Algae not going away with super high FC

[HateMyPool]

I had my pool crystal clear. Then after 1 rain storm the algae started to come. I shocked the pool and it got worse. I am now on my 10th day of keeping the FC above 10 and the water is no better.

I have tried the phosphate treatment and that has done nothing either.

I go through this every year and never can tell what the magic bullet is. What should I do now?

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum.

There is no magic bullet....ever. We would all use it if there was one.

Phosphates are not relevant to pool management.

We can only guess at the issues with your pool without a complete set of precise test results.

Start your transformation by reading "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Give up on the magic bullet and arm yourself with the knowledge we teach at TFP.....you'll never look back.

 

[DebbieO]

The closet you will come to that "magic bullet" is your own test kit. I never looked back and never went back to the pool store for water testing. I did stop in the pool store 2 years ago for a new skimmer net. They did remember me and suggested I bring in a water sample. I told them I test my own now. Since I banished the PS my water has been clear and easy to maintain. This is the best community of pool peeps ever! Instead of spending $$$$ at the pool store for stuff that won't work invest those $$ in a good kit. Post the numbers and these guys and gals will help you out.

 

[HateMyPool]

I have my own test kit. I test my own water. However, none of the results are valid because I have so much chlorine in the water to try to kill the algae.

Before I had this last algae bloom my results were as follows:
FC: 4.0
pH: 7.2
TA: 110
CH: 90
CYA: 40
Water temperature hovers around 76F

The only reason I go to the pool store is to buy chemicals, although more recently I have bought the Chlorox shock and 3" tabs at Costco. Much cheaper and no sales pressure from the pool store guys. The only reason I decided to do the phosphates killer was from posts from other web sites.

Question - once the green algae is dead, what color should the water be? I obviously would prefer clear, but while the filter is trying to clear out the debris, would it be grey, green, what? Just trying to figure out if this is all working. Using the overnight FC test does not work for me because my chlorine levels are above 10 and have been for some time.

 

[AimeeH]

I have my own test kit. I test my own water. However, none of the results are valid because I have so much chlorine in the water to try to kill the algae.

Before I had this last algae bloom my results were as follows:
FC: 4.0
pH: 7.2
TA: 110
CH: 90
CYA: 40
Water temperature hovers around 76F

The only reason I go to the pool store is to buy chemicals, although more recently I have bought the Chlorox shock and 3" tabs at Costco. Much cheaper and no sales pressure from the pool store guys. The only reason I decided to do the phosphates killer was from posts from other web sites.

Question - once the green algae is dead, what color should the water be? I obviously would prefer clear, but while the filter is trying to clear out the debris, would it be grey, green, what? Just trying to figure out if this is all working. Using the overnight FC test does not work for me because my chlorine levels are above 10 and have been for some time.

Hi there. Why do you think all tests would be off at FC levels above 10?

The only test that gets skewed on the higher side at FC above 10 is PH.

It sounds like you are using granular and dry chlorine products that contain CYA which means you're constantly going to be bringing that up which will require even more chlorine to clear your water. With CYA at 40 your shock level should be 16 and not drop below that until water is clear.

The OCLT can certainly be done with high FC.

 

[northrn]

Overnight chlorine loss will work with a FC of 10.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt

 

[HateMyPool]

Just measured levels. TA is 90,CH is 200, CA is 50

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[AimeeH]

CA? Did you men CYA?

Where is for FC now?

 

[HateMyPool]

Yes. Meant CYA

My FC scale goes up to 5. I diluted the pool sample water with tap water and did 50/50. Measurement shows above 10

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[AimeeH]

Yes. Meant CYA

My FC scale goes up to 5. I diluted the pool sample water with tap water and did 50/50. Measurement shows above 10

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

To test chlorine accurately in order to follow SLAM process for clearing up algae you really need the fas-dpd chlorine test which will allow you test at much higher levels.

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

 

[northrn]

how much chlorine is in your tap water?

 

[HateMyPool]

Not sure how much chlorine is in the tap water.

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[OHcabanaboy]

You really should have a good test kit as mentioned above. I use the TF-50 kit and it has served me well. You don't mention your CC level. It should be .5 or less according to the resources on this site. If you do the OCLT and it checks out as well as a lower CC reading I would think you'd be good.

 

[Ncdamsel]

HateMYPool " :joker: Clorox shock and 3" inch tabs ?.That is not a good thing. please use only bleach on a regular basics or more problems will happen. I have heard the Clorox pool products have copper in them.

 

[HateMyPool]

So don't use chlorine tabs at all? Or just don't use the Clorox?

Why is copper bad?

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[kimkats]

The tabs have their place-weekend get aways, vacations, etc. What we teach here at TFP is what does what to your water. Too much of anything is bad. Use the charts and Pool Math to know how much of each thing you should have.

For right now only us liquid chlorine.

Copper is bad in that it will build up over time and stain your pool AND your hair! Copper is what makes blonde hair turn green!!

It is VERY hard to remove so..........best to not use it at all!

Kim:cat:

 

[kcindc]

You will need a FAS-DPD chlorine test. It can measure the high chlorine levels you will need to keep at SLAM level.

Diluting with tap water isn't accurate and to add to the inaccuracy municipal tap water contains FC.

You didn't mention which test kit you are using. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 or the TF-100. The TF-100 is the better value. Pool School - Test Kits Compared Since you need to SLAM it is recommended that you get the Xl option: TFTestkits.net

 

[domct203]

I had my pool crystal clear. Then after 1 rain storm the algae started to come. I shocked the pool and it got worse. I am now on my 10th day of keeping the FC above 10 and the water is no better.

I have tried the phosphate treatment and that has done nothing either.

I go through this every year and never can tell what the magic bullet is. What should I do now?

Rain did not make the algae grow, inadequate FC levels did.

You posted a CYA of 40ppm, that would require maintaining a FC shock level of 16ppm. Holding FC at 10ppm is just wasting chlorine.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Which test kit do you have?

Without a FAS/DPD FC test you will not have the accuracy to complete a SLAM. It will be impossible to measure an OCLT with a OTO or DPD test, as well as not reading a high enough FC level for the SLAM or an accurate CC level.

Dom

 

[PAGirl]

If you are using tabs and "shock", your CYA is probably higher. What type of test kit for CYA do you have?