New house, new pool, bad SWG

Aquamar555

Active member
Jun 12, 2016
43
Augusta, GA
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello All,
Have been trying to learn as much as possible about pools on this forum. Glad for so many other great posts. Just moved to a new house, new pool, SWG T-15 cell dated 2003, pool people say the panel is bad and they will replace it for $1718 with an EasyTouch P-4 plus labor. This seems extreme... I sense a rip-off. Especially since I can still control the filter. The panel reads "No cell power 1" "check system" (see pic below). Obviously, the cell is old, most of what I read is that they last on average 6 years. So, we bought a new T-15 Hayward cell online, watched videos about how to replace. Seems easy enough, if we can get the old cell off (recommended hand tight, but this old one is one super tight).

The pool was being 'maintained' with Clorox tabs. It was in bad shape, we are in the middle of a SLAM, we are going on day 5. Once we get it SLAMed, we will maintain the FC per the current CYA (42) at the high end-- 7. We want to convert the pool to SWG, but are afraid that once we get off the old cell and install the new cell, we will discover something is truly wrong with the panel. We plan to add salt only after we find out if installing the new cell results in our panel re-setting correctly.

Can anyone tell me:

1. Are the steps I identified reasonable? Should we be doing anything else to check our equipment prior to switching? What kind of risk are we running that the panel is bad? Or will burn out? (I have read that the voltage can cause the panel to short, and then you have to remove the panel and soulder something). How do we prevent this?
2. After the SLAM, it seems like we should raise our CYA to approximately 80. Should I use the PoolMath to do this, or is there something I should know about raising CYA prior to switching to SWG?
3. Since we are just SLAMing now, we don't know how much chlorine our pool consumes in a day (it is hot here, pool is in full sun). Prior to the SLAM, we were unable to keep FC above a 1 or 2 (traditional pool, with no CYA), during this SLAM it is eating chlorine like its a full time job. I know nothing about our AquaRite panel or how to set the cell on a schedule. There was no manual that came with this pool equipment. Any recommendations for ensuring all of our time/energy that went into this SLAM doesn't go to waste as we transition to SWG?
4. Adding salt. How do I know what is a good salt level? And, how do I add the salt? Watched a few youtube videos, seems like you dump it in and move it around. It seems to dissolve on its own. Will this damage my vinyl liner?
5. I read on another post that I should have a salt test kit-- what kit should I get?

Here is our panel: I can't find a model number. I know it is old (2003 at the minimum).

Thank you for any advice!

20160621_214627.jpg
 
Howdy! Awesome you are slaming first! ...

-You can download the manuals for your Aquarite from the Hayward website. You should get the basics about how your SWG works from there. Then come back here and read the PoolChem sections that are specialized for SWG for more detail. The Pool Math calculator can even calculate your salt level for you. Obviously you'll need to test your water to find out how much salt it has in it to begin with. You can have it tested at a pool store to give you a rough reading, but obviously a real test kit is better. And a little tip.. whatever amount you calculate.. don't dump it in all at once. every system acts a little differently and I've found at least with mine that the calcs seem to over estimate my salt needs, at least according to what my equipment detects. Your going to want to get your salt to between 2700 and 3400 PPM.

Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs

I'm sure you've already been there.

It looks like you have one of the AquaLogic automation systems.. check here:
Manuals | Resources - Hayward Pool Products

I can't tell the model from the pic. But this should get you close.
 
Okay, so found the manual (THANKS :) ) read it, found out how to troubleshoot it. Seems that we should try out the new salt cell to see if we can get a reading. But, with it being out of commission for so long, will this burn out the circuit? I am not an electrical person, just have read that these things can happen.

Pool store said 800ppm of salt right now.

Also, is a big range of salt. Between 341-457lbs of salt to raise either 2700 or 3400 respectively. So, what is best in that range? Especially if we are having a problem keeping chlorine in the sun. Is it better to have salt on the high end expecting that it needs to 'use' it to create Cl?
 
Plug it in and see what happens! don't forget to cross your fingers. The controller runs all the time so putting a new cell on it is probably better than the bad cell...

Shoot for the low end of the range and see. I think its a bigger hassle to drain water out of the pool if you over shot the salt concentration than it is to just add more salt. So I would add half and see if the concentration goes up what you expect (half way) and then half again to slowly bring it to concentration you desire. From experience I did not have a good estimate of my pool's volume (its a free form shape) so I would have way over estimated the salt it I when with my first calculation...

Just get the salt in the range for the cell and see how it goes.
 
Sounds like a plan! Heading to Boston for a conference, once I get back we'll plug in. Tried several stores yesterday for pool salt (Walmart, Costco, Lowes, Home Depot), all of them are out of it. Lowes guy said Solar Salt will be fine. I looked online and did some reading, seems the jury is out-- Solar salt may have organics in the water (and what is the point of the slam if it isn't to get rid of those?), but others in this forum use it and say it is fine--

Need to get salt up then will get cell going...
 
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