Quick slam

cj3737

0
Jun 14, 2016
627
North Ogden, UT
All,

Thought I share my story of how I achieved a very fast slam.

When I opened my pool in the spring, it was filled with leaf debris and who knows what else. The sides of the vinyl were covered in calcium and muck. Water was surprisingly clear and a beautiful shade of green. The previous owners decided not to clean before they winterized so I knew I had quite a bit of time to get this fixed.

The pool was only half full so I started off by trying to get all the big pieces of nasty up from the bottom while It was filling. I was really hesitant about using “old” water but once I realized the broken down material wasn’t coming up without the pump, I let the water rise. Once full, I stirred up the gunk a bit to get it thru the filter while scrubbing the best I could with zero vis. I watched the pressure gauge very closely waiting for pressure spikes and as soon as it went up or I could hear a change in the pump, I backwashed the filter. Must have done it about 30 times before the water was clear enuf to get a glimpse of the bottom. Like all new pool owners, I knew about the shock process so that was my direction… 3 bags of 7 in 1 HTH from Walmart later, my pool was finally blue… Cloudy, but blue.. PROGRESS!! It wasn’t till a few days later, and the pump running the whole time did the water clear up a bit.. In the mean time, I found TFP and read hundreds of post about chemicals and slams and this and that… Looking back at the process, I wish I wouldn’t have spent the money on the bags of shock but apparently, I didn’t hurt my process at all.

Anyways… Found out my test kits were horribly inadequate (HTH OTO, old dpd kit found in the garage), so I ordered a K-2006C but it wasn’t going to be here for a few days… I knew I needed to slam but like most of us, I cant spend hours everyday testing and maintaining, so I had to do something to get it going. I knew my TC was 0 even tho I had trichlor tabs floating around but I found out that wasn’t the best approach. 3 gallons of bleach later, I finally had an TC reading. Had no clue what it actually was but the color changed to a shade of yellow. Had to guess it was over 10 but couldn’t be too sure. So I circulated and backwashed and cleaned and filtered until my kit showed up. Kit showed up on Wed so I planned to slam Friday. Tested FC at 9 CC at 1 (early chlorine prep helped to get my cc lower) PH 7.6, TA 230, CYA 0 and so on. Lowered my ph with a bunch of MA and once it was at 7.2 I added 3 lbs of CYA to try to get a reading so I could find a target FC. Thursday I finally had a slightly cloudy sample and checked the pool calc a few times and decided if I was slightly above 0 CYA and added 3lbs I would be around 30 or a bit higher. Decided to target 40. Chucked a bunch of bleach in Thursday evening and by the morning I was sitting at 16.5 FC. I just tried to maintain that while the sun was pounding the pool all day. Checked every hour and didn’t let it drop below 15. Once the sun set and about 4 hours after my last bleach add, I check and it was still sitting at 16 and CC .5. Time for the OCLT. I was kinda nervous about my results the next morning because I didn’t want to monitor the pool all day again. I read some posts about slams lasting a few days and I didn’t have that kind of time.. Woke up early the next day to test… FC 16 CC .25.. OCLT pass on the first go.

Its about a week later, and my FC levels are still dropping into the normal range and cc is pretty much non-existant. Looking back, I am glad I took a few extra days to prep with a higher amount of chlorine to start the process prior to the actual slam. Took less than 24 hours to pass so if you want a quick slam, put in the prep work and itll pay off in the long run..
 
Over the years, I would say "quick" and "slam" don't go together well. You certainly have a grasp on the chemistry but time after time we learn that a typical SLAM is not a 24 hour process.
 
I'm glad it worked out for you in the end but I have to make the counterpoint to your comment that "the bags of shock did not hurt the process".

In reality, the bags of shock added lots of stuff to your water that you did not need or want. That HTH shock is a mixture of calcium hypochlorite, magnesium sulfate (Epson salt to "soften" water) and aluminum sulfate (a floc). Based on your initial description that your water had a calcium problem, then the HTH stuff is exactly the wrong chemical to add as it not only increased your waters CH level but also added magnesium to your water (something it does not need) and sulfates (detrimental to plaster and SWGs and generally unnecessary to add to pools).

I know you added all this before you found TFP so no one blames you for that. These products are heavily marketed as "cure-all" solutions even though the multi-purpose products are effectively much weaker than using the individual constituents. But this is EXACTLY why TFP exists - to teach people how to care for their pools by testing their own water and adding only the chemicals that it needs.

The TFP methodology may not be the fastest way to the end result but it is the safest and easiest way for a pool owner to get results that last for the long term and to stay away from the high price, heavily marketed pool products that only serve to drain the pool owner's wallet.
 
Over the years, I would say "quick" and "slam" don't go together well. You certainly have a grasp on the chemistry but time after time we learn that a typical SLAM is not a 24 hour process.

I agree.. I was prepared to spend days on it but wanted to show how a little elbow grease goes a long way instead of just dumping a bunch of chemicals in and expecting a clean pool
 
I'm glad it worked out for you in the end but I have to make the counterpoint to your comment that "the bags of shock did not hurt the process".

In reality, the bags of shock added lots of stuff to your water that you did not need or want. That HTH shock is a mixture of calcium hypochlorite, magnesium sulfate (Epson salt to "soften" water) and aluminum sulfate (a floc). Based on your initial description that your water had a calcium problem, then the HTH stuff is exactly the wrong chemical to add as it not only increased your waters CH level but also added magnesium to your water (something it does not need) and sulfates (detrimental to plaster and SWGs and generally unnecessary to add to pools).

I know you added all this before you found TFP so no one blames you for that. These products are heavily marketed as "cure-all" solutions even though the multi-purpose products are effectively much weaker than using the individual constituents. But this is EXACTLY why TFP exists - to teach people how to care for their pools by testing their own water and adding only the chemicals that it needs.

The TFP methodology may not be the fastest way to the end result but it is the safest and easiest way for a pool owner to get results that last for the long term and to stay away from the high price, heavily marketed pool products that only serve to drain the pool owner's wallet.

It may or may not have had a calcium problem.. I think the previous owner was a lazy tool (don't get me started on how the "fixed" things in the house) and didn't take the time to learn the chemistry. I do wish I would've found TFP prior to the bags of shock and not done them at all but live and learn. Ive checked everything now vs fill water and all the things I can test for are very similar so it seems the shock wasn't horribly detrimental to the process. It seems the other guy played the shock game and my new found scrubbing technique is highly efficient thanks to him.
 
I agree.. I was prepared to spend days on it but wanted to show how a little elbow grease goes a long way instead of just dumping a bunch of chemicals in and expecting a clean pool
That cal-hypo you used added another 10-15ppm of calcium to your pool. You mentioned a calcium issue ("The sides of the vinyl were covered in calcium and muck") but have not posted a test result for your calcium level.

Have you tested the CH after topping off the water level?

Dom
 
Last time I tested CH was after the slam and it was 230.. I haven't checked in a few days as Im fighting that high TA battle as well.. THe fill water is also around 230

- - - Updated - - -

May or may not have been calcium... White powdery substance that came off pretty easily. The PO left the chlorine float in the pool all winter
 
Last time I tested CH was after the slam and it was 230.. I haven't checked in a few days as Im fighting that high TA battle as well.. THe fill water is also around 230

- - - Updated - - -

May or may not have been calcium... White powdery substance that came off pretty easily. The PO left the chlorine float in the pool all winter
Sounds like you have a good grip on this.

Have you seen this article:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity

Dom
 
Tested all last night
FC 8.5
CC .5
PH 7.3
TA 180
CH 180
CYA ~40

PH is down with the TA battle... lowered yesterday with MA
CH is down from fill levels but I think the higher level may be a testing error.. (still learning the kit)
Fc is on the high side but its coming down from slam levels last weekend.

Ive been leaving the cover on most of the time to warm it up, which is keeping my FC level up. Ive got it 3/4 on right now to help burn off any cc left over
 

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