I just re-read my Taylor K-2006 instruction booklet. So full of good information and a good confirmation of most of the advice I see here. You see things in print like "CYA above 100 ppm can make chlorine ineffective and is not allowed by some laws for community pools", which is really the basis for the TFP method. Lots of other good stuff too. Interesting reading for nerds and even geeks.
I got curious, after reading about how great a salt water pool is, what it would take to convert. My first curiosity was how much salt do I actually have in the pool? My Taylor K-2006C kit has instructions for doing a salt test so I started by filling a 10ml container. Then I stopped when I realized the kit doesn't actually have any of the reagents for testing, just the instructions. Duh. So I'll need to buy test strips or reagents to find that out. I may not be that curious.
I think I'll take a look at the automation section and see if there are any homebrew SWG's. Tinkering is fun.
We got some rain last night and overflowed the AGP about 2.5". I haven't tested CYA or CH in a while so I did a full test today. CYA had dropped down just under 30ppm. With the vial completely full, the dot is pretty much gone. So I was trying to figure out if I should raise it a little. In reading the Taylor manual and a few recent posts, it looks like I'm fine. Plus I can use some of my old trichlor pucks next time I leave.
When trying to figure out where my salt testing reagents were, I visited tftestkits.net. They list the tf-100 with several options. After reading through them all I realized I would have been a lot further along and spent less money if I had taken the advice given here initially on:
1. Buying the right kit
2. Buying the recommended options
3. Reading before acting
I've been through this before in other areas. I thought I had learned my lesson and would follow others' advice instead of plowing my own road. Must be a personality thing for me.