Aquapure 1400 - Jandy

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
604
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have a 5 year old salt system at my weekend house. I may have changed the cell two years ago but I am not sure. Although it's reading suggest it is working well (no error messages, salt level 3000-3200) my chlorine strips don't show any production. I believe my pool men are adding liquid chlorine each week, so the water is very chemically when I arrive each Friday. The system is set at 90% and the pump runs at 1900 RMM 23 hours/day (when I am using pool, it runs at 3300 RPM and heater and waterfall are on).

I am thinking it is time to change cell and see if that improves production. Anyone with experience with a "Platinum Edition" replacement cell? Much cheaper option, if it works. Link is Jandy AquaPure 3-Port 1400 Salt Cell Replacement Salt Pool Store.

Also, any other ways I can test my existing unit to see if I am missing something?
 
Without error codes the SWG is 99.9% working just fine, you most likely have nascent algae consuming the chlorine as the SWG makes it.

You need to get yourself one of the recommended test kits to solve this problem and do an OCLT. The OCLT will confirm the algae and then you can do the SLAM procedure to fix your pool.

See my signature for test kits.
 
Without error codes the SWG is 99.9% working just fine, you most likely have nascent algae consuming the chlorine as the SWG makes it.

You need to get yourself one of the recommended test kits to solve this problem and do an OCLT. The OCLT will confirm the algae and then you can do the SLAM procedure to fix your pool.

See my signature for test kits.

Makes sense I think, but why do I get a zero free chlorine reading when I put test trip at return? Shouldn't chlorine reading be high there?
 
I don't trust test strips at all. Without a proper test kit I can't help you out over the net. Even an OTO or DPD chlorine test would be much better than strips as those will show the FC if there is any.
 
Are you testing water directly from outets vs. the general water chlorin levels in the pool? If you have slightly higher chlorine level (2~3ppm) more on the outlet water (where circ pump dumps into pool) than its working fine. I have used this method to verify operation for years without any issues.

and as the above posted mentioned, dump the strips and get a decent test kit sensitive enough to read a change of a ppm or two like the one sold on the site or taylor 2006.
 
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