Nature 2 for pools

Jun 13, 2016
4
toms river nj
Moderator comment: This thread is three different threads combined, so it may seem a little disjointed.


My pool is light green and I brought the chlorine level up to purple on test strips for 3 days . ph good I read that you should keep the chlorine level high But when I brought the new liner the pool store said that chlorine can ruin the liner and shorten the life of the liner.

Should I use an algaecide to get rid of the algae or continue to adding chlorine . I been running the sand filter 12 hours a day for 3 days and back washing 2x a day.

I need the pool clean for 6/18/16.
 
Re: Chorine vs. Algaecide

I've got some bad news. There is very very low chance that pool will be clear in 5 days. If you had purchased a proper test kit 2 weeks ago maybe. :(

I strongly recommend you buy one now, that way at least some of the summer is swim-able.

edit. I suppose if you rushed a test kit, did a complete dump and refill it might be possible.
 
Re: Chorine vs. Algaecide

Hello,
What you need to do is: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

You're going to fight the battle longer without a proper test kit. Run filter 24/7 till it's clear. Basically, chlorine kills algae, filter collects dead algae, and pumps circulate the water.

If you use pool math shoot for the target for shock using liquid chlorine/bleach. Right now it's going to be a craps-shot if you can get it clean in time without knowing your numbers from a reliable test kit. CYA level and FC level are required measurements. I've had a pool for 5 years now and have never used an algicide. Year round open pool in Florida.

If you want to take your pool water to a pool store to get tested, don't get "pool stored", buying 5 different chems (Phos out or such, PH up/down, or whatever chem they may be pushing (snake oil)). At a minimum, we need your CYA level, FC, CC, and PH. Don't worry about TDS or Phosphate level. If you need to buy something buy some liquid chlorine, it will get used. Avoid buying liquid CYA.
 
We do not recommend the use of mineral based systems for pool care. While the advertising says you can use "lower" amounts of chlorine, the problems with metal staining in the water are just not worth it. If you have to use chlorine anyway, why bother with the added expense of the mineral cartridges and posibility of problems with metals.
 
1. The nature 2 adds copper which will eventually stain the pool and turn hair green.
2. It is expensive. Cheaper to use bleach/liquid chlorine or a SWG.
3. The pucks you add to it will eventually overstabilize (too high of a CYA) and you will need to dump and replace water.

If you are looking for a convenient way to add chlorine, get a SWG. SWG should be 2 to 3 times the volume of your pool.

I made the mistake of having a Nature 2 installed... wouldn't have cost me much more to get a SWG. I removed the metal balls because my pool was becoming stained. Here is a thread where I removed the balls with pics so you can see the staining of the container. How to Remove Metal Balls from Nature 2 Fusion
 
Last edited:
Tom,

You posed multiple threads looking for a "magic potion". The only magic potion with pools is chlorine. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 
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