update on Slam progress

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Sage UP

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Jun 19, 2016
14
Gladstone, Michigan
Re: Slamming process

Our in ground, vinyl lined pool is 20 X 40. (Volume 28,323gal.) The filter is sand. We use bromine rather than chlorine. Winter cover has been removed for about two weeks. Filter is running 24/7. Well water used to fill the pool I.e. bring thee water level up to skimmer level. Pool has been shocked on two occasions. It is very green, I believe because of oak pollen. Took water samples in to pool dealer two days running. Test results for day one: Total bromine--.1
pH level-8, Total Alkalinity-31, Calcium hardness--135ppm, (copper, Iron,Manganese,Nitrates,Phosphates,saturation index--all 0) Total dissolved solids 222.
Recommendatons: Add 21lbs of Alkalinity plus, added 19lbs

Vacuumed pool and backflushed twice
Took second sample to pool shop.
Results: Total Bromine--.22, ph level--8.2, Total Alkalinity--62, Calcium Hardness--138. Only other change was saturation index .4
Added 7.75 # Alkalinity plus, three bands shock
Day three---Added 4oz clarifier vacuumed twice, backflushed, now more od green/sage green
 
Your pool is green from algae, not pollen, you will need to kill the algae before it will clear.. the pool store is not your friend, they are there to drain your wallet, alkalinity up is baking soda you can buy 4 pounds from walmart for $2.34 Arm Hammer Pure Baking Soda, 4 lb - Walmart.com
while your there get the 10% pool shock/bleach from the pool aisle, way cheaper...

Is there a certain reason you don't use chlorine?

Here is a guide to using bromine but its mostly tailored to a spa but works exactly the same way How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)?)

please start here reading, we can help.. Pool School - Pool School

I hope this helps :)
 
we don't shock the pool here, it is a process called SLAM but you need a test kit to know what is going on with your water, the TF100 is the absolute best but the K-2006C is also a good test kit..

We use poolmath to do the calculations for adding chlorine and everything else to the water http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html


start here to get the hang of what is needed :) Pool School - Getting Started
 
The water readings for the pool state: Total Bromine .22ppm
PH level 8.2
Total alkalinity 62ppm
Totaldissolvedso,it's 222ppm
I read the suggested material where in slamming 3/4 C bleach to 250-300 gal water.
Pool is OD green and I can not see the bottom. Well water(hard water-iron and manganese) is used to refill/fill. The pool is surrounded by oaks. Water is not slimy or stinky.
I should add bleach 70oz or 8.75 C for 28,000gal
 
Bromine is not really part of the methods we teach here. Unfortunately, once you have a bromine pool, it's hard to switch to chlorine unless you completely (or nearly completely) drain your pool. Our SLAM procedure is tailored to chlorine pools so your results will vary if you attempt to follow a modified SLAM process. If you want some details and some reading to chew on, I would recommend reading this thread. New Pool Owner - Bromine and this sticky thread on how to use bromine (tailored for spas): How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)? and some more considerations in this thread: I use bromine

Bromine is a bit off the deep end for most experts here and isn't generally recommended for an outdoor pool because it's more expensive and has no protection from UV degradation like CYA does for chlorine.
 
I have retested pool using Aquacheck strips. Today's results Hardness--6-22ppm. Bromine--0. Alkalinity--80-120ppm. pH 7.2? I have cheesecloth on skimmer, removing oak pollen. Pool is yellowish green. I have been vacuuming, back flushing, skimming for four days. I ave added six bags of shock in that time. Should I resort to an algaecide before attempting to add more shock? Becoming so frustrated. Please help!
 
Without a test kit that can measure bromine (the FAS-DPD test) you're flying blind. What kind of shock are you using? You'd be best served using liquid chlorine (aka bleach) rather than powdered shocks that are more expensive and have other chemicals you don't need in your pool. Have you read anything in Pool School?
 
Yes, I have read several of the articles. Algae, slam, Floc, etc I have used one pound bags of shock for bromine pool. I need to get a better test kit(Taylor). I plan to vacuum, skim, backwash, change cheesecloth on skimmer. Then get bleach to use as shock for pool. Also try to get a kit which measures bromine more accurately. As I said the test strips said 0 Bromine, pH 7.2-7.6. I know the problem is algae and oak pollen. How much bleach do I use?
 

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Sage UP said:
I have retested pool using Aquacheck strips. Today's results Hardness--6-22ppm. Bromine--0. Alkalinity--80-120ppm. pH 7.2? I have cheesecloth on skimmer, removing oak pollen. Pool is yellowish green. I have been vacuuming, back flushing, skimming for four days. I ave added six bags of shock in that time. Should I resort to an algaecide before attempting to add more shock? Becoming so frustrated. Please help!
Click to expand...

Just to confirm, when are you receiving your test kit, without it you have really not started the SLAM.. please do not add algaecide, it just makes things worse and please do not use anything with copper in it..
 
Sage UP said:
Yes, I have read several of the articles. Algae, slam, Floc, etc I have used one pound bags of shock for bromine pool. I need to get a better test kit(Taylor). I plan to vacuum, skim, backwash, change cheesecloth on skimmer. Then get bleach to use as shock for pool. Also try to get a kit which measures bromine more accurately. As I said the test strips said 0 Bromine, pH 7.2-7.6. I know the problem is algae and oak pollen. How much bleach do I use?
Click to expand...

The FAS-DPD test for free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC) also tests accurately for bromine. That test is included with the TF-100 from tftestkits.net (see my signature) and the K-2006. When using a 10 mL sample, the test will measure FC/CC at 0.5 ppm per drop for chlorine and 1.25 ppm per drop for bromine. Same reagents, same test.
 
Test kit HTH 6 way
Results as of 11:00 this a.m. EST after 8 gallons bleach yesterday.
chlorine .5. Bromine 1. PH 7.5? Cya supposed to turn cloudy, remained clear. Alkalinity first solution supposed to turn green, became Mediterranean blue. When titrant drops added, supposed to turn red. After 15 drops, light gold.
I assume more bleach is in order! How much? Anything else?
 
We're running under the assumption that this is a bromine pool so you should be testing 0 for CYA and don't need to test for it.

On the TA test, depending on FC levels, the color change can be different. See here: Pool School - Total Alkalinity

Rinse the sample tube with pool water.
Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 25 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 25 ml mark.
Add 2 drops of R-0007 and swirl to mix.
Add 5 drops of R-0008 and swirl to mix. The solution should turn green or blue. If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero, and your PH is very very low (4.5 or lower).
Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0009 one drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less red, pink, yellow, or clear. The sample may switch between green, blue, and gray while you are adding drops. That is not the color change you are waiting for.
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your TA level. Remember that the final drop, which didn't cause any further color change, doesn't count.
Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.
Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.

- - - Updated - - -

This is a non-standard SLAM procedure because it is a bromine pool so the only advice I can give is to keep targeting 10 ppm FC with your dosing and proceed until you're not seeing CCs above 0.5 ppm, you pass an OCLT and the water is completely clear.
 
Once a bromine pool... always a bromine pool. What your bleach is doing right now is reactivating bromide ions that are in your pool and converting them to bromine. Assuming you still have bromide ions in your pool left over from previously using bromine tablets. You must have residual bromide in your pool unless you have completely drained it or have not used any source of bromine tablets for quite some time. Your FAS-DPD test tests for either of these two. If you get a result of 10 drops on a 10 mL sample, if you had a chlorine pool that would be 5 ppm FC. The same result in a bromine pool is ~12.5 ppm bromine.

What I've been advising you to do is raise your tested FC level up to 10 ppm and maintain until the pool passes the SLAM criteria. You're actually raising your bromine level to about 25 ppm in doing this.

Your Alkalinity is 140 ppm based on that result.
 
On Friday(25) I added 7.5 # of super shock. Cleaned out filter, washed skimmer sock. Did not backwash. Numbers: CL 7 pH 8.3. Total alkalinity 69 ppm
Sat. vacuumed in the a.m., skimmed. Cleaned out filter, skimmer. No back wash. Pool murky, but lightening up.
Sun. Pool clearer. After skimming, vacuuming, skimming in a.m. Cleaned out skimmer, pool filter, did not back flush. Could see bottom on shallow end and around perimeter of deep, but can not see main drain. Skimmed again in p.m. Turned off filter allowing settling?
June 27--noon Tested. Numbers CL 5 Br. 10 pH 7.35
performed Total Alkalinity test
When adding alkalinity indicator, water
 

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