First pool is going up this weekend! Very excited, but nervous.

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selkieinme

selkieinme

0
Jul 12, 2015
48
Winterport, Maine
Sand was delivered this morning, the rest of the equipment arrives later today, and they may even get started this afternoon. If not, they'll definitely be starting tomorrow and I am beyond excited! Is there anything I should NOT let the pool store do if I want to do the TFP method? I want to make sure I get off to the right start and I'm assuming they'll be setting it up with chemicals initially? Or not? They did say something about bringing them a water sample after it's up. :confused: I've got the test kit, SWG, and will be using borates (though I plan to purchase ProTeam Supreme Plus for this year, just to simplify things a bit). They said they do have bags of salt there and to let them know how many I needed but would it be less expensive/better to get it elsewhere? Anything I'm not thinking of? Thanks, everyone!
 
I would suggest keeping good notes and make sure to write-down exactly what the installers plan to add and in what quantities. Stay way from algaecides since they tend to add copper. As soon as water reaches the skimmer, post a full set of results and we'll help you from there.
 
Don't let the pool store do anything! Keep them away from your pool. Go read the articles in Pool School section of this site.

First thing to do is get the recommended TF-100 test kit and follow the directions on this site (look at PoolMath) to set up your chemicals.
You will need to add Cyanuric Acid (CYA) sold as "stabilizer". Make sure the active ingredient in it is just Cyanuric acid. It's a powder.
Add the recommended amount (see pool math on this site) to get up to 70. Then wait a week and test again to make sure it's right. It takes a week to register. A good way to add CYA is put it in a sock and hang the sock over the side in front of the filter return. Give the sock a squeeze once in a while.
Also right away, get bleach and follow pool math instructions to bring your chlorine up to recommended level (4 or 5). Use bleach rather than making your SWG do it. SWG is mainly good for maintaining chlorine, not raising it.
Your SWG should maintain chlorine from there, but you will need to test daily for a while until you figure out how long you need to run it to maintain the chlorine levels. Meanwhile, add bleach as needed to make sure you don't drop below 3. You want to get chlorine up right away so you won't get algae started.
Also manage your PH as needed using acid or baking soda depending on whether you need to raise or lower. Your target is somewhere around 7.5.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Thanks! I have been reading and reading and, truth be told, my head is spinning. But I already have my TF-100 test kit, complete with magnetic stirrer and tests for borates and salt so I'm prepared to learn! I guess I'm just not sure of what the normal process is for all this but I'll have some answers soon since they are on their way now. I know they equip me with a starter set of chemicals, I just don't know what that entails or whether or not they're anything I'm even going to want to use. I wasn't sure if I should let them do their thing and then take over or just start right out doing TFP so I definitely appreciate your advice there! I don't have bleach or salt yet so I'll have to get those. I'm assuming I don't want to use whatever chlorine they'll be supplying me with? Roughly how long can I expect it to take before I'll be able to swim?
 
You are in good shape already.
The chlorine they supply you with will likely contain cyanuric acid. You can use it, but if you keep using it, it will eventually raise your levels and then you have to replace water to get it back to the right level again.
If it's liquid chlorine, it's fine (and you can use liquid chlorine too if you find it cheaper). But bleach is just as good and usually as cheap. It's exactly the same chemical.
Your pool should be fine to swim on day 1.
 
While looking at the manual for my SWG, I've noticed that the "ideal water chemistry levels" listed there vary quite a bit from what is recommended here at TFP so which should I go by? Here's a comparison:

FC 1-3 ppm (TFP 4-6)
Salinity 3000-4000 (this is on par with TFP)
pH 7.2-7.8 (TFP 7.5-7.6)
Total Alkalinity 100-200 ppm (TFP 60-80)
Calcium Hardness 200-400 ppm (TFP 50-300)
CYA 50-75 ppm (70-80)

So it looks like the largest discrepancies are with the FC, Alkalinity, and CYA. Are these because the TFP method is different than standard recommendation, meaning I should maintain the TFP levels or do they differ because of the SWG, meaning I should maintain levels at what this SWG requires? I'm assuming the former but I want to be sure. ;)

Thanks in advance for your help and for bearing with me! I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions but know it will get easier. (Lightbulb moment! I'm assuming some of the discrepancies are due to the fact that they probably assume I have an in ground pool, yes?)
 
Many manufactures still use outdated industry standard levels for chemistry - not just the FC/CYA ratio. It's getting better, but not all companies have updated their products to acknowledge the relationship between FC and CYA. We've shown that because a SWG pool disperses it's FC slowly and consistently over a long period each day (as opposed to manual dumping), that the low FC needs more protection from the sun. So on the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below) you will see separate parameters for "Non" versus SWG-pools. It's perfectly safe for the pool, swimmers, and helps the SWG and T-cells operate more efficiently.
 
Thank-you! I just asked the guy what they would be putting in the pool and he doesn't seem to be sure (I think the guy at the store sends him with what he needs and he just puts it in) so I'm going to call and get the specifics but he mentioned a couple bottles of shock and algaecide - neither of which I want in my pool, correct? Any reason I should put one or both of these in if I'm filling the pool from my 1.5 acre pond (water's pretty clear, never had an algae problem)? If I don't want them, what do I tell these guys? Just to leave it and I'll take care of it? Are they going to think I'm a crazy lady? ;) I don't have my salt or any chlorine yet (this wasn't supposed to happen for a couple of days but the squeezed me in and I wasn't saying no!) but my husband can pick up what I need on his way home from work. I'll update this as soon as I talk to the guy at the store and have more specifics but the water's going in right now so I want to make sure they don't dump something in I don't want in there!

Texas Splash said:
Many manufactures still use outdated industry standard levels for chemistry - not just the FC/CYA ratio. It's getting better, but not all companies have updated their products to acknowledge the relationship between FC and CYA. We've shown that because a SWG pool disperses it's FC slowly and consistently over a long period each day (as opposed to manual dumping), that the low FC needs more protection from the sun. So on the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below) you will see separate parameters for "Non" versus SWG-pools. It's perfectly safe for the pool, swimmers, and helps the SWG and T-cells operate more efficiently.
Click to expand...
 
Correct - no algaecide. The shock you should ask ... "Liquid shock"? If so, that's just 12.5% chlorine and is fine. If it's something else like powdered shock, that means it adds other chemicals - primarily stabilizer. You do need stabilizer (CYA), but it's nice to add is separately for an exact dosage. You have a SWG, so you want a CYA of 70. Using the Poolmath Calculator, it tells me for your pool 122 ounces of granular stabilizer will take your CYA to 70.

FC on day 1 (before the stabilizer dissolved) you want an FC of about 3 ppm (half gallon of regular bleach - 8.25%). After that, stay around the 4-5 ppm range.

pH is always around 7.5-7.7, and no higher than 7.8

That should help get you going. Your TF-100 should confirm levels as they are added, but if you have more questions, let us know.

- - - Updated - - -

Just be careful with the CYA. If they do add something with stabilizer in it, then don't add 70 ppm of your own. Try to confirm how much they added so you know how much to add. If you feel confident they didn't add much at all, still be safe and add only enough for about 40 ppm. Then you can verify in a couple days what it all added-up to be so you don't go too high over 70 (total).
 

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Apparently, they were going to just leave the chemicals for me to add anyway so I don't have to worry about them adding the algaecide - Yay! The shock is granular - I have two 1 lb bags of ProTeam Quick Shock (99% Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione, Dihydrate and 1% Other Ingredients. Provides 56% available chlorine) and he told me to throw those in - should I do that? I'm not going to be able to get any stabilizer until at least Monday unless I can get that at Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart so if that other 1% is stabilizer, maybe I should go ahead and do that?

The SWG won't be able to run until tomorrow as my husband still needs to do the electrical part. My understanding is that I shouldn't start that until all the other chemicals are balanced anyway, correct?

What do you suggest I have my husband pick up from Lowe's tonight? I'm going have him get ten bags of Morton Solar Salt in the blue bag (pool place already tried to tell me this wasn't the same but I could try it and see if it works - my CircuPool SWG manual actually said to get water softening salt!) and some bleach - will a couple of jugs be enough? Anything else?

The pool guy already sounded irritated with me... I guess I better get used to that, huh? :D
 
According to the Poolmath calculator, 2 lbs (32 ounces) of dichlor will increase FC by 10 and CYA by 9.3. So if that's all you have for now I would say yes, go ahead and add it. Make sure to mix it around really well and not let it sit in one spot. You can also add the salt at any time so it can start dissolving. You'll need some bleach to hold you over for a few days until you get the SWG connected and adjusted to produce the right amount of FC each day. I would say 3-4 gallons should hold you through the weekend. But having only a CYA of 10 will hurt, and the sun will grab your chlorine very fast. Even if you only get one 4-lb container to add I would try. When you do get the stabilizer, follow these instructions:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...

Just make sure to never let the FC drop below 3 during this whole time of start-up to avoid algae. Good luck!
 
Looks like I can get Clorox Pool & Spa Stabilizer and Jasco Muriatic Acid at Lowe's, as well, so I'll pick up those in addition to the salt and chlorine, assuming these will work? Looks like this is a liquid stabilizer so how would I add it? And would I need just one bottle each of the stabilizer and acid? Heading outside now to do a couple water tests!
 
From looking it up online, it appears to be granular stabilizer but maybe there is a liquid form. Liquid is usually just more expensive.
PoolMath will tell you exactly how much you need to raise it to 70.
Do keep in mind that CYA takes 1 week before it will show up in tests so if you add it, wait a week to re-test.
 
I added the two bags of Dichlor by walking around the pool and sprinkling it in. That was probably an hour or so before I tested the water and the chlorine was high - a bit darker than the darkest yellow. I'm assuming that's because it hasn't circulated yet and I can't reach far enough into the middle of the pool to get a test where I didn't dump Dichlor? My pH was 7.4. So here's what I'm thinking about adding tonight if it's not too dark when we get back: 400 lbs salt and 115 oz stabilizer. Does that sound right? Is my chlorine good until tomorrow?
 
The Dichlor will raise your CYA by about 10. Poolmath suggests adding 109 ounces by volume of granular stabilizer to get from 10 to 70.
You don't want to overshoot your CYA since the only way to reduce it is by replacing water. Of course there's probably water to spare in Maine!
 
Is it ok to continue asking chemistry questions here or should I move this to another board? I didn't get a chance to add anything last night. I tested the chlorine and pH this morning and the chlorine is a good solid 5, if not a bit higher and the pH is 6.8. I know I need to raise the pH but I'm planning on getting ProTeam Supreme Plus tomorrow so should I wait to do anything to adjust that until then? I knew the CYA was going to be low but I did the test anyway and, as expected, I filled the vial all the way and could still see the dot so since the Dichlor should have raised it to 10, we're adding 109 oz now with the sock method. We're also adding seven bags of salt. I tested that, as well, and no salt registered but I don't want to overshoot it and another thread here suggested adding 2/3 of what I need to start so that's what I'm doing! Should I run any other tests or do anything else today (other than re-testing my chlorine tonight)? I'll be heading to the pool store to get the ProTeam tomorrow and they're expecting me to bring in a sample so I will probably do that this once. I'm sure they will try to sell me stuff but...

I picked up CYA, bleach, salt, and muriatic acid at Lowe's last night. Anything else I will need? Anything I'll definitely need to get from the pool store? Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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