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Thread: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

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    IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    This is my 6th season with my IntelliChlor and it has worked great until this year. I have just run into a problem where the flow light goes red and the system stops generating chlorine (cell light not lite up).

    So to solve the issue I cleaned my cartridge filters, all baskets, and made sure all connections were tight so no possible water or air leaks. Still had the same issue.

    Weird thing I found was that when I have my jandy valve set to my return jets in the pool the flow is red, when I switch the valve so that the return is going to my waterfall the flow has a green light and so does the cell light.

    This made me think that there maybe some blockage in my returns. To solve that today I blew out all my lines to see if anything came out. All was clear.

    Hooked the system back up and it set to my return jets and it seemed to be working now Ya!! and it seemed to do be good when I checked 4 hours later making me think there was something in the line (although I didn't see anything).

    NOT SO FAST KEMO SAHBEE.

    Last checked at 4:00pm it was good. Wife just checked now at 8:00pm and the flow is now back to red.

    Any more thoughts I could try before calling Pentair, warranty is obviously out since it is 6 years old.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Forgot to mention that I looked at the cell and there was no buildup and the fins are clean and shiny. For the 6 years I have had the Intellichlor this as always been the case.

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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    hmmmm, do you remember you filter PSI from last year, is it close to this year?

    when was the last time you changed the filters? (not sure what filter) Could you fill out your signature, it helps with things like this Trouble Free Pool
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    Updated my signature and here is what I have.

    Leisure Pools - Rivera (16,000 gal.) Pentair System: IntelliChlor IC20, Clean & Clear Plus Filter, MasterTemp 250 Gas Heater, SuperFlow Pump

    Don't know of the top of my head the exact number but my filter PSI is at the same spot it has been for the last 5 years.

    This would be my 3rd season with these filters but taking them out and cleaning them they still looked pretty good.

    If it was a problem with the filters not clean I would think I would get bad flow when I switch the return to my waterfall as well.
    Leisure Pools - Rivera (16,000 gal.)

    Pentair System: IntelliChlor IC20, Clean & Clear Plus Filter, MasterTemp 250 Gas Heater, SuperFlow Pump

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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    hmmm, it looks like from what your seeing is the cell is at the end of its life or really close... could you take it out and have leslies pool do a diagnostic on it? They should be able to tell you what is happening..

    I am not sure why its working with the waterfall and not normally though..

    I see you sig
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
    links: pool school * Recommended-Levels * SLAM * CYA chart * Test kits * How To Post Pictures * Poolmath * OCLT ** Support your website if we helped you :) **

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    I would remove the eyeballs to see if some debris caught behind them that is blocking the flow.
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    1st undo the small phillips screw holding the cover on the back of the cell where the cord enters and check the direction arrow on the flow switch, it should match the arrow on the cover. If that checks out then try to fire the heater with the red flow light lit. I would think that if you had enough flow to fire the heater you should have enough flow to trigger the switch in the cell. Or if there's any way to remove the cell with it powered up you could try to trigger the flow switch manually to see if the light changes from red to green (push the stainless steel flap up against the plastic rod). There's a few videos out there on how to change out the flow switch in the Intellichlor if you determine the switch is bad.

    GL!

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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    Well when I initially blew out my return the first time the red light did come back. But the next day it was green and has stayed green ever since.

    But my chlorine is very low right now, Pump is running 12hrs. at 100% output. Pool is crystal clear.

    I am going to get a water test done tomorrow to see where my numbers are at. If they are fine then I will increase the pump time to see if that helps.

    I am just hoping that this chlorinator isn't on its way out. These suckers aren't cheap, lol.

    Anyone know what the expected life of an intellichlor is?
    Leisure Pools - Rivera (16,000 gal.)

    Pentair System: IntelliChlor IC20, Clean & Clear Plus Filter, MasterTemp 250 Gas Heater, SuperFlow Pump

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: IntelliChlor IC20 Flow problem

    It is 10,000 hours of on time. The most common reason that SWGs cannot "keep up" is because algae is growing in the water and consuming the chlorine. Another clue is that the FC level is below minimum which also allows algae to grow, FC/CYA Chart. Perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify if you have something growing in the water. If yes, then SLAM to kill it.

    You will need a good test kit to do these things. I use the TF-100 from TFTestkits.net.
    TFP Moderator
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    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

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