Heater plumbing Q

[PNWDad]

I am setting up to plumb my heat-pump loop and would like to build-in a spot for a future solar/alternative inlet and outlet. From looking at other designs, it appears that the solar outlet returns to the line before entering the heat-pump inlet to increase the water temperature prior to going into the heat-pump. Question, if I want to setup up just to run the solar loop, do I need a bypass around the heat-pump? Or, do I just run one solar outlet and allow it to run through the heat-pump plumbing even when the pump is off?

Thank you.

 

[mas985]

Question, if I want to setup up just to run the solar loop, do I need a bypass around the heat-pump?

You don't need to bypass. Some heaters will alarm if they are on and don't have water running through them.

Or, do I just run one solar outlet and allow it to run through the heat-pump plumbing even when the pump is off?

Water doesn't flow with the pump off so I don't understand this question.

 

[PNWDad]

Sorry, even when the heat-pump is off (not the pool pump). So this scenario is ok: POOL Pump --> Filter --> Solar Loop (can be bypassed) --> Heat Pump (cannot be bypassed)--> Chlorinate --> Return ?

 

[mas985]

That's fine. Most pools with both heaters are plumbed that way.

 

[PNWDad]

I have a flow/hydraulic question for you. I'm planing something like the following:


If I implement this, and I have both heat-pump valve open 100%, the straight by-pass closed, and the IC40 valve open 100% will the hydraulic forces at the point where they meet back into the main straight line cause the check valve to work improperly or allow supper chlorinated water past the check valve and back in to the heater?

 

[mas985]

Why are you not just putting every thing in series except solar loop?

What is the check valve for?

Here is how it should be plumbed (ignore spa and bypass):

 

[PNWDad]

Good Q, after speaking with Pentair about the 80 GPM limitation on the IC40, and their recommendation to install it on a bypass loop in installations where 80 GPM may be achieved or exceeded, I came up with that drawing. I would be able to manually adjust flow to the different components and not worry about damage to the IC40 when we run the suction side cleaner at high RPM off the 3HP VS Pump.

 

[mas985]

You have a VS pump. If there is no reason to run 80+ GPM then just don't do it. Cap the RPM so you never get there. Also, the bypass for the SWG can be just around the SWG but still after the heater so technically in series.

 

[PNWDad]

Do you see any technical problem with the drawing I proposed? I would like to be able to bypass the heat system, since the pool will not be used about 1/2 the year.

- - - Updated - - -

The check valve is to make sure that I do not get back-flow into the heat system when it is not in use. I've purchased a Jandy 2/2.5 for that location.

 

[mas985]

You will never get back flow through the heater so the check valve is unnecessary. However because of solar you should have one right after the filter.

However the issue is going to be solar. The swg will bypass flow and pressure around solar so that is an issue. If you want to bypass the heater, just bypass the heater only.

 

[PNWDad]

My solar field is lower than my filter, pump, and pool level by 4 feet.
Are you saying that the water will prefer to go through the IC40 vs. the solar manifold because of the resistance?

 

[mas985]

Yes.

You are better off having the SWG with it's bypass after the heater. If you want a bypass for the heater put in a separate bypass for just the heater but when solar runs, the bypass will be off. You will also want the bypass off for the heater too or else you will have run the VS at a higher more expensive RPM.