New Member & Test Results

[dunerb]

Great to find this site. Thank you. After testing with a cheap kit that was provided by the pool builder, I received my K2006 today and initial results are as follows.

FC= .2 ppm (seems really low?)
CC= .4 ppm
pH= 8, needed 2 drops to get to 7.4
TA= 60
CH= 130
CYA= my black dot never dissappeared, nor was the water sample cloudy after mixing w/ reagent for 30 seconds. Too low to read?

I obviously have some work to do. In what order should I knock these out?

 

[Davejavu]

Welcome to pool ownership. With a May 2016 build, I assume a fresh fill. CYA is not typically in water unless you add it. If you need CYA, you will go to Pool Math and calculate how much you need. Most people around here add it to a sock and throw that in the skimmer. It takes several days for it to dissolve.

With your SWG, you might need to turn it up. Until the FC comes up, you can add liquid chlorine to bring up the level, and then let the SWG maintain. But with 0 CYA in the high sun, the FC can burn away very fast.

You are going to want to bring your ph down a bit. You will use Muriatic Acid to do that. Pool Math will let you know how much. Read the label of the bottle to get the concentration and plug that in the the pool calculator. A STRONG word of caution...Muriatic Acid is VERY dangerous. Not to be afraid of it, but a full understanding of it is necessary. Make sure you have quality chemical gloves and eye protection. Hold it FAR away from you as the fumes can be overwhelming.

You can start with the CYA anytime. Don't add acid and chlorine closer than 30 minutes from each other.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! Great you have the K-2006. I think by your FC and CC results you are using the 25 ml to test right? Instead, do this:

Use 10ml water sample and ONE heaping scoop of powder. Mix until clear and divide result by 2. (i.e. 14 drops = FC of 7)

That will save you reagents and still provide accurate readings.

Normally we recommend a starting CYA of 70 for a SWG pool. That is as long as your fresh water is still clear with no algae. IF that's the case, increase CYA to 70.

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

FC should be about 3 ppm for day 1, then increase to about 5 ppm thereafter. Use regular bleach if needed to augment your SWG until you get it adjusted.

Nice to have you with us.

 

[dunerb]

Appreciate the quick reply and thorough advice. Out to add the CYA now.

 

[dunerb]

It's been a couple of weeks of hot weather, adding some water to the pool and finally some rain last night. I added the appropriate amount (according to the calculator) of stabilizer back on the 16th, but CYA remains stuck around 50. Alkalinity was raised to 100, but has been steady at 90 for the last week. I also put in Hardness Plus (according to calculator), but that reading remains at 330. It seems I am dumping tons of bleach on a regular basis (128 ounces) after reading of 1. ph also rises quickly to 8 after adding muriatric acid at pretty good clip (27 ounces today). Is all of this customary? I have never measured salt, but Aqualink has consistently read between 3100-3500. Thanks for the help.

 

[Texas Splash]

A couple adjustments for you:
- Don't add anything else to increase TA. The higher your TA goes, the quicker your pH will rise. In fact, if you find pH continuing to rise too fast, you'll need to lower TA by using the Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity page.
- I suspect you're losing FC quickly because that CYA is still low. Remember:

Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

Once you've verified your CYA, add more stabilizer if need to reach at least 70 ppm. That will help your SWG a bunch.
- I would not add anything else to increase CH. CH is like CYA, once it's high the only way to remove it is draining/exchanging water. If your local fill water is hard, it will increase over time.
Hope that helps.