Phosphate problem off the chart

[tim5055]

Since I am basically going to be dead in the water for a couple days

I think what I will do is lower the pool water by 50% leaving me with about 5000 gal of pool water and then slam it before refilling just for good measure...

If this sounds like a bad idea or if members see a potential drawback, please let me know...

Waiting on my Penteck housing and filter in the meantime to help out with the metal issues in my well water..

Blizz

Can you run the pump through all pipes like skimmers with the water this low?

You also could have areas hiding algae that would be above the water level but stay warm and damp during your SLAM. As soon as you refill you just reintroduce this algae into the pool when you refill.

I say refill before you SLAM

 

[fmblizz]

I can flow through all the lines with the exception of the skimmer although I suppose I could place my small portable pump in the deep end and have the output flow into the skimmer... As it stands right now I have not seen any trace of algae for 3 days. Your concern certainly makes sence though..

blizz

 

[tim5055]

I can flow through all the lines with the exception of the skimmer although I suppose I could place my small portable pump in the deep end and have the output flow into the skimmer... As it stands right now I have not seen any trace of algae for 3 days. Your concern certainly makes sence though..

blizz

I guess all I can say is that the methods we recomend have worked in tens of thousands of pools when followed as written. Once you start changing parameters or modifying the system questions arise.

Another thing I thought about is touched on in your question. When you drain and end up with "about 5000 gallons" do you treat it as 5000, 4000, 6000. Different volumes will result in differing amounts of chlorine you need to add to get to shock level.

Stick with the published instructions of the SLAM Process

 

[fmblizz]

got it.... no matter how much water I have remaining as long as I use the chlorine/cya chart and achieve the proper shock point during frequent testing it should not be an issue... Also can you over shock it during a slam??? just wondering as the cost of an additional gallon of two of chlorine is minimal...

blizz

 

[tim5055]

If you are asking "if I add higher levels of chlorine will the SLAM go quicker/better" the answer we have found is not really. All it really does is cause more UV loss.

What we do say is if Pool Math says you need 100oz of 8.25% bleach the get back to shock level, go ahead and use the whole 121oz bottle.

 

[duraleigh]

You are getting absolutely terrific advice from Tim5055. I hope you will embrace TFP and the advice you are getting.....your pool will sparkle.

 

[fmblizz]

I'm all aboard TFP... I was on the forum last year also concerning a crystal clear but iridescent green pool.. This is the best site out there in my view. Have had a pool for many years and only in the last few since I came across the TFP forums did I ever hear much talk about the relationship between CYA and FC.

Thanks again Tim

Blizz

 

[Swampwoman]

FM, just remember that if you slam, you risk oxidizing your metals and consuming your sequestrant. So-doing can tint your water and cause stains.

With known metals and on well, it is best to avoid slam levels unless necessary for those reasons. Even with the pre-filtering, you will still have some iron going in on your fill.

Slam if you need to, then address any water tint or staining. But if you don't actually need to slam or can just keep your FC high but not quite at slam levels, you'd be better off in theory.

 

[fmblizz]

thanks Swampwoman.... that's great advice. I've had a problem once when shocking the pool to the point where all the sequestered metals fell out of suspension and the entire pool lit up like a crystal green emerald.... the water was still extremely clear and actually looked pretty neat but shocked me...

for now pool is still crystal clear with no signs of algae or metal tinting..

thanks again for your advise.

Gary Blizzard

 

[PAGirl]

Perhaps an OCLT would determine if a SLAM is needed? (After the refill, of course)

 

[fmblizz]

Here are two pic's of my pool as of this morning... FC reading of only 5,, -0- CC

I really hate to dump 33% of the water which is 82 deg. but I got to do it to get the CYA in check..



Can't post 2nd picture.. not sure why..

 

[fmblizz]

a little off topic but how do I delete attachments... I posted some pic 2 years ago but I don't know how to get to them to delete them if it is even possible.

Thanks in advance
Gary Blizzard

 

[PAGirl]

You can use a host site like Photobucket to post pictures. Upload to your acct., the click on the picture you want, copy the IMG code and paste it into your post here.

 

[fmblizz]

thanks pagirl.. I'll try that.

Gary Blizzard

 

[fmblizz]

still crystal clear but CYA is 90

 

[JVTrain]

If you're clear now and no sings of algae you could likely maintain the rest of the season at that CYA level. You'd be advised to keep the FC at 7 ppm or greater to prevent algae from getting started. Have you performed the OCLT?

 

[tim5055]

I agree with Joel. If you pass the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) just manage the pool this year with high CYA. You have to be vigilant with keeping your FC where it needs to be. I started at around 250 and slowly worked it down to the point that I'm actually floating pucks to bring it up a little.

If there is any way to rig up a way to capture rain water from a roof downspout it adds a lot of water when it rains. Look for downspout adapters for rain barrels for ideas.

 

[fmblizz]

I will do the OCLT and see what's going on... with a white pool it's a constant battle with the well water and iron staining..

Thanks for the replys..

Gary

 

[fmblizz]

One last question for this thread,,,,

Hope this doesn't open up a can of worms LOL

what do the members consider to be a safe swimmable FREE CHLORINE level.... I'm particularly concerned for grandkid's...

It appears that in most cases with pool stabilizer at elevated levels over 60, it is basically useless to chlorinate and see any effect of the sanitizer unless you are pushing your daily FC levels close to double digits..

Thanks again for all your help.

Gary

 

[needsajet]

The pool is safe for swimming when:
You can clearly see the bottom of the pool at the deep end;
The pH is between 7.2 and 7.8, and;
FC is between the minimum and shock level for your CYA level per theChlorine / CYA Chart.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

When I make that decision, I consider the error on the CYA test, and use one level down. So if my shock level is 28 ppm FC for CYA at 70 ppm, I use 24 ppm FC as the high level for swimming. This part is just my own opinion, because I understand the relationship and know it's ok even a bit higher, but I like to be on the safe side for my grandies. At 24 ppm FC, I noticed a faint smell of chloramines on my skin when I got out. That's residual FC combining with sweat, skin oils, etc. No one else here in our pool smelled it or felt it enough to comment. I'm a bit OCD, so I swim eyes open on my own after any major change or anything I'm concerned about.