pool up 2 weeks, need help please, just tested

[rastoma]

I have a test kit called 'Blue Devil'. I used it and got the following results:

CC = 1
regarding the CC and FC, the test said that as soon as the reagent is added, the color shown is the FC and then to wait 2+ mins and it will show you what the CC is. To me, the color seemed to stay the same from immediately on to about 5 mins, which was at 1.0

PH was below what the color chart measured. I did the base demand test. It took 4 drops to get the PH level to ideal. The chart in the book says for 4 drops for 13500k gallons is about 1.5lb of soda ash.

TA (total alkalinity) looks to be 160ppm

CYA = 40, but could slowly rise a bit more as it's only been a couple of days since I've been adding CYA only a little at a time to the skimmer.

I don't need to test for calcium for an AGP right?

The water looks great, sparkling clear but I know that could change so what do I first need to work on?

 

[ideliver]

First you need some chlorine in your pool. What is your source? You can use the poolcalculator.com for the dose. Many of use bleach.

Next, you MAY need to raise your pH. Soda ash is fine, and you can also use borax.

Your TA may be a little high, but that can be worked on later.

Your CYA is good at 40...if there is some still undissolved, you may want to remove it. If you are using triclor as you chlorine, now is a good time to stop and switch to bleach. The pucks will add CYA which can become problematic at higher levels.

Get a good test kit and post some numbers!

 

[rastoma]

I've only been using bleach. No other chemicals have been added other than stabilizer.

What should the chlorine level be once the PH is in range?

 

[duraleigh]

Use 20 mule team borax to raise your pH. Soda ash will raise your TA quite a bit more and you don't need that.

Then, get some chlorine in your pool....at least 3-5ppm. You must constantly replenish chlorine and 3-5 is the lowest it should ever get.

As long as your water stays crystal clear, you are all set.

 

[PaulR]

CC = 1
regarding the CC and FC, the test said that as soon as the reagent is added, the color shown is the FC and then to wait 2+ mins and it will show you what the CC is. To me, the color seemed to stay the same from immediately on to about 5 mins, which was at 1.0

I think that means FC is 1, and CC is zero. But I'm not familiar with that kit, I could be wrong.

I don't need to test for calcium for an AGP right?

You should, because you can still be at risk for scaling if your levels are too high. Too low is not a concern for vinyl.
--paulr

 

[rastoma]

New test after adding borax:

calcium = less than 60ppm
TA = 60
PH = 7.6
CL = .6
CYA = approx 38

The kit I have says it measures FC and CC but the color doesn't change as the book describes. (yes I will be getting a better kit as soon as I can).

I added 1/2 gallon .6% bleach and will test CL again this evening.

 

[JasonLion]

That sounds like an OTO test kit, drops added to the sample turn the sample yellow, which is compared to a color chart. The OTO test won't change color at all if the CC level is zero. Also, the color transition can sometimes start quickly enough that it is very difficult to get an initial reading before the color has already started changing. Most people can only tell that the color is changing, suggesting they have CC, without being able to get a definite level except at the end when it settles down.

 

[rastoma]

Yes it is what you have described.

Until I get my TFtestkit, what numbers should I keep using this kind of test for now?

 

[JasonLion]

With CYA around 40, you want to keep the FC level at 3 or higher. With that test kit it is difficult to distinguish levels above 3, but it ought to be possible to tell when the level is below 3.