Question #1: I was testing my TA with my Taylor K-2005 test kit. Added 2 drops of first dropper. Added 5 drops of second. Water turned more Blue than Green on the first try and greenish blue on the second try. Added 3 dropper and water turns light orange instead of red no matter how many drops were added. It's a pretty straight forward test. Any idea as to why this is happening?
Question #2: I ran an experiment. On 6/14 I got my water tested for the last time seriously at the pool store. Today I tested myself with my kit as well as took a sample in to the store to see what results they would get (I wanted to see how off they were). Below are the results of each as well as the action I took.
Here's a few questions:
- If I drained 6 inches of water it makes sense that my CH dropped. Why did my CYA levels go up so drastically (Assuming the initial test was even accurate)?
- Would adding 6 inches of water make my TA levels spike 40 ppm?
- During the first test, they recommended phosphate remover. Not knowing better I added it. I've been cleaning the filter every time it gets above the recommended PSI and the cloudiness is improving slowly. When I inquired as to why my FC had jumped so high the Pool service manager said the phosphates were being removed so less chlorine was being used. I questioned this as I didn't believe that my SWG could pump out that much Chlorine and also given the fact that other than adding phosphate remover, nothing much has changed in the past 36 hours. Can phosphate remover really change the FC that much?
6/14 Store 6/16 Store 6/16 Self TC: 0 TC: 5 TC: 2 FC: 0 FC: 5 FC: 2 CC: 0 CC: 0 CC: 0 TA: 90 TA: 130 TA: ?? CH: 500 CH: 450 CH: 450 CYA: 60 CYA: 100 CYA: 100 Salt: 2900 Salt: 3100 Salt: N/A Phosphate: 2500 Phosphate: N/A Phosphate: N/A Recommended: No Action Rec Drain 6in and Refill Add Psphte Remover Add 45lbs Salt Increase SWG to 100