Water Balance for SWGs and Pool Chemistry

[millerman92]

Today I finally got my pH to 7.4 and T Alkalinity to 80.


I read the article Water Balance for SWGs. It seems that it is recommending

FC 4-6 ppm
pH 7.5 - 7.8
TA 60-80
CYA 70-80

To achieve the above levels poolmath says to use:

80oz 6% bleach 10 cups

18oz backing soda

85oz stabilizer CYA

My chemistry was:

FC 3
TC 3
CC 0
pH 8
TA 90
CYA 42



I have read the SWGs are a major cause of high pH 8+.

Has anyone used the guidelines in the article and how successful have you been keeping the the levels especially pH at at the level indicated?

Thanks So much

Bill

 

[ping]

Our SWG guidelines work just fine.

Baking soda is used to raise the TA, you don't need to add it according to your posted numbers. Most SWG pools never need baking soda.

You need to lower the pH into the 7's. When the pH gets above 7.8 it is difficult to read how high it really is. I recommend to lower the pH to 7.5 once it reaches 7.8. When the pH gets high it can cause scaling inside the SWG cell.

Keeping the TA in the 60-80 range will result in the pH to rising slower than if the TA were higher. This will also help to keep the cell from scaling.

 

[millerman92]

Our SWG guidelines work just fine.

Baking soda is used to raise the TA, you don't need to add it according to your posted numbers. Most SWG pools never need baking soda.

You need to lower the pH into the 7's. When the pH gets above 7.8 it is difficult to read how high it really is. I recommend to lower the pH to 7.5 once it reaches 7.8. When the pH gets high it can cause scaling inside the SWG cell.

Keeping the TA in the 60-80 range will result in the pH to rising slower than if the TA were higher. This will also help to keep the cell from scaling.

Thank you for the information. i now have my pH 7.6 and TA 70 should I begin to adjust my CYA from 42 to 70? My FC seems to stay at 3 my SWG runs 12 hours during the day at 80% (pool in sun all day).

Should I add Clorox to bring FC up? I am just a little confused as to what sequence of chemistry change I should use do to begin using the Water Balance for SWGs system.

My current chemistry is:

FC 3
TC 3
CYA 42
PH 7.6
TA 70
CH not tested i guess this is Calcium Hardness which i do not test as liner is vinyl.


Thanks,

Bill

 

[ping]

I see you have the K-2005 test kit, do you have the FAS/DPD test added on to test the FC? Without an accurate FC test, it is difficult to read the true FC level.

I would adjust the CYA level to 70 for now and adjust the FC up a bit to meet the suggested level for FC/CYA ratio. This way you should not overshoot the CYA level.

Whenever I want a bump up in FC I always add bleach.

 

[millerman92]

I see you have the K-2005 test kit, do you have the FAS/DPD test added on to test the FC? Without an accurate FC test, it is difficult to read the true FC level.

I would adjust the CYA level to 70 for now and adjust the FC up a bit to meet the suggested level for FC/CYA ratio. This way you should not overshoot the CYA level.

Whenever I want a bump up in FC I always add bleach.

My Taylor 1515A should arrive today.

You did see the chemistry I posted correct.

The only thing I should need to do is add liquid chlorine 80oz clorox to bring FC up. but I do not know how to keep it there.

and add 85 oz dry stabilizer. I will test chemistry before I start Do you use a SWG i did not see it on your signature. If so do you use the Water Balance for SWGs process?

Thank,

 

[ping]

The K-2005 test kit does not include the FAS/DPD chlorine test that you are getting today so I was questioning how you were testing the FC. Color comparison does not give an accurate test result like the 1515A will.

Once the CYA is bumped up the chlorine should last longer and not be burned off from the sun as fast as it is now when the CYA is at 40. You adjust the chlorine level by adjusting the SWG output % and/or pump run time. During the winter I get by with 3 hours of pump run time and SWG output of <10%. During the summer I have to adjust it to 11 hours of run time and 70% output.

My signature lists the Hayward AquaRite T-15 SWCG and yes, I use TFP water balancing parameters.

 

[millerman92]

The K-2005 test kit does not include the FAS/DPD chlorine test that you are getting today so I was questioning how you were testing the FC. Color comparison does not give an accurate test result like the 1515A will.

Once the CYA is bumped up the chlorine should last longer and not be burned off from the sun as fast as it is now when the CYA is at 40. You adjust the chlorine level by adjusting the SWG output % and/or pump run time. During the winter I get by with 3 hours of pump run time and SWG output of <10%. During the summer I have to adjust it to 11 hours of run time and 70% output.

My signature lists the Hayward AquaRite T-15 SWCG and yes, I use TFP water balancing parameters.

Sorry, I obviously missed that. Well the pump is not running 13 hours from 6am to 7pm. I will check chlorine tomorrow. I suppose I could run 24 hours and test chlorine. It is all very confusing for someone new to the pool world of chemistry. Any help you will supply is welcome.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[millerman92]

My chemistry:

FC 12.4 i used the FSA/DPD test kit
TC not sure
CC not sure
pH 8
TA 90
CYA 50

the pool has been covered since a few days before Matthew got here and is covered now. My question is since winter is on its way should I adjust my chemistry to meet the Water Balance for SWGs or wait until spring?

Thanks.

Bill

 

[pooldv]

You can wait until spring. I would lower ph to 7.6 or so though.