Just getting started - some questions

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J

Jomalico

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Jun 15, 2016
4
Gatineau, Québec, Canada
Hello everyone!

I received my K-2006 yesterday. YEAH! (I'm in Canada... I paid the price...) So I'm all ready to get started but I need advice first.

Some background: I currently have a salt system. Unfortunately, the panel is playing tricks on me so it never started generating chlorine this year so I had a lot of problems with algae, the filter getting clogged, everything. The pool store is not close and I really got tired of explaining the issues and putting products in my pool that didn't seem logical. Anyways, I started reading and discovered this site and... another world...

I finally got my pool clear with adding chlorine in pucks (now I understand that is not the best way).

I tested the water for the first time yesterday with the K-2006 :

FC: 0.3
CC: 0.2
Ph: 7.7 (acid demand test took 1 drop to bring it down to 7.5)
Alk: 140
Calcium: 190
CYA: 33

Obviously the biggest issue here is lack of FC.


Question 1: How long after adding chlorine can you test a pool? I knew I had low chlorine when I got home yesterday so I added two cups of Clorox bleach. The results of the test avobe was taken two hours after I added the two cups. Would these cups show in the test or should I retest chlorine before adding more bleach?

Question 2: Should I go for 3 or 4 ppm of FC? If four, I will add 28oz of Clorox based on the PoolMath.

Question 3: The tool also advises I add calcium chloride and some stabilizer. Should I do this now or add the chlorine and wait a few days before adding anything else?

Last question: I did the CYA test and, while the other tests required only drops, this one required half a bottle. Does this mean that I will be able to do only 3 or 4 CYA tests? I guess I shouldn't do them very often?

Thank you so much in advance for your help and for opening my eyes... :cool:

Joël.
 
#1, 1-2 hours will work, make sure the pump is running and circulating when adding.
#2, follow the pool math chart, keep the fc between 4 and 12 IMO. At 2 or 3 it is too hard to keep from dropping to 0
#3, As long as you are not shocking the pool it should be ok to add the other stuff.
#4, yes, no need to do the cya test very often, it won't change unless stabilizer is added, you do a lot of draining, or after winter storage.
 
Sorry to hear about being in Canada, just teasing! Glad you got a kit. Assuming your water is still clear:
#1 - You can re-test for FC (and pH) 30 minutes after adding while pump circulates.
#2 - Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart Onestout has good advice above. I would round your CYA up to 40.
#3 - You have a vinyl pool - don't worry about CH now. As for the stabilizer - No, but see below.
#4 - That is why the TF-100 is recommended, blame Taylor for that.

I think you should raise your FC to 8-10ppm tonight once it is dark and conduct and OCLT Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) to determine if you have any lingering algae issues. If you fail OCLT, leave CYA where it is and start Slam. If you pass, save the extra CYA space for the occasional puck or two for vacation or weekend get away.

But you do need to add some FC asap - you don't want to go back green now.
 
It reads 300 ppm of salt which is not high enough to start generating salt and the generating salt light turns red. It went as low as 0 and as high as 600 ppm but won't go higher. I know I have the correct amount of salt (tested in store).

I had the store test the cell on a new panel and the cell worked fine identifying the right amount of salt. The store tested a new cell on my defective panel and the panel reads 300 ppm.

The store unfortunately told me they hadn't received the equipment to test the panel so I took everything back and that's where I am. (I not impressed by the service received by that store...). Any ideas? I was thinking of starting a new thread with that subject.
 
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