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Thread: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

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    Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Hello al-

    I've been on the outside looking in for years but this year decided to trust my K-2006 and take control. However, I have been taking samples to the pool store, just for a 2nd opinion. For the record, the pool is clear, maybe a slight hint of cloudiness. I added about 20 oz of acid last night, but didn't appear to change much.

    Current tests:
    FC - 5
    CC- 0
    TA 100-125
    CYA 70-80
    PH ?? Blood orange color, which I would guess is way too high?

    Questions:
    How can I have FC of 5, but ZERO CC? I've not added any bleach for 2 days, cover has been on.
    How much more muriatic acid do I add given I can't tell what the PH is? Per "Pool school" I come up with 19 oz but that is estimating what I think my PH is.

    Thanks in advance for the help!
    16x32 Vinyl liner 21000 gal. Pentair Whisperfo
    Pentair Clean & Clear Plus (Cartridge filter)
    MasterTemp 250,
    Taylor K-2006
    Located in Pacific NW

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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    No CC is good. Do you have a SWG or are you adding chlorine manually?

    What pH did the pool store measure?
    50,000 gallon plaster in-ground salt pool with two 60 sq ft DE filters, two Intellichlor IC60 SWGs, two Intelliflo VS pumps, two Whisperflo pumps, two Pentair 400K BTU NG heaters, PCC2000 in-floor cleaning system...two everything.

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Yep, 0.0 CC is good You're likely thinking of Total Chlorine (TC) which is FC + CC

    Never heard of blood orange pH test, hopefully someone comes along who has seen it. Try washing and triple rinsing the test tube and re-doing the pH test. How old is the indicator solution? Make sure you're using R-0004 for pH (5 drops)

    With my K2006, high pH is purple. Low pH is a pale yellow.
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Welcome to the forum

    First of all the best advice you will receive here is that you must trust the results you get from the K2006. Inevitably, the comparisons you get when you mix your own results and TFP methodology and that of the pool store and their advice will lead to confusion and many contradictions. It really becomes a decision that needs to be made one way or the other.

    To me a blood orange colour as you've described it is probably a 7.4 /7.6 so certainly not too high which is usually indicated by a more pinkish colour. If you like send an image of your comparator block with your pH sample-it might help us to give you a better idea.

    You have a bleach/liquid chlorine pool right? Your CYA level is high for a a non-SWG pool and you are therefore going to need to keep an elevated FC level of around 9 if you maintain this CYA level. Ideally you should drain out some of your pool water to reduce you CYA levels and therefore be able to run a lower FC level. Is this an option? Your current level is too low it should always be maintained at a minimum level of 6 FC. Have a look at this Chlorine/CYA chart .

    If your pool is cloudy an impending algae bloom could possibly be on its way so you should run an OCLT to see whether you may need to SLAM your pool.
    11 000 gallons, IG, Fibreglass, Monarch Sand Filter, Davey Typhoon C100M 1HP pump, Davey Chloromatic Mc16CTO ESR SWG, Davey Pool Wall Climba Robot, Daisy Solar Cover,
    K-2006

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    +1 to Jezza's advice
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Thank you everyone. Yes, chlorine pool..I will add to my signature. I ended up adding more acid last night and the PH looks perfect this morning. As for CYA, that has been an issue the last couple years, likely due to all the years of chlorine pucks through the chlorinator. I've already drained the shallow end of the pool and added fresh water this year. I'd rather not drain again if I can help it. To me, the CYA test is a little subjective because you are staring at a black dot...is the dot completely covered or almost covered. I don't see any cloudiness this morning...I think it was the way the sun was hitting the pool last night. FC is down to 5, I'll add bleach. Still worried about combined chlorine...the test says if CC is present it will turn pink after adding R-0003. No pink. One last comment, the pool store said to shock, which I didn't do. Do I need to SLAM? Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Welcome to the forum

    First of all the best advice you will receive here is that you must trust the results you get from the K2006. Inevitably, the comparisons you get when you mix your own results and TFP methodology and that of the pool store and their advice will lead to confusion and many contradictions. It really becomes a decision that needs to be made one way or the other.

    To me a blood orange colour as you've described it is probably a 7.4 /7.6 so certainly not too high which is usually indicated by a more pinkish colour. If you like send an image of your comparator block with your pH sample-it might help us to give you a better idea.

    You have a bleach/liquid chlorine pool right? Your CYA level is high for a a non-SWG pool and you are therefore going to need to keep an elevated FC level of around 9 if you maintain this CYA level. Ideally you should drain out some of your pool water to reduce you CYA levels and therefore be able to run a lower FC level. Is this an option? Your current level is too low it should always be maintained at a minimum level of 6 FC. Have a look at this Chlorine/CYA chart .

    If your pool is cloudy an impending algae bloom could possibly be on its way so you should run an OCLT to see whether you may need to SLAM your pool.
    16x32 Vinyl liner 21000 gal. Pentair Whisperfo
    Pentair Clean & Clear Plus (Cartridge filter)
    MasterTemp 250,
    Taylor K-2006
    Located in Pacific NW

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    paulmaz's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    At this point, since your CC is 0 (which is good, if you add 5 drops, and no pink, that is a good thing!) I would do an OCLT. If this fails, you need to SLAM. Also, right now, I would get your FC up to 9 as someone noted. (basically what Jezza said)
    -Paul
    15k gallon IG plaster, 26x39 at widest points, sort of shaped like the great state of Texas!
    B2854 Pentair Challenger 1.5 HP single speed motor
    Tagelus TA-60 Sand Filter, Polaris 280, TF-100

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    mikemass's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Quote Originally Posted by 509Pool View Post
    Still worried about combined chlorine...the test says if CC is present it will turn pink after adding R-0003. No pink.
    That's a good thing. As stated above that's the result you want.

    Edit: paulmaz beat me to it.
    25 + year pool owner. Current pool (going on 11th year) - 38K gallon in ground Gunite/White Plaster, Spillover Spa, Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward 450k BTU NG Heater, Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic control with T-Cell-15 Salt Water Cell, Dolphin Explorer.
    You Need: Bleach, a A Test Kit & a Bookmark to "Pool School". Now what's your question?

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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    I essentially performed the OCLT test last night and FC dropped by one. However, it stayed the same or maybe down one. However, per the comments, that was a low number to begin with. Should I get FC up to 9 tonight and then perform OCLT again?
    16x32 Vinyl liner 21000 gal. Pentair Whisperfo
    Pentair Clean & Clear Plus (Cartridge filter)
    MasterTemp 250,
    Taylor K-2006
    Located in Pacific NW

  10. Back To Top    #10
    paulmaz's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Quote Originally Posted by 509Pool View Post
    I essentially performed the OCLT test last night and FC dropped by one. However, it stayed the same or maybe down one. However, per the comments, that was a low number to begin with. Should I get FC up to 9 tonight and then perform OCLT again?
    From what I have read on here, an OCLT should be performed with FC >= 10. So you need to get your FC up higher anyway. So around sunset, test your water, use Pool Math to add enough chlorine to get to 10. Wait at least 30 minutes, and test again to get your true FC. Record it. Check again in the AM, before the sun hits your pool. If loss greater than 1, you got something growing in your pool, and should start a SLAM.
    -Paul
    15k gallon IG plaster, 26x39 at widest points, sort of shaped like the great state of Texas!
    B2854 Pentair Challenger 1.5 HP single speed motor
    Tagelus TA-60 Sand Filter, Polaris 280, TF-100

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    mikemass's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Quote Originally Posted by paulmaz View Post
    From what I have read on here, an OCLT should be performed with FC >= 10. So you need to get your FC up higher anyway. So AFTER sunset, test your water, use Pool Math to add enough chlorine to get to 10. Wait at least 30 minutes, and test again to get your true FC. Record it. Check again in the AM, before the sun hits your pool. If loss greater than 1, you got something growing in your pool, and should start a SLAM.
    I know might sound nitpicky. But slight correction above to really assure accuracy.
    25 + year pool owner. Current pool (going on 11th year) - 38K gallon in ground Gunite/White Plaster, Spillover Spa, Hayward Cartridge Filter, Hayward 450k BTU NG Heater, Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic control with T-Cell-15 Salt Water Cell, Dolphin Explorer.
    You Need: Bleach, a A Test Kit & a Bookmark to "Pool School". Now what's your question?

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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    OK got it. I'll increase FC up to 10 tonight and test again in the morning and report back.
    16x32 Vinyl liner 21000 gal. Pentair Whisperfo
    Pentair Clean & Clear Plus (Cartridge filter)
    MasterTemp 250,
    Taylor K-2006
    Located in Pacific NW

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Taking control, but not confident in what I see

    Everyone explained that CC at 0 is a good thing. That's because CC (Combined Chlorine) is an intermediate breakdown product that shows up if FC (Free Chlorine) has too big a job to do. So CC at zero is exactly what you want to see.
    This concise explanation is really helpful: Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
    Good work on the pool!
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, CCL, and Aussie 4in1 (HTH); Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWC 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; prior pool AG 10k | Read Before Posting to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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