related to CYA level you will see why your shocking of the pool was not very effective and why alge continues to linger. I had the exact same issue and drained to get CYA in the 40s. Pool now is crystal clear with 5ppm of FC and zero hints of alge. As other have said, pucks will slowly accumulate more CYA getting you to what you have now. Powered shock has the same problem. Most use the rainbow feeder only when out of town for a few days and they cant dose the pool.
 
Going back to your first post (with yellow algae-like clumps), we know you'll need to SLAM. So if you can exchange a little over 1/2 that water to lower your CYA to around 50-60, then you'll be able to manage the SLAM and also be in a good place with CYA to keep-up with this heat we're having. But it all boils-down to that CYA right now. With your DE filter, you can backwash to waste as noted above, and go down quite low if you have a main drain. If you don't have a drain, then you'll either go in small stages or have to see about borrowing a small submersible pump to expedite the water removal. Once you lower the CYA this time, you won't eve have that problem again as long as you stay away from pucks and bags of shock or only use them when you know it's safe to do so. Good luck!
 
If your pool receives full sun most of the day, a CYA of 50 is quite reasonable in our area. Yes it requires a little more bleach for a SLAM, but once the SLAM is done your FC will hold better near your daily target range. Before the SLAM, if you chose to exchange a bit more water to lower the CYA even more (to use less bleach) that is certainly fine. After the SLAM when you are algae-free, you can always raise the CYA as needed.
 
:goodpost: I'm in Wisconsin, full sun, no shade and I'm running 40 and I find that works well for me. CYA is like pH, people have different comfort levels with it. Being in TX I would think you'd want 50 or maybe 60 but it's flexible. The lower your CYA the less bleach you'll use during a SLAM so you can always try to drop it closer to 30 and once you're crystal clear, bump it up. What level you maintain the CYA at will also determine how much bleach you're using daily.
 

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