So I posted a while ago about tracking down a suction side leak, and unfortunately it ended up being a leak in one of the pipes under the concrete. I had American Leak Detection find the spot, but I'm having a horrible time getting a pool repair company to help me. I've had a couple people decline the work or recommend I talk to somebody else, and several others just not return my repeated calls / emails. The only quote I've gotten was $4500 which was a lot more than I expected and they can't do the work until September! I'm guessing everybody's busy with easier / more profitable work during the pool season and doesn't want this job? Not sure. I'm in the Seattle area if anybody happens to have a recommendation, but I've contacted the 7-8 pool repair / contractors I know of in the area.
So I'm wondering a few things:
1. $4500 seems crazy expensive. Others agree? I don't think there's anything particularly difficult / tricky about my situation.
2. Should I be looking outside of "pool companies" and see if a normal plumber would be able to take the job and do it properly (for less than $4500 and sooner)?
3. How hard would it be to just do it myself? I don't have any concrete experience and only minor PVC experience, but it really doesn't seem like it should be that hard. I can rent a concrete saw for ~$50. Not sure if I'd need a jackhammer too or just a sledge hammer to break up the square to be removed. Then I imagine it's just a matter of excavating the dirt / sand / whatever down to the pipe. Is repairing underground PVC particularly tricky? I imagine I'll essentially just cut out a section and replace it, but the couplings may be tricky due to lack of space / maneuverability... And then I don't have experience laying concrete (once the repair is done), but worst case I imagine I could find somebody to do just that part.
4. If I tackle it myself (or hire a plumber that doesn't typically do pool repair), it *would* be nice if I could pressure test the repair before closing it up. Anybody have experience with this? I guess I'd need something like this and a closed plug and open-stem plug to isolate the line (plus an air compressor of course)? Is that all there is to it?
Anyway, thanks for any and all comments / suggestions!