Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23

Thread: New intex saltwater pool

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    New intex saltwater pool

    I couldn't add a signature because I'm on mobile but I have a brand new intex ultra frame 14x42 with an intex 1600gph saltwater generator and sand filter combo with ECO. We've filled the pool up, 3500 gallons, we back washed the pump and got it running. Swg hasn't been cut on yet as it says to wait 24 hours. We have added 80lbs of salt and our salt levels are reading right at 3000. That's all we've done. We're kind of at a stand still. I'm trying to test the water to find my next course of action....I have Clorox 6 way text strips and 4 way strips that came with the pool. On both strips the ph is reading off the charts which blows my mind since at this point it's fresh faucet water with salt added.

    My results if I'm reading the test right:
    Total hardness: 110/low
    Total chlorine: 0/low
    Free chlorine: 0/low
    Ph: 8.0/very high
    Total alkalinity: 240/high
    Stabilizer: 50/low

    Do I have to wait the 24 hours to turn on the saltwater pump? Either way, what should my next step be? I hope you guys can help because I'm so lost.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    122

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Test strips are notoriously inaccurate, so don't trust the readings. Start here to learn what to do: http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...emporary-pools

    You need to get some chlorine in there soon. Use plain old unscented bleach from your local grocery store. Use Pool Math to figure out how much to add. If you did not add stabilizer, then it is zero (tap water does not contain it). Again, Pool Math will tell you how much to add.
    29,000 gallon vinyl liner custom designed lagoon style in-ground pool (self-built 2015-2016), Hayward EcoStar VS pump, Hayward HP21404T Heat Pump (140K BTU), Hayward Pro Grid DE DE6020 Filter with Fiber Clear, Hayward Tiger Shark, 2 Hayward Color-Logic LED lights, Stenner 45MPHP10
    370 gallon Jacuzzi J-345 spa with ClearRay UV

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Thank you, I have read that and a whole lot more on here and I have tried and tried and tried that pool calculator and it just doesn't do anything for me. It won't calculate or I'm not doing something right.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    I did buy the unscented bleach because I already knew from reading here that it would be recommended...can anyone tell me how much to add for 3500 gal? I also need to get some cyanuric acid in there, right?

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    122

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicolenewpoolowner View Post
    I did buy the unscented bleach because I already knew from reading here that it would be recommended...can anyone tell me how much to add for 3500 gal? I also need to get some cyanuric acid in there, right?
    Add 5.2oz of 8.25% bleach for every 1ppm that you want to increase FC. Add 14oz by weight of CYA to go from 0 to 30 CYA.
    29,000 gallon vinyl liner custom designed lagoon style in-ground pool (self-built 2015-2016), Hayward EcoStar VS pump, Hayward HP21404T Heat Pump (140K BTU), Hayward Pro Grid DE DE6020 Filter with Fiber Clear, Hayward Tiger Shark, 2 Hayward Color-Logic LED lights, Stenner 45MPHP10
    370 gallon Jacuzzi J-345 spa with ClearRay UV

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Ok just added 1/3 cup of bleach. I'm gonna wait a bit and test and then work on cya. So this won't affect the saltwater gen chlorine production in anyway? I'll still cut it on after 24 hours and set it to the recommended time the intex book says? Thank you for your help!

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    2/3 I mean.

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    122

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Remember, that's 5.2 oz for every 1ppm. So if you want to target 2ppm, that's 10.4oz and 3ppm is 15.6oz, etc. You are going to burn off FC quickly in the sun without CYA, so you will want more to keep an eye on your FC. I'm much farther north than you and I can loose 3ppm daily due to the sun (with CYA at 30). I'm guessing with 0 CYA, 1ppm of FC will burn off in a few hours in your neck of the woods.
    29,000 gallon vinyl liner custom designed lagoon style in-ground pool (self-built 2015-2016), Hayward EcoStar VS pump, Hayward HP21404T Heat Pump (140K BTU), Hayward Pro Grid DE DE6020 Filter with Fiber Clear, Hayward Tiger Shark, 2 Hayward Color-Logic LED lights, Stenner 45MPHP10
    370 gallon Jacuzzi J-345 spa with ClearRay UV

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Ok I added 2/3 more and also about half a pound of cya....I guess I'm scared to over add so I'm going slow.

    Can anyone advise on this saltwater/sand combo? In the morning after my 24 hours is up it says to set my hours for the swg which should be 4...then I see it says first time installation should run boost mode....so that's going to have my system running non stop for another 24 hours (8 times my setting of 4 hours)...so it will have run a total of 48 hours (24 pump only and 24 both). But then there's places in the manual that say don't run this thing more than 12 consecutive hours so I'm confused?

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Can anyone advise on this? I've had it on boost for 8 hours now and it Seems my chlorine levels are going up...aren't they going to get way too high if I finish out the 24 hours? I'm confused on this. Also ph levels are still reading over 8 which I totally don't get why our city water would have such high oh levels....should I use some ph down?

    Totally alkalinity is still high as well around 180....was like 240. What do I do here?

    Total hardness is still very low...does this matter?

    Chlorine levels looking pretty good but afraid they're gonna get too high and stabilizer is still a bit low but from what I've read it could take a couple of days for the cya I added to really register. Right?

    Oh and storms are moving in! Pool is already getting filthy ugh!

    Thanks in advance!

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    23,994

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Here is how to use Poolmath, Pool School - PoolMath

    How many PPM of CYA did you add?

    What does a filthy pool mean? Dirt, algae, green water, slimy, cloudy

    They want you to run on boost to get the FC level up, adding bleach does that better and faster.

    Please add your pool info to your signature as shown here, Pool School - Read This Before You Post. I am also on mobile and have no trouble opening TFP up in a browser on a phone or a tab when needed or use a computer or laptop.

    PH should always be maintained between 7.2 and 7.8
    FC should always be maintained above minimum for your CYA, FC/CYA Chart
    Don't worry about CH
    TA will drop on its own as you add acid to lower PH

    More on pool chems here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

    Have you read any Pool School? Here are some places to start
    ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
    Pool School - Getting Started
    TFPC for Beginners
    TFP Moderator
    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

  12. Back To Top    #12
    AnnikaF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Southampton, UK
    Posts
    36

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    you need to get the TA down to about 70, or your SWG elements will clog up with scale. vinegar will remove the scaling, but still a hassle. use muriatic acid to lower the ph and bring the TA down, then aerate to get the ph back up while TA stays level, you will need to do this in stages. its all in the pool school

    use bleach to get the FC up, and the SWG to keep level.
    Chris - Annika's papa

    9x18 Intex ultra AGP 4500 gallon, 3200gph intex 1hp pump with 16" sandfilter, abs hardpiped, hayward skimmer, Intex SWG, 11kw heater, LaMotte ColorQ Pro 7 test kit.

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    It tells me this content is not supported in mobile etc... When I try to add the signature. I had read all the kinks and tons more on here. I think I see what I did wrong with the pool calculator now though so I will try that again. I had to turn boost off because xhlorine levels were getting too high...prob because I had already added the bleach so boost wasn't need. Seem to be ok there now. So now I'm working on the ph to get it right and the TA. I just noticed something though...I purchased the ph down stuff...it's not muriatoc acid though is it? I'm confused here. Am I using the wrong stuff? Oh is still high as is TA. I may also need to bring my cya levels up a bit but I read they could take a few days to register from what I had added so I was waiting for that. Glad to know CH doesn't matter. Lol.

    I meant filthy as in leaves and such being blown in. I got it taken care of.

    I have read a lot on percentages being set on swg's...it doesn't seem mine has that option, am I right? Mine just goes by hours. It must be different models that have the percentage option.

    I'll work on the ph tomorrow, should I not be letting my kids swim right now? I even tested out water out of the faucet and the ph is high on it...is that normal?!

    Other than balancing my next step will be to figure out things like cleaning the salt cell...no idea where that is. I also see a lot of unplug the copper ion producer but again, no idea if mine even has that nor do I know why people say to unplug it. I'm going to read more! I got the vacuum to work today though! Haha. Now if I could get the ph down and this sucker heated up we'd be in business!

    - - - Updated - - -

    And I am definitely buying a better test kits because I have 3 different ones and question all of them. Which makes balancing pointless because I don't know if the dang stuff is even right. Hoping our local store that sells pool stuff might have one of the ones mentioned.

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    65

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Ok, I can totally help here! My father in law has the same pool, same filter/pump with SWG.

    Test Kits - Don't buy anything but the TF-100 Kit or the Taylor K-2006-Salt kits. You won't find these in the pool stores unfortunately, buy them from this site or Amazon. I personally own the Taylor, but both will get you the results you need to keep that pool hassle free. The tests are NOT hard to run, and they are very accurate. You already mentioned you had 3 types of kits and don't trust them. Trust these 2 kits.

    Leaves / pool clutter: Keep up the fight, leaves and such cause problems after they sit a while and decay in the pool, but don't panic, you don't need to run home from work at lunch and scoop 'em, just keep an eye on it.

    Your Intex Pool equipment. Here's how to make it work like a champ.

    1. Using your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006-Salt kit, determine your level of salt in your pool in PPM. The Intex equipment likes about 2500ppm - 3500ppm, 3000ppm is dead on. My F-I-L (Father in laws) is at 3400ppm, and that's fine, because he's going to lose a little during backwashes with the sand filters.

    2. Your pump is a simple pump, and the instructions are somewhat clear, but not the greatest. You pump will have a display, and it will show a number like "93", "06", or even letters like "FP" sometimes. It's likely showing a number, from 01 to 12, meaning it's currently running, and that's how many hours are left until the cycle is done. I set my FILs pool for 6 hours, but it will depend on a few factors for you...all of which you can figure out using your test kits.

    3. The "Boost" mode does 2 things. It runs 4x longer than normal, and it only runs 1 cycle then goes back to normal. Lets say you run your pump normally for 4 hours a day. Boost mode will run 16 hours for that day, then, at the same time it started the previous day, go back to the normal schedule of 4 hours. To be clear...if it always starts are 8 A.M., it will run normally until noon. In boost, it will run until 10 PM (16 hours), then run again for just 4 hours at 8 AM the next morning, since it's back on schedule. The boost must be manually pressed each time. It does add a bit of additional strain on the equipment, so an easy fix is to keep bleach handy and "boost"/"shock" with it instead. That way you pump just does it's thing and YOU adjust for irregularities, such as lots of swimmers, heavy rains, junk in pool.

    4. There's a pressure gauge on the sand filter, when it gets yellow or red, you need to backwash until the sight-glass is clear again. Should only take a minute or two. This will dump water, so after a few of these you could lose some chemicals that normally don't evaporate, such as CYA, Salt, and Borates. Test kit will tell you if you're still in a good range.

    5. Brush your pool to stir it up. Doesn't take long, it's good exercise, and it helps keep stuff from settling at the bottom, because your intake is kind of high on the wall.

    6. Adding bleach to your Saltwater pool will never, ever, hurt your pool. In fact, Bleach is made using a SWG at a factory. It's the same stuff, it's only that you're buying a refined product in the bottle vs making it in real time in your pool.

    7. When you add stuff to your pool, don't just dump it straight in, dump it in front of the return jet (the one pushing water back into the pool). This helps mix it so it doesn't just sit at the bottom and possibly hurt your liner. Then, brush! (Essentially...STIR!).

    Ask more questions, I probably didn't share everything I learned about that pool just yet.
    Lee Mims - Orange, TX, 25400 gallon In-Ground Plaster Pool
    Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward Chlorine Feeder, Century 1081 2-Speed Pool & Spa Pump, Hayward H350FDN (350k BTU) Natural Gas Water Heater, Paramount O3 Ozone, Hayward Super II Pump for Waterfall, Aqualink RS System w/ Remote (Jandy), Taylor K-2006 Kit

  15. Back To Top    #15

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    65

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    A few more...

    How long should you run your pump? It goes from 1 hour to a max of 12 hours. The answer is dependent on the test kits, but here's how to figure it out.

    Determine your level of Free Chlorine (FC) in the pool using the FAS-DPD tests. First, determine using the Poolmath (based on your CYA levels, size of pool, type of liner, etc.) your target FC range. Let's say it's 4ppm for example. Test it again the same time the next day, and see if you're still around the same 4ppm. Do this for a few days, through cloudy days, sunny days, rainy days, etc. If you are able to hold your 4ppm pretty successfully, you've got it dialed in. If it's a little too low, and running on the bottom of your range, then you need to add an hour or two to the pump (change the 04 to 06 to add 2 hours). If you're making too much, such as if the FC is going up and up and up each day, reduce an hour and test again. This will take a few tries to get it tuned, but once it is, it should be pretty easy to keep going, and you can just check the FC levels every fews days (only takes a minute) to make sure you're keeping a safe range for you, and the prevention of algae.

    Another question, what's the minimum to run your pump? You probably have the 1600GPH (Gallons per hour) pump. Determine size of pool, divide by GPH. For example, a 10,000 gallon pool would take 6.25 hours to complete a full turn over of water with a 1600GPH pump. To be safe, I'd run it 7 hours minimum.

    When your pump runs, it's making chlorine. There's not a way to separate the two actions. So running your pump 7 hours means 7 hours of filtering, and 7 hours of making Chlorine.

    If, for any reasons you want to run a filter only, but not make Chlorine, there is an extra feature called "FP" mode for filter pump. You can do that by pressing the two bottom buttons on the display (the bottom two of the triangle of buttons below the display) for a few seconds until it switches and says "FP" on the screen. Be warned, this mode will run 24x7, and will never shut off until you manually turn it off. Setting the pump in this mode would make it run for 2 weeks straight until it explodes in a fiery blaze if you don't stop it eventually. It's great to filter a cloudy pool. Turning off the pump, and back on, will reset it to the "normal" mode.
    Lee Mims - Orange, TX, 25400 gallon In-Ground Plaster Pool
    Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward Chlorine Feeder, Century 1081 2-Speed Pool & Spa Pump, Hayward H350FDN (350k BTU) Natural Gas Water Heater, Paramount O3 Ozone, Hayward Super II Pump for Waterfall, Aqualink RS System w/ Remote (Jandy), Taylor K-2006 Kit

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    65

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    I'll work on the ph tomorrow, should I not be letting my kids swim right now? I even tested out water out of the faucet and the ph is high on it...is that normal?!
    You mentioned pH down. I assume that's dry acid. Check the chemicals in that, we recommend Muriatic Acid because it doesn't have anything piggybacking on there to add unknown chemicals to the pool. Be careful with MA, it requires safety equipment and common sense. Don't inhale the fumes, use Nitrile gloves, and eye protection, and stand upwind or use a respirator mask like from Home Depot with the cartridges. You don't want to breath it, get it on your, and especially get it in your eyes. It was scary at first to me, but once I understand it, it's not too bad.

    Other than balancing my next step will be to figure out things like cleaning the salt cell...no idea where that is.
    The salt cell is the thing that's hooked into the PVC pipe with the black wire coming out of it going to the display of the pump. It looks like it would be unscrewed. Make sure to shut off the pump, and block the intake (so the pool doesn't drain, since it's below the water level), before you mess with it. It should be fine for now since it's new.

    stabilizer is still a bit low but from what I've read it could take a couple of days for the cya I added to really register.
    Perhaps, but it's still in there helping. You likely want to get your CYA level to about 60 - 70 for your setup, but use Poolmath to confirm that. The test strips are VERY VERY bad for being accurate on this one, so carefully note how much stabilizer you've put in so far, as the only way to remove this is to replace water...
    Lee Mims - Orange, TX, 25400 gallon In-Ground Plaster Pool
    Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward Chlorine Feeder, Century 1081 2-Speed Pool & Spa Pump, Hayward H350FDN (350k BTU) Natural Gas Water Heater, Paramount O3 Ozone, Hayward Super II Pump for Waterfall, Aqualink RS System w/ Remote (Jandy), Taylor K-2006 Kit

  17. Back To Top    #17

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Man thank you guys so much for all of this info! Here's what I've done, ditched the ph down, went the the pool store and got muriatic acid...I know y'all say stay away from the pool store but this is a local place that just happens to also do pool stuff and they had a crazy testing set up, looked like a Taylor system...my ph and TA were still way high. Results were...
    fc: 1.5
    Tc: 1.5
    Cc: 0
    Ph: 8
    Hardness: 50
    Alkalinity: 260
    Cya: 10
    Copper: 0
    Iron: 0
    Phosphate: 500
    Salt: 2984

    Their instructions were add 1 gallon of muriatic acid (I added about half at once then another 2/3 or so and now I have a bit left...it said to do in 3 increments but my ph is now way low so I'm scared to finish it out...I need an aerator). (edit! testing this morning is showing TA at 180...still to high huh? and PH at 6.8...too low. Need to figure a better way to aerate and get ph back up I guess because what we tried with the jets and kids kicking/splashing didn't seem to make any difference.)

    Then it said add 1lb 12oz of cya which seems like a lot to me but I haven't add more of this since I added the original 2/3 cups...(edit! I added another 1 1/3 cup of cya...so a total of 2 cups which from my calculations should be right at a pound. I'll give it a few days and test again.)

    It also recommended some hardness adjustments but she said with my small pool a lot of folks don't bother with it and I would probably be ok.

    So I need aerate to get ph back up.

    I have been vacuuming leaves and my vacuum works decent but I really feel like I've lost some suction on my filter now from air getting in and I've read the manually and all online and can't figure out how to fix it. Return pressure seems good. I have a hanging skimmer connected that seemed to work great the first day and doesn't seem to be doing a thing now.

    I want to buy one of those Venturi jet returns but do they make an adapter for it to fit on my pool? I looked at the circulator too but good lord the price! Plus the adapter! I was thinking this would help keep stuff on the bottom circulated up?

    Thanks again for all the help!!!! It is much appreciated!
    Last edited by Nicolenewpoolowner; 07-02-2016 at 09:53 AM. Reason: To add additional info :)

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Also I added my signature but it's not showing for me?
    3500 gal. 14'x42" Intex Ultra Frame
    1600gph Intex Krystal Clear Sand/SWG

  19. Back To Top    #19
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    23,994

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Show sig box under the text box wasn't checked. I checked it for you. It should stay checked now.
    TFP Moderator
    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    17

    Re: New intex saltwater pool

    Oh cool, thanks!
    3500 gal. 14'x42" Intex Ultra Frame
    1600gph Intex Krystal Clear Sand/SWG

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •