Think i may need help soon!

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ta2dwonderwoman

ta2dwonderwoman

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Bronze Supporter
Jul 1, 2016
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fall river ks
I took my water in for a reading as i had no chlorine ahowing on my test strip. My pool was open last year and I had no trouble keeping my numbers and balance and up until the last week I've had no trouble this year. When I took my water and they told me to put in 11 and a half pounds of balance Pak 100 and 11 one-pound packages of ahock and 2 pounds of low and slow... I took their word for it and I hope I haven't screwed up my pool totally. I put all of this in last night over about a three-hour period and even though I pre dissolved it all in water first there just seems to be a lot of stuff suspended in the water and I can't even see the bottom anymore. I've never experienced this type of thing so I don't know if this is normal or not but I'm going to watch it for a couple of days and if it becomes necessary I will likely just drain it and start over using y'all's recommendations. Either way I will be switching to your way of doing things as I learn and read more...good news is that we got our deck built finally!
 
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here :)

+1 to Marian's post above. Also, click the link in my signature "Read This Before You Post" because it has some instructions on adding your pool info to your own signature. This will help you get the best advice here.

Balance Pak 100 is baking soda (aka bicarb, aka sodium bicarbonate, aka sodium hydrogen carbonate)
Low and slow is dry acid (aka sodium bisulfate, aka sodium hydrogen sulfate, aka bisulfate of soda)
Shock (when used as a noun) means a powder or a liquid. We'd need to hear more names from the package, but it sounds like you have a powder, so it's probably calcium hypochlorite

Main point of all this gobbledegook is to say: No sweat! It's unlikely you hurt the pool, and we can save you back the cost of that test kit by using cheaper stuff.
 
Well, i had a signature set up and didn't catch that it wasn't part of my post...it is marked to show ot but did not for some reason

22ft round, 10000 gal ag intex pool, with 2500gph intex pump, fall river ks, city water notvwell, currently trsting with strips and pool store testing. Going to order the kit though...pool store said the watercshould clear up in a day or two...not so sure I believe, but we will see.
 
"Balance Pak 100 is baking soda (aka bicarb, aka sodium bicarbonate, aka sodium hydrogen carbonate)
Low and slow is dry acid (aka sodium bisulfate, aka sodium hydrogen sulfate, aka bisulfate of soda)"

I always like the pool store stories, but if I'm not mistaken this one takes the cake. Don't those simply counteract each other?

ta2wonderwoman, welcome to TFP! All the knowledge here got me up to speed fast, and once you have your test kit they will do the same for you. Lots of future swimming in a crystal clear pool (without paying for two things that simply cancel each other).
 
I'm new to this group as well, but have been running free and clear of the pool store for about a month now and have found that what you find here will work! I got my test kit just this past week and found it easy to use. My water is looking good and was in pretty good shape just following some of the basic advice I've gotten here. The pool store is not getting any more of my money if I can help it. Welcome to the "deep end" of pool ownership....and the folks around here are your Lifeguards!
 
It's just guessing with that poolmaster kit. Better to remove all doubt and wait 'til you new kit gets in.

You can help matters by adding 1/2 gallon of Clorox each evening until your kit gets in.
 

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My chlorine is off the charts at the m9ment due to 11 bags of shock 2 nights ago...should i add clorix anyway? I assume you mean plain clorox in the gall9n size? I do have a floating chlorinator with 3 inch tablets in it right now also... should I remove that?
 
What is the minimum amount of each type of product that I should have on hand if it could be as much as 5 days before I'm near a Walmart again? I live kind of out in the sticks a bit and I'm not always in town daily and for me to make a trip to my nearest Walmart is almost an hour each Direction so I need to make sure I have everything on hand at the first try
 
That's a tough one! to be sure... hmmm. Can you buy bleach or chlorinating liquid closer to home by any chance? That's a very big wild card at this stage. could be 10 gallons, could be 30.

Post up your numbers from your test kit, just mark it "PoolMaster Test Kit" so we know how you got the numbers.

Is water costly? If you do a drain/refill, we could predict it pretty close. If you've been using pucks, there's a good chance a partial drain will be needed anyway. This is because of CYA in the powdered and solid chlorine products. We can't know that without the CYA test in the TF100, which you won't have for a while. With a drain/refill, you'd be up and running as soon as that could be done. If that's an option for you, I can work out the chems you'll need provided I also get your PoolMaster test on your fill water pH and TA.
 
I know... it has been 48 hours since I did the treatment they recommended and my water is still so milky you can't see down into it at all because of the suspended product. I was planning to spend part of my day tomorrow vacuuming and cleaning the filter and then vacuuming some more and cleaning the filter and so long to try to get some of the product out of the water but it almost sounds like I might be better off to just drain it and refill it and call it a lesson learned. Have family coming in on Friday for a two-week stay and the pool is a big part of that so I can't really run the risk of not having it ready to go by then
 
I can't say I am a expert but I was new last year and was in just about the same boat(dumped in 12 packs of Clorox extra blue powered shock in told by a friend to do so) it did clear up for me so I would give it a little time and hope fully that will be what happens for you in the next few days .Finding TFP will help it not happen again that we know for sure .;)
 
Are the walls or bottom green or slimy? I'll work out the numbers. It will take me 10 minutes to at least figure the bleach for you. I'll base it on a month's supply. Also the CYA. Adjusting pH and TA should be less, but I'll need to know your fill water. That might be avialable online when it's city water.
 
No slime or green at all. We get our water from a water tower here in town, so not well water. I would like to give it at least until Wednesday and try to get the water cleared up and my numbers somewhat in line and if that doesn't work out I will begin the process of a drain and refill and start over for this year.
 

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