Taking control, but not confident in what I see

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509Pool

0
Jun 15, 2016
4
Spokane
Hello al-

I've been on the outside looking in for years but this year decided to trust my K-2006 and take control. However, I have been taking samples to the pool store, just for a 2nd opinion. For the record, the pool is clear, maybe a slight hint of cloudiness. I added about 20 oz of acid last night, but didn't appear to change much.

Current tests:
FC - 5
CC- 0
TA 100-125
CYA 70-80
PH ?? Blood orange color, which I would guess is way too high?

Questions:
How can I have FC of 5, but ZERO CC? I've not added any bleach for 2 days, cover has been on.
How much more muriatic acid do I add given I can't tell what the PH is? Per "Pool school" I come up with 19 oz but that is estimating what I think my PH is.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Yep, 0.0 CC is good :) You're likely thinking of Total Chlorine (TC) which is FC + CC

Never heard of blood orange pH test, hopefully someone comes along who has seen it. Try washing and triple rinsing the test tube and re-doing the pH test. How old is the indicator solution? Make sure you're using R-0004 for pH (5 drops)

With my K2006, high pH is purple. Low pH is a pale yellow.
 
Welcome to the forum :wave:

First of all the best advice you will receive here is that you must trust the results you get from the K2006. Inevitably, the comparisons you get when you mix your own results and TFP methodology and that of the pool store and their advice will lead to confusion and many contradictions. It really becomes a decision that needs to be made one way or the other.

To me a blood orange colour as you've described it is probably a 7.4 /7.6 so certainly not too high which is usually indicated by a more pinkish colour. If you like send an image of your comparator block with your pH sample-it might help us to give you a better idea.

You have a bleach/liquid chlorine pool right? Your CYA level is high for a a non-SWG pool and you are therefore going to need to keep an elevated FC level of around 9 if you maintain this CYA level. Ideally you should drain out some of your pool water to reduce you CYA levels and therefore be able to run a lower FC level. Is this an option? Your current level is too low it should always be maintained at a minimum level of 6 FC. Have a look at this Chlorine/CYA chart .

If your pool is cloudy an impending algae bloom could possibly be on its way so you should run an OCLT to see whether you may need to SLAM your pool.
 
Thank you everyone. Yes, chlorine pool..I will add to my signature. I ended up adding more acid last night and the PH looks perfect this morning. As for CYA, that has been an issue the last couple years, likely due to all the years of chlorine pucks through the chlorinator. I've already drained the shallow end of the pool and added fresh water this year. I'd rather not drain again if I can help it. To me, the CYA test is a little subjective because you are staring at a black dot...is the dot completely covered or almost covered. I don't see any cloudiness this morning...I think it was the way the sun was hitting the pool last night. FC is down to 5, I'll add bleach. Still worried about combined chlorine...the test says if CC is present it will turn pink after adding R-0003. No pink. One last comment, the pool store said to shock, which I didn't do. Do I need to SLAM? Thanks again.

Jezza said:
Welcome to the forum :wave:

First of all the best advice you will receive here is that you must trust the results you get from the K2006. Inevitably, the comparisons you get when you mix your own results and TFP methodology and that of the pool store and their advice will lead to confusion and many contradictions. It really becomes a decision that needs to be made one way or the other.

To me a blood orange colour as you've described it is probably a 7.4 /7.6 so certainly not too high which is usually indicated by a more pinkish colour. If you like send an image of your comparator block with your pH sample-it might help us to give you a better idea.

You have a bleach/liquid chlorine pool right? Your CYA level is high for a a non-SWG pool and you are therefore going to need to keep an elevated FC level of around 9 if you maintain this CYA level. Ideally you should drain out some of your pool water to reduce you CYA levels and therefore be able to run a lower FC level. Is this an option? Your current level is too low it should always be maintained at a minimum level of 6 FC. Have a look at this Chlorine/CYA chart .

If your pool is cloudy an impending algae bloom could possibly be on its way so you should run an OCLT to see whether you may need to SLAM your pool.
Click to expand...
 
At this point, since your CC is 0 (which is good, if you add 5 drops, and no pink, that is a good thing!) I would do an OCLT. If this fails, you need to SLAM. Also, right now, I would get your FC up to 9 as someone noted. (basically what Jezza said)
 
I essentially performed the OCLT test last night and FC dropped by one. However, it stayed the same or maybe down one. However, per the comments, that was a low number to begin with. Should I get FC up to 9 tonight and then perform OCLT again?
 
509Pool said:
I essentially performed the OCLT test last night and FC dropped by one. However, it stayed the same or maybe down one. However, per the comments, that was a low number to begin with. Should I get FC up to 9 tonight and then perform OCLT again?
Click to expand...

From what I have read on here, an OCLT should be performed with FC >= 10. So you need to get your FC up higher anyway. So around sunset, test your water, use Pool Math to add enough chlorine to get to 10. Wait at least 30 minutes, and test again to get your true FC. Record it. Check again in the AM, before the sun hits your pool. If loss greater than 1, you got something growing in your pool, and should start a SLAM.
 

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paulmaz said:
From what I have read on here, an OCLT should be performed with FC >= 10. So you need to get your FC up higher anyway. So AFTER sunset, test your water, use Pool Math to add enough chlorine to get to 10. Wait at least 30 minutes, and test again to get your true FC. Record it. Check again in the AM, before the sun hits your pool. If loss greater than 1, you got something growing in your pool, and should start a SLAM.
Click to expand...

I know might sound nitpicky. But slight correction above to really assure accuracy.
 
Everyone explained that CC at 0 is a good thing. That's because CC (Combined Chlorine) is an intermediate breakdown product that shows up if FC (Free Chlorine) has too big a job to do. So CC at zero is exactly what you want to see.
This concise explanation is really helpful: Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Good work on the pool!
 
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