Messed up

[cpeterson70]

Well, we got a pool. Have had water about a month or so. Was doing well with water chemistry, though seems we were constantly adding MA and liquid chlorine. Feeling confident, I decided to add boric acid. The dummy that I am just started putting the acid in the pool before double checking. The packing slip said boric acid, but the bucket said citric acid. That was Saturday. Today I have a swamp.

Pool is about 13,500 - 14,000 gallons if the meter was correct. All Jandy equipment (Dev60, 2.0 pump, jxi heater) and Del Ozone Eclipse10.

Saturday, I put the "boric" acid in then let the water circulate. Tested the water and it was extremely acidic, low TA and no borates. That's when I got a clue...to how stupid I am. The ph was stable within 24 hours adding MA. I also added baking soda to increase TA (now high). I have added tons of liquid bleach. Yesterday morning, I cleaned the filter. When I turned it back on, a cloud of dirty water entered the pool. Last night, I dumped 5 gallons of 10% liquid bleach into the pool. A couple of hours later, no FC reading. Now totally cloudy. This morning I added 2 qts of algaecide.

Frustrating. I do not know what to do next?

pH - 7.5
FC -0
TA - 180
CYA - between 30 - 40

 

[PAGirl]

I think it will help you to read the AA treatment article Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains though you can ignore the sequestrate part. It mentions needing to use quite a bit of chlorine/bleach afterward.

 

[duraleigh]

Well, you know what you did wrong so let's go forward.

1. Stop tossing stuff in your pool - now...this includes the algaecides which served you no purpose.

2. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School - understand what each parameter means and why you test for them

3. Post a full set of test results. We got your FC, TA and CYA but we need pH and CH

4. Tell us what test kit you are using.

5. This pool is easily saved but you have to change your pool management practices

6. Last, read #1 again - that's what got you here and you'll stay here if you don't stop.

I know I am harsh but this forum will help you a thousand times over but you have to stop guessing......slow down and you will learn and your pool will sparkle like it used to.

 

[cpeterson70]

My ph is 7.5. Just reran the CH and it doubled from yesterday. It is 500!

- - - Updated - - -

Test kit is TF-100

 

[PAGirl]

My ph is 7.5. Just reran the CH and it doubled from yesterday. It is 500!

- - - Updated - - -

Test kit is TF-100

Can you add the details of your pool to your signature?


Pool School - Getting Started

 

[cpeterson70]

Sorry...I thought it was there.

 

[duraleigh]

CH and it doubled from yesterday. It is 500!

That's really not possible so you need to work on your testing methods. That said, I don't see CH as particularly relevant to this particular issue so let's start without it.

FC - 0
CC - You don't post them and you must sooner or later but we can start without them.
TA - 180
CH - to be determined
CYA - 30-40 ppm

Ok, with those numbers and the visual appearance of your pool, you need to SLAM....plain and simple. Stay out of the Pool Store, don't buy anything that's not called for in the SLAM and, after you read how to do it, start the SLAM process.

Your initial dose of chlorine will be about 16 ppm (use poolmath to calculate it) and then it will be your task to test the FC and continually return it to 16 ppm. Read those last words again....continually return it to 16 ppm. As the chlorine is consumed, you must bring it to 16 ppm continuously or the SLAM will not work.

I would get 20 gallons of bleach (at least) to start. It will not go to waste and if you cringe at buying that much, just compare it to the expenditures you have made so far.

That you have not posted correct test numbers, implies to me you still may not have an understanding of the SLAM process. Ask lot's of questions because hundreds of us here will help if you ask us.

EDIT: Forget the borates for now. Let's get your pool back to crystal clear and then we'll address borates.

 

[cpeterson70]

I am not a chemist. I am following the directions in the TF-100 kit.

FC - 0
CC - 0 (there was no color change in the tube).

So I change the pool math calculator FC to 16? And I should get the liquid 10% chlorine?

Also, I want to shut my ozone system off but do not know how?

- - - Updated - - -

Pool Math calculator said just over 2 gallons?? Do I pour it directly into the pool or into the skimmer?

 

[cpeterson70]

The SLAM-ing instructions say to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. Is that the test in the TF-100?

 

[Isaac-1]

Ozone will not matter for now, so we can address that one later, have you added anything lately that would have caused your CH to go up (either calcium hardness increaser, or Cal-Hypo often sold as powdered chlorine / powdered shock?

 

[cpeterson70]

No, just the algaecide this morning and it was liquid.

 

[PAGirl]

The SLAM-ing instructions say to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. Is that the test in the TF-100?

Yes.

 

[duraleigh]

The SLAM-ing instructions say to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. Is that the test in the TF-100?

Yep. You have everything you need plus a lot of people rooting you on. Let's get that pool clear.

PAGirl and I posted at the same time, sorry.

 

[cpeterson70]

Thank you. Getting more chlorine now.

Do I put it directly into the pool or in the skimmer which goes through the filter and ozone before pushing it back into the pool? (at least that is how my mind sees it)...I'm an accountant, no engineer or chemist.

Also, I just put in a little more MA according to Pool Math Calculator to reduce ph to 7.2.

 

[PAGirl]

Thank you. Getting more chlorine now.

Do I put it directly into the pool or in the skimmer which goes through the filter and ozone before pushing it back into the pool? (at least that is how my mind sees it)...I'm an accountant, no engineer or chemist.

Also, I just put in a little more MA according to Pool Math Calculator to reduce ph to 7.2.

I put mine in front of a return so it gets circulated throughout the pool. I put the jug partly in the water and lay it down to minimize splashing.

 

[cpeterson70]

How long to wait to test chlorine level after adding chlorine? Or for that matter, pH after adding MA?

 

[nlindelldc]

How long to wait to test chlorine level after adding chlorine? Or for that matter, pH after adding MA?

30 minutes with pump running

 

[pooldv]

15 minutes with pump running.

Here is a handy page on pool chems, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[cpeterson70]

During this testing 15-30 minutes, do I need to test everything or just chlorine?

I now have it to:
FC - 4
CC - 3
pH - 7.5

 

[cpeterson70]

I had FC up to 11 then it dropped to 7. Is that possible or did I test wrong? I'm doing the same thing for all the tests.