No swg amps

Have you tried a reset? In the menu with the salt/volts/amp display, press the + button. If it comes back as 0 amps, there is a disconnection somewhere and probably at the cell. Do you still have the old cell and was it somewhat working at the end? You could swap them and see if you get any current at all.
 
So if the old cell showed the same thing, I would guess it is a board issue and probably one of the relays.

Do both polarities (+- voltage) show the same thing?
 
Salt level is determined from the voltage, amps and temperature so if there are 0 amps, there will be 0 salt level.

Sometimes you can fix those boards if you have the skills. There others on ebay that will do it for a price.
 
Try this: Go to Settings and turn off superchlorinate and turn the percentage to 0. Wait 30 seconds. Turn percentage to 100%. Then go to diagnostics to see the numbers. Watch for 30 seconds. Press the right arrow. Press +. Report results.

Also, 2,700 ppm is too low. You should be above 2,700.

What is the water temperature?

How are you testing salinity?
 
Same results, 31.8 volts, 0 amps, 0000 ppm salt. Using sea scape test strips and local pool store for salinity. They are within 100 ppm of each other. Water temp is 81. Tried with old cell and new cell. Results are the same

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What does the average salt show?

The voltage is measured after the relay, so we know that the system is calling for production and closing the relay. Since the cell is new, we can assume that the cell, cord and plug are probably good.

Therefore, I think that there has to be a defect in the wiring from after the relay to the plug receiver.

You can check for voltage at the plug receiver. The top two connection points should measure the same voltage as displayed in diagnostics.

Putting your voltmeter leads on the top two points should show about 30 volts DC.
 
What does the average salt show?

The voltage is measured after the relay, so we know that the system is calling for production and closing the relay. Since the cell is new, we can assume that the cell, cord and plug are probably good.

Therefore, I think that there has to be a defect in the wiring from after the relay to the plug receiver.

You can check for voltage at the plug receiver. The top two connection points should measure the same voltage as displayed in diagnostics.

Putting your voltmeter leads on the top two points should show about 30 volts DC.


Having same issue. Tried a friends known working cell, same situation 0 amps. Also my cell seems to work on his setup. What is the path between relay and plug to check for possible opens before buying a new control board?

Just checked the top two pins as suggested and getting 2.2V vs readout of 30+ on the controller
 
Check the solder joint on the back of the motherboard for burn marks. It is right under the K1 Relay. Sometimes, you only need to re-solder it or bridge a broken trace.
 
Measuring voltage at the plug receiver probably won't work because when the cell is unplugged, it usually registers an error and won't try to turn on.

If the voltage is 30, the relay is probably good.

Can you post a picture of the screen that shows the readings?
 
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